Is Klasse AIO/Sealent Still a Viable Polish?

usernamed said:
sincerely interested in what you believe are better products-nothing is going to get me away from the Twins, but I do like to learn.
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I used to use the Klasse twins back in the day, all by hand. The results were always spectacular but I've since moved on to better products. If you like the combo of a nice easy to use AIO with a solid sealant that works with the AIO, I can definitely recommend 3D Speed + 3D Poxy. The speed has really nice correction abilities and Poxy lays down a really high gloss protective layer. They both use a sealant/montan wax hybrid formula, and Speed acts as a kind of primer for Poxy. Maybe not quite as durable long-term as Klasse SG, but it is SO MUCH EASIER TO USE. Seriously, Klasse SG used to make my arms sore for days. I always had a hard time with that stuff. The 3D stuff goes on easy, you let it dry for about 30 mins, and it wipes off like nothing, even in the sun.

Alternatively, Blackfire One Step + any Blackfire sealant topper works great as well. Blackfire One Step works best with a machine in my opinion though, so if you're just using the ol' hands I think 3D would be more suitable. The One Step has some pretty amazing correction abilities as well, more so than the Speed IMO. And it is just as easy to use.
 
Desertnate said:
- Wolfgang SiO2 Paint Sealant is superior to Klasse SG and 845. It lasts as long, maybe longer than 845, looks better, and has amazing coating-like water behavior. Easy of application is amazingly simply/easy. In a class of it's own from that perspective
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Is it weird to want to top a coating off with something like the Wolfgang sealant? I had topped my CQUK with Meg's Hybrid Ceramic Wax, which was nice for about 6 months of a New England winter. It has clearly worn off now, but the properties of the coating I had applied a year ago are still looking like Day 1, for the most part.

I guess the question is, is it necessary to top a coating, or is it strictly preference? I've never really been sure, I just figured it was another layer which means added protection. But at the same time, I'm feeling like it might be unnecessary...

Side note - I used the Klasse Twins exclusively back in the day, and topped that with S100. But that was like 15 years ago LOL
 
vaca22 said:
I guess the question is, is it necessary to top a coating, or is it strictly preference? I've never really been sure, I just figured it was another layer which means added protection. But at the same time, I'm feeling like it might be unnecessary...
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Totally up to you and not necessary at all. I coated my daughter's car with CQuartz UK v2.0 around March/April of 2018. When I visited her over Memorial Day weekend, the car was still beading and sheeting like it was new. The car is a daily driver and garaged, but she only washes it about once a month-ish, so the car isn't babied. Results like that show the durability of the coating all on it's own. Another reason I don't top them is because I really like the water behavior of a good coating. I don't want to put anything on top of it which will change that behavior.

In the end, though, it's all up to you and what you want/like to do.
 
Is it fair to state that that those who have moved on from Klasse aio/sg did so because of difficulties in removing the products ?
 
usernamed said:
Is it fair to state that that those who have moved on from Klasse aio/sg did so because of difficulties in removing the products ?
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I don't recall them being difficult to remove, but maybe I didn't care at the time. I remember the bottle of SG saying that it should be applied very thinly, however...so, maybe if the application is too thick it might be a problem.
 
I don't ever recall having what I would call a problem with the Twins either, but as you I do follow the instructions on the bottles with regard to application.

As for drying time with SG, some years ago I tried letting it stand overnight and it worked very well and this is what I continue to do to this day.

I think that nearly all now wish instant gratification, wipe on/wipe off which AIO is but SG certainly is not-it requires, as all that is worth having, a bit of effort.
 
usernamed said:
Is it fair to state that that those who have moved on from Klasse aio/sg did so because of difficulties in removing the products ?
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For me it was three things all wrapped up together

- Ease of application. With Klasse, I always used the AIO and the SG together for best results. While not hard to do, put on ultra thin layers which will be easy to remove aren't exactly easy. Other products only require one application (versus 2) and are far less picky on the application amount. Removal of other items are much easier too. Klasse AIO/SG aren't bad if you apply it right, but put it on a little too thick, or let it sit a little too long and it's not easy to remove.

- I found I could apply other traditional sealants with my DA polisher. This was a game changer in terms of application speed. Some have applied the Twins with a DA, but I'm not sure I would.

- 845 at the time, and now other products have proven to be more durable with one layer than 1~2 layers of SG. I just don't have the time/motivation to do the 3+ layers some folks do.
 
I am going to try machine application of SG just to see for myself but the question is why don't I have issues with letting SG -cure- overnight or for a 13 hr period at least ?

Cannot remember if the overnight suggestion was from Klasse or a forum, autopia ??, going back quite a few years though.
 
I just saw this thread and wanted to chime in. I have never ever applied KSG with a machine but then again I have never applied an LSP with a machine, just don't see the need as you have to keep putting down the machine, picking up the machine.

I feel my application method works best and that 2nd coat 12 hrs later really nets stunning results

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Thanks for the reply do you recall where/when the extended dry time was first suggested, I had thought it was directly from Klasse or the US distributor but I am unable to locate the article.
 
usernamed said:
Thanks for the reply do you recall where/when the extended dry time was first suggested, I had thought it was directly from Klasse or the US distributor but I am unable to locate the article.
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Not sure but once the KSG dries it's a PITA to remove

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For more than a few years I have applied SG and let it sit overnight, not once have I had what -I- would think is a difficult time in removing the haze. Some report otherwise and I cannot help but thinking there is a variable though I am not smart enough to even begin to guess what it might be, other than the amount of SG applied of course.

At any rate absolutely no product could get me to switch from Klasse- ceramic, atomic or one that applies itself.....
 
usernamed said:
For more than a few years I have applied SG and let it sit overnight, not once have I had what -I- would think is a difficult time in removing the haze. Some report otherwise and I cannot help but thinking there is a variable though I am not smart enough to even begin to guess what it might be, other than the amount of SG applied of course.

At any rate absolutely no product could get me to switch from Klasse- ceramic, atomic or one that applies itself.....
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Maybe you should have my screen name

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usernamed said:
For more than a few years I have applied SG and let it sit overnight, not once have I had what -I- would think is a difficult time in removing the haze. Some report otherwise and I cannot help but thinking there is a variable though I am not smart enough to even begin to guess what it might be, other than the amount of SG applied of course.

At any rate absolutely no product could get me to switch from Klasse- ceramic, atomic or one that applies itself.....
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Have you ever tried my method

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usernamed said:
what works best for you ?
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I have a medium bowl handy with water in it and dunk a cotton or mf applicator square in there, wring it out and spray KSG into the applicator, 2x's and work a section and/or panel at a time until I think it's completely worked in. Then I grab my removal mf towel, short nap and while wet, buff off. Repeating this 12 hrs later nets incredible Gloss, like a "candy look", plus extra protection. The acrylic needs that 12 hrs to harden up.

Let me know if your going to try this, I'd be curious to hear your thoughts. I also make a detailer using KSG as well for maintence

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Tnks, I think I recall some posts from years ago about this and will look for more info, until then-what made you experiment with product application, guessing you had difficulties am curious as to exactly what happened.

How great would it be if we could get together -here- all us old timers and have a 'Klasse' reunion ? it would be especially interesting to see how many have stayed with it or moved on.

Fonzie Jumps the Shark - YouTube
 
usernamed said:
Tnks, I think I recall some posts from years ago about this and will look for more info, until then-what made you experiment with product application, guessing you had difficulties am curious as to exactly what happened.

How great would it be if we could get together -here- all us old timers and have a 'Klasse' reunion ? it would be especially interesting to see how many have stayed with it or moved on.

Fonzie Jumps the Shark - YouTube
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The place I bought detailing supplies at before I was turned onto Autogeek told me about it, so I've been doing it this way for 16 years. About 3 weeks ago I applied a coat of KSG and enjoyed the process, nice to revisit things. I've moved on from it but use it from time to time for sure, great product

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