Is PBL Diamond Paint Coating susceptible to scratching in and of itself?

Tato said:
Good question rms64.

I'm to try PBL cleansing polish over my coating (test panel first) to see if it does what stated:
.
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You do understand that cleansing polish is non abrasive and is used solely to prep the paint for the coating? Its not used to remove defects/scratches/swirls.
 
Sure, thanks for reinforcement.

I'll be using mainly for this: 'will remove staining and embedded dirt that has accumulated over time, rejuvenating the shine and boosting the impressive water-sheeting characteristics of the coating.'

That is an indication for use after the paint has been coated, and has embedded dirty and staining...

My DD looks nice coated, but I'll test how well can cleansing polish 'rejuvenates' the coating like it states.

I have PBL coating for time enough worth investing a cleansing step.

Also I'm following directions stated at product page:

'For machine application, use a foam polishing or finishing pad.'

That's what I'll be using.

Thanks for comments.

Kind Regards.
 
In some ways, I'm almost coming to the belief, that some durable natural waxes might offer better scratch resistance, at least short term, versus many sealants, and coatings. And perhaps for just day to day care.

Why? The "softness" of the product itself. Like an absorbent cushion, to withstand the rubbing, like it's a coat of "Crisco", it will take a degree of punishment, it will sacrifice itself while it remains on the surface of the paint.

I now am beginning to see a certain trend, where many here seem to love topping. I'm beginning to think one reaps the best of both worlds in the process.
 
Tato said:
Sure, thanks for reinforcement.

I'll be using mainly for this: 'will remove staining and embedded dirt that has accumulated over time, rejuvenating the shine and boosting the impressive water-sheeting characteristics of the coating.'

That is an indication for use after the paint has been coated, and has embedded dirty and staining...

My DD looks nice coated, but I'll test how well can cleansing polish 'rejuvenates' the coating like it states.

I have PBL coating for time enough worth investing a cleansing step.

Also I'm following directions stated at product page:

'For machine application, use a foam polishing or finishing pad.'

That's what I'll be using.

Thanks for comments.

Kind Regards.
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Tato, do be careful with the PBL cleansing polish. It sticks like CRAZY! We've tried it by hand then going back afterwards. Takes too long. Then by machine and working around the car. Still takes too long.

We end up now doing it by machine with a black pad, one of us putting it on while the other immediately wipes it off.

You have to take it off almost instantly or you'll end up rubbing too hard to feel comfortable on freshly corrected paint.

They may say not to use "Eraser" all by itself to clean the surface, but it'll be your best friend when cleaning up residue from the "cleansing polish". I wouldn't even THINK of doing it again without having Eraser handy. (OTOH you could do IPA but I like that Eraser has a bit of lubricity in it.)

Considering that (now) you need to "boost" the coating every 6 months then I'm sure that Eraser will never be at fault for any failure of the coating itself.
 
MarkD51 said:
In some ways, I'm almost coming to the belief, that some durable natural waxes might offer better scratch resistance, at least short term, versus many sealants, and coatings. And perhaps for just day to day care.

Why? The "softness" of the product itself. Like an absorbent cushion, to withstand the rubbing, like it's a coat of "Crisco", it will take a degree of punishment, it will sacrifice itself while it remains on the surface of the paint.

I now am beginning to see a certain trend, where many here seem to love topping. I'm beginning to think one reaps the best of both worlds in the process.
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From what I've noticed over the years is that there's hardly anything better at offering a "better window of time" to get rid of certain contaminates---like bird defecation---before they damage CC-paint, than a good carnauba-Wax.

Some will say that by layering a good carnauba-Wax over a good "acrylic-Sealant", and/or certain 'Coatings', your vehicle will enjoy all the benefits it deserves.
Now...
I wonder who it was that started this viscous-rumor?!?!


Bob
 
From experience using coatings and other items, I will try to help the OP and several other posts that mentioned sealants vs waxes etc..

1. OP--- You possibly might have gotten the straight line scratches while doing the Coating cleanser. I can say I tried it myself and ran into a ton of issues on black paint. Machine apply with black pad and immediately taken off still created faint marks. This is likely where you got them from, or when you are drying the vehicle with MF. Wash Mitts will sometimes do it too pending what type on dark cars.

2. Topping coatings--- They can be topped no problem. But remember what ever the LAST product you put on, that is the type of water effect you will get. So if you top the coating with a spray wax, you will get a wax effect on the paint not the coating. Same goes for a sealant. If you blow dry the car with the Blaster, you can see the difference clearly. Coatings-- the water will fly off and leave it dry, a wax or sealant topping it will cling in tiny droplets and it takes three times as long to get the water totally off. Thus, PBM creating the Black Label products to act like a spray detail, spray wax, or booster. They work with the coating and have similar properties as the coatings. Waxes and Sealants do not cross link so therefore they are added protection, just don't work with the products.

Give you a great example:
Car 1-- You detail and use a brand new sealant on it trying it out.
Car 2-- Same thing, your wanting to choose which one to use

Three months later the customer brings in both vehicles for a quick wash and go. Great time to check them out. After you clean the paint and go to rinse you notice Car 1 is beading and pushing water off like crazy still. Car 2 is beading ok, but not really shedding the water as much. Logic says that the sealant used on car 1 would be the better choice to use for where you live because it appears to have lasted longer. Most people would choose this and then discredit the other product to whomever they know uses it, and not recommend it to any customers again.

What you didn't know, was the customer for Car 1 just two days before and right before the rain heavily used a Spray wax he picked up from the store and didn't tell you he used it. Therefore you were seeing the effects of the Spray wax, not the superior sealant. Car 2 sealant was actually better, but you didn't see it.

This just shows how each product will overlap what the one below it does, so just be careful of the end result you want, and don't change it just to use a extra product. Make sure the products work with each other as they were manufactured to do. Ie.... Black label with Black Label are meant to work in tandem, not against.

Hope all this helps explain a few things. Coatings are a great product and help ease maintenance. Black label seems to have gotten the price per vehicle down, so now more customers or personal vehicles can be done with it for the longer protection qualities and gloss, without having to spend 400-500 for others. My personal vehicle has the other though. Worth it for me :)
 
Has anyone measure the thickness after apply the PBLSC? I am sure this is very interesting to know! Anyone please? :P
 
I really want to try this coating - I really do. But, some reviews of durability seem a bit lack luster. I was looking at a few beading sheeting videos on You Tube last night and - I don't know.

I know this is a bit off the topic - but what do users think?
 
swanicyouth said:
I really want to try this coating - I really do. But, some reviews of durability seem a bit lack luster. I was looking at a few beading sheeting videos on You Tube last night and - I don't know.

I know this is a bit off the topic - but what do users think?
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I just put it on my truck. To be honest though I haven't driven it or had it outside. Been taking the bike everywhere since we've got this good weather. Can't say on durability yet. There are a few other coating companies that say you can later their product. I think they're all pretty much the same so I layered the pbl diamond coating. It feels really slick and more so after the second coat. I want to say it was mike phillips that said he sprays it on after a few car washes to restore it. If I had to do it again. Probably go with opti coat or cquarts
 
Swanic,

I put the surface coating on the the paint, glass, and wheels the first week of January and it's still holding strong. Just rained yesterday as a matter of fact, and beading and sheeting are the same as after the first wash in January.

I did use the booster one time in late March IIRC, but I don't know if I'll use that product again as it was a streaky mess and a real bugger to get rid of the excess.
 
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