Is pre soaking ONR really necessary???

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fellipe

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Does using ONR (qd strength) to pre soak the panel really helps?

OR

People do that only for peace of mind because they believe spraying it will help 'encapsulate' the dirt particles?

I've not tried it yet, but I have the feeling that this is not necessary at all. It's just an advice that has been passed on forums...

What do you think??
 
The latter..... I tend to let any QD or Waterless dwell for around 5 seconds or so; basically when I am folding the towel and preparing it on my hand before I start wiping.
 
It helps in a sense cause the dirt/contamination particles rolls down, and drips off the panel you thus you are not dragging partials over the precious paintwork though if you use plenty of
microfiber towel in one direction(making sure to flip the towel to a clean side every time you wipe), and not letting your vehicle
get that dirty then you should be go to without presoak
 
•I think there are probably as many variations to "cleaning" vehicles...as there are the number of people that do the "cleaning".
-What's one more variation?

•If there are "cleaning"-variations---those
of which I question their necessitation:

-I don't do 'em.


Bob
 
Pre-soaking panels prior to what? One bucket rinseless?
 
I do it since it makes the towel "feel" smoother as I wipe it across the paint. Without presoaking, the towel feels like it's dragging across instead of gliding.
 
id say it would help with more liquid. when you swipe a panel only part of your cloth or sponge is going to have dirt, which means whatever moisture that was in the rag or sponge was the only moisture getting to the paint. a presoak would allow you to use more rinseless solution without having to have a sopping wet towel
 
I always pre-soak. Really bad traffic film gets PW'd off first too if the grime is really thick.

I'm just not comfortable wiping an ONR soaked towel across dirty, dry paint.

Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
 
Does snowfoaming or pre rinsing help,... It certainly won't do any more harm. Anything that is dried on, will get softer and easier to be picked up by the mitt.
I also feel the mitt gliding better on the paint.
I don't like to touch a dry, dirty surface with a towel or mitt... It won't be lubricated enough when you place the mitt down and initially start wiping
 
TurboToys said:
id say it would help with more liquid. when you swipe a panel only part of your cloth or sponge is going to have dirt, which means whatever moisture that was in the rag or sponge was the only moisture getting to the paint. a presoak would allow you to use more rinseless solution without having to have a sopping wet towel
Click to expand...

But then again, I use the Gary Dean method with a dripping soppingly wet towel and it works just fine with no drag whatsoever.

Of course, there are limits to a no-rinse wash. In the Winter you can get a coating of dried on dirt and salt. I'm not going to attack that with a simple no-rinse. I go to the "wand wash" and loosen stuff up as much as possible and then use my sopping towels.

Just my $.02 worth!
 
If you remember the basics, the answer is really simple. A cleaning process like this is all about wetting the dirt and the surface. If either is dry, the cleaning will be less effective and you will be using mechanical methods to do the job. Mechanical work plus particles means abrasion. Abrasion means damage. So the simple answer is that the wetter everything is, the better.

Personally I don't get the point of doing something like snowfoaming and then following up with ONR. Given the amount of water you are using and environmental contamination from the snowfoam, you might as well go with a full 2 bucket clean, the additional use over ONR methods is going to be negligible.
 
tedj101 said:
But then again, I use the Gary Dean method with a dripping soppingly wet towel and it works just fine with no drag whatsoever.

Of course, there are limits to a no-rinse wash. In the Winter you can get a coating of dried on dirt and salt. I'm not going to attack that with a simple no-rinse. I go to the "wand wash" and loosen stuff up as much as possible and then use my sopping towels.

Just my $.02 worth!
Click to expand...

i thought the garry dean method involved pre-spraying the panel before you go at it.... correct me if im wrong, but the videos i saw him explain that in, he pre-sprayed.
 
When I was first turned onto rinseless I never pre-soaked but as time went by and I read more, it just made more sense to me, look at it like this, when you washed the "old fashioned way" you always wet the car first, right, so there you go.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
I always power-wash for $2 prior to a RW or a WW.

After DG coating my car in April to get that self-cleaning slickness on the paint, I found that just a simple PW was sufficient to get the pollen, dust, lite dirt off. Then pat dry. Come winter that may not be sufficient.

I did try an ONR pre-soak last year but found it to be inept.
 
PiPUK said:
If you remember the basics, the answer is really simple. A cleaning process like this is all about wetting the dirt and the surface. If either is dry, the cleaning will be less effective and you will be using mechanical methods to do the job. Mechanical work plus particles means abrasion. Abrasion means damage. So the simple answer is that the wetter everything is, the better.

Personally I don't get the point of doing something like snowfoaming and then following up with ONR. Given the amount of water you are using and environmental contamination from the snowfoam, you might as well go with a full 2 bucket clean, the additional use over ONR methods is going to be negligible.
Click to expand...

I agree, if you are foaming...do a 2BM

What is the "environmental contamination" caused by SnowFoam?

Isn't it pH neutral and biodegradable?

When I wash, the water never reaches the street
Does the sunlight and other environmental factors break down the product before it could go any further?
 
Wow, I can't believe that many of you presoak. I think it's usually totally unnecessary. Though, I think it might have something to do with the wash media used. If you're just using towels, then I think it's easier to drag dirt across the paint. I use a chenille wash bone that costs 3 bucks at Walmart and it never seems to drag or slow down when moving it across paint. If my car is extra dirty, I'll use a drenched, sopping wet wash bone.

Here in Nebraska, cars get absolutely filthy in the winter. When this happens I'll go to the coin-op first, but I've washed my filthy car without in the past. Not sure if that's the best idea, but I honestly don't think it's that big of a deal.

My car is a black (non-metallic) 350z that sits low to the ground. Swirls are minimal for a DD. If you use a light polish once or twice a year, I think a panels presoak is complete unnecessary. At least on a DD. For a show car, customer vehicle I'd probably presoak.
 
Hey Stu look at it like this, the pre-wash is what your washing the car with, spraying it on helps break down the dirt and bring it to the surface instead of your wash media needing to work harder to dig it up, thus helping with creating swirls.

To take it a step further, I re-cycle my left over wash solution, using a mf towel or sock over the opening of a cat litter jug. I also wipe out the bottom of the wash solution bucket before I dump the filtered solution back in there. Sure its not enough to wash another car but when you go to make fresh solution you end up needing less, well except for when you need to fill up your pre-wash sprayer.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
StuDLei said:
Wow, I can't believe that many of you presoak. I think it's usually totally unnecessary. Though, I think it might have something to do with the wash media used. If you're just using towels, then I think it's easier to drag dirt across the paint. I use a chenille wash bone that costs 3 bucks at Walmart and it never seems to drag or slow down when moving it across paint. If my car is extra dirty, I'll use a drenched, sopping wet wash bone.

Here in Nebraska, cars get absolutely filthy in the winter. When this happens I'll go to the coin-op first, but I've washed my filthy car without in the past. Not sure if that's the best idea, but I honestly don't think it's that big of a deal.

My car is a black (non-metallic) 350z that sits low to the ground. Swirls are minimal for a DD. If you use a light polish once or twice a year, I think a panels presoak is complete unnecessary. At least on a DD. For a show car, customer vehicle I'd probably presoak.
Click to expand...

nebraska here too (omaha). and i do similar for mine in the winter. with the exception of actually washing by hand.

i'll use the touchless washes that will remove all the grime and salt (but wont be a perfect wash). or the coin wash so i can spray and clean the undercarriage with a pressure washer as well.


i have used the bone for waterless and i know what you mean, it does pick up more water and you can easily soak a panel, but you have to use more water because you could easily go through a gallon when picking water up with the bone.

if we are talking the rag method, you cant pick up at much water, so a little bit of prespray with the water you aren't using shouldn't hurt.
 
How about adding a bit of (paint safe) APC to the ONR wash bucket to increase its power?
 
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