Is Surbuff pads usable with rotary?

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If you look at the post date for the post right above your post you see it was made in September of 2010.

A little over 5 years ago.


Maybe start a new, dedicated thread.



:xyxthumbs:
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OK Mike I thought that was better to write in the same post even if it is 5 years old. The question is exactly the same... Sutbuf on rotary. But I'll start a new one if it's recommended ;-)
 
sansa said:
OK Mike I thought that was better to write in the same post even if it is 5 years old.
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Yeah nothing wrong with reviving an old thread in fact I answered a questoin about reviving an old thread and said it's perfectly fine to do.



sansa said:
The question is exactly the same... Sutbuf on rotary. But I'll start a new one if it's recommended ;-)
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Can't hurt to start a fresh thread...


Here's my take... if you're trying to remove deep or serious paint defects to the point you're asking about using a "fiber" pad on a rotary buffer why not just go big and get a high quality wool pad and get after it.



Read this article...

My recommended buffing pads for the Flex PE14



Look for this portion




Large Wool Cutting Pad

Technically the pad I'm recommending is a "finishing" pad not a "cutting" pad but here's the deal.

First - Fiber pad cut more aggressively than foam pads because each of the individual fibers that make up a wool pad are a type of abrasive in and of themselves and each fiber can and will cut the paint. So the fiber itself is a type of abrasive and this is why guys that finish out with only wool pads on rotary buffers leave holograms in their customer's paint.


Second - The difference between a wool cutting pad and a wool finishing pad is the degree of aggressiveness. In the BIG PICTURE when comparing wool pads to foam pads and in the context of using these pads on a rotary buffer, either type cutting or finishing is going to do a GREAT job of abrading or cutting the surface compared to any foam pad. This is key to doing the correction step in the fastest and most effective way.

If you work in a body shop and have to cut new paint jobs all day long every day then by all means get a wool cutting pad.

If you're detailing cars and thus not normally wetsanding the paint first, then simply by using a wool finishing pad for any heavy or major correction job, this will put you miles ahead time-wise versus using a foam cutting pad.

Plus wool pads cut cooler than foam cutting pads and this is important because it's not good to heat up clearcoat paints. Even though you might read someone on another forum say something like,

You need to heat the clearcoat up in order break down the abrasives

or

You need to heat the clearcoat up in order to re-flow the paint


Both of these statements and practices are wrong and this is called destructive paint polishing.

(See page 124 of The Complete Guide to a Show Car Finish)


So if you're mostly doing reconditioning work aka detailing cars, then you'll do fine and be safer plus be able to do any follow up polishing steps faster by sticking with the pad I recommend below instead of a full-on, hardcore wool cutting pad.


Flex recommends using 8" wool pads and smaller with the Flex PE14 so the below wool pad is perfect at 7.5" and is called the Lake Country 7.5" Electrified Sheepskin Final Polishing Pad.


Electrified?
The word electrified means Lake Country has taken the extra step to electrify the wool which removes the natural sharp barbs found in wool creating a pad that cuts fast but finishes with less scouring of the paint. This is a real benefit when buffing thin, scratch-sensitive clearcoat finishes.

Note: I see a few guys come to this forum and recommend using a brand of black wool pads so just to note, these pads have the barbs.


Link to 7.5" Electrified Wool Finishing Pad

watermark.php




but there's LOTS of info in the entire thread...



:buffing:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
First - Fiber pad cut more aggresdividual fibers that make up a wool pad are a type of abrasive in and of themselves and each fiber can and will cut the paint. So the fiber itself is a type of abrasive and this is why guys that finish out with only wool pads on rotary buffers leave holograms in their customer's paint.


Second - The difference between a wool cutting pad and a wool finishing pad is the degree of aggressiveness. In the BIG PICTURE when comparing wool pads to foam pads and in the context of using these pads on a rotary buffer, either type cutting or finishing is going to do a GREAT job of abrading or cutting the surface compared to any foam pad. This is key to doing the correction step in the fastest and most effective way.
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Wow Mike that's a great answer! I'll go with the wool then.
The fact is that I'm not a Pro so I was thinking about foam backed wool pads... I guess the fact that they're softer should forgive a lot of mistakes! But do they cut with the same power?
An example is the meguiars W4003
 
Hello guys. I wanted to show a video where it's explained an important concept about microfiber cutting pads but I can't understand if this concept could be considered also for wool pads. Larry here explains the importance of a thin pad to do its cutting job because it can be used like a "razor blade". But does wool pads have to be thin to cut well or we can consider a foamed back?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t_nh1WZ1iNI
 
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