Is Iron-X really necessary?

After claying, whether or not I use IronX, I intend to polish and then apply BFWD.
 
I think clay should be used before, not after. Most of the iron will be out after clay, and the iron X will do a better job removing whatever is left. That's just me, I use the speedy prep towels so I don't have to worry about contaminating the clay...
 
Buff-N-Glo said:
I think clay should be used before, not after. Most of the iron will be out after clay, and the iron X will do a better job removing whatever is left. That's just me, I use the speedy prep towels so I don't have to worry about contaminating the clay...
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But the more contaminants the Speedy Prep towel sees, the less uses you'll get out of it in the longrun.. I did a rather large test spot on a gnarly, heavily contaminated black SUV this past weekend, and while I could've used the towel, I chose to use the clay instead. I've had a Med Grade towel clunk out on me after just 7 uses before.
 
Buff-N-Glo said:
I think clay should be used before, not after. Most of the iron will be out after clay, and the iron X will do a better job removing whatever is left. That's just me, I use the speedy prep towels so I don't have to worry about contaminating the clay...
Click to expand...


Neither Iron X or clay bar will do the job 100% on their own. When the fall out removers were acid based your were taught to use the fallout remover first and then use the clay bar. The fallout remover will eat away at the particle, but you can't assume that it will dissolve it 100%. The particle will be reduced in size and now when you clay bar there is a greater chance the clay bar will pull the particle out of the paint instead of shearing it off. That's how FK1 and Valu-Guard taught how to use their acid based ones and the reasoning for doing it in that order.

If you really want to be totally obsessive about it you would use a fallout remover, then clay bar, then apply fallout remover again. I've never gone that far as that stuff is easily the most expensive product that gets used on the car (except for coatings). And a third to half of a clay bar is pretty expensive too. When you think about it you're spending close to $20 per car to decontaminate a car when you add the fall out remover and the clay bar costs. But it would be interesting to see how much bleeding occurs on the second fallout remover application.
 
Does using Iron-x harm any protectant on the car such as sealant or wax? If I have CG wheel guard on my wheels and use Iron-x once a month will I need to reapply the wheel guard?
 
lee250 said:
Does using Iron-x harm any protectant on the car such as sealant or wax? If I have CG wheel guard on my wheels and use Iron-x once a month will I need to reapply the wheel guard?
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Just curious but why do you use iron x once a month. I got the feeling its something you use once a year. If your keeping the wheels protected with a sealant like product, wheel guard why would there be tons of iron on your wheels every month?
 
Will a solvent do a similar job? I know most big shops around here wipe the car down with a body prep solvent (or some will use an acidic wash), then clay, and then correct the paint. How is IronX or products like it different? I am not doubting the product's abilities as they have been proven time and time again, I'm just wondering how their cleaning method differs from the above methods.
 
Craig_K said:
Will a solvent do a similar job? I know most big shops around here wipe the car down with a body prep solvent (or some will use an acidic wash), then clay, and then correct the paint. How is IronX or products like it different? I am not doubting the product's abilities as they have been proven time and time again, I'm just wondering how their cleaning method differs from the above methods.
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Iron x pulls all the iron deposits in your paint and pulls them out.
 
In answer to your question should you use, Iron-X, I think it depends. Are you doing this as an enthusiast or trying to make a living? As an enthusiast you can spend all kinds of money because it's a hobby that you practice on your own car and maybe a few others- that's me and yes, I use it. If you're a professional working on daily drivers, trying to make a living- I'd say, No, because your customer probably won't care. As a number of people have mentioned, and as Mike Phillips has written on- most people don't know a swirl from a squirrel, they want a shiny car. So, it depends on your situation.- My perspective
 
SATracker said:
In answer to your question should you use, Iron-X, I think it depends. Are you doing this as an enthusiast or trying to make a living? As an enthusiast you can spend all kinds of money because it's a hobby that you practice on your own car and maybe a few others- that's me and yes, I use it. If you're a professional working on daily drivers, trying to make a living- I'd say, No, because your customer probably won't care. As a number of people have mentioned, and as Mike Phillips has written on- most people don't know a swirl from a squirrel, they want a shiny car. So, it depends on your situation.- My perspective
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The swirl and a squirrel is one of my favorites !
 
Eldorado2k said:
But the more contaminants the Speedy Prep towel sees, the less uses you'll get out of it in the longrun.. I did a rather large test spot on a gnarly, heavily contaminated black SUV this past weekend, and while I could've used the towel, I chose to use the clay instead. I've had a Med Grade towel clunk out on me after just 7 uses before.
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You know you can always clean the towels right?...
 
^Kind of. I do try to clean my mitt and it seems to help bring back the tackiness, but have you ever tried to clean one of the clay alternatives that have a light colored surface?

I also have the Optimum Opti-Clay Towel which is whitish, and it seems impossible to remove the contaminates from the surface of it.

I think these black surfaced clay alternatives are hiding a lot of the contaminates that are stuck to them.
 
I don't think so. Used it on several white cars and I never got the results I hoped for. Color never changed to purple. Just clay and you'll be good.
 
Here is a tip from the Car Pro website: "You can cover the surface with Iron X by spraying it everywhere but that can be wasteful. I recommend that you spray as needed and spread it with a small sponge or applicator to cover the entire surface. You may also consider using an atomizer type spray bottle or HVLP gun. In any case evenly cover the surfaces you wish to decontaminate. The product is strong so you don’t have to be wasteful. Just make sure it contacts the entire surface."

Using the technique of spreading the IronX with a small synthetic sponge I can get 4 midsized cars out of a 16 oz bottle with no added swirling.
 
Mantilgh said:
^Kind of. I do try to clean my mitt and it seems to help bring back the tackiness, but have you ever tried to clean one of the clay alternatives that have a light colored surface?

I also have the Optimum Opti-Clay Towel which is whitish, and it seems impossible to remove the contaminates from the surface of it.

I think these black surfaced clay alternatives are hiding a lot of the contaminates that are stuck to them.
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You can also use Muriatic acid on your towels to help dissolve the imbedded contaminants stuck in them.
 
Is it necessary? Considering that the product didn't exist however many years ago, and detailers make paint shiny back then, I'd say no. However, now that it does exist, it's just one more product that can be used to perfect/protect a vehicle's paint.
 
If my car comes wrapped from the factory I guess I'm still skeptical I need this step, but may be a good thing for the wheels before I seal them as they are probably exposed. For older cars I can see the possible necessity. An interesting topic nonetheless to keep an eye on. Will probably try this on one panel first if I purchase.
 
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