Is there a Bubba Proof Compound and Polish?

[Jayfro]

Is there a Bubba Proof Compound and Polish?


As a thank you to one of my best friends who took me to Vegas, I plan on detailing his Black '10-'11 Audi S4 since he looks at my car and just shakes his head on how good it looks compared to his! His paint is in horrible shape, constantly going through the Tunnel of Swirls.

I'm not sure if BF One Step will have the strength to level everything out, my preference is to use One Step. My expectation, not his, isn't show car quality but little better than the daily driver finish. Being somewhat new to detailing/polishing, going to a compound is somewhat intimidating to say the least.

Once his car is finished, he's said no more auto car washes!!

My plan before starting, is to do a full wash, wheels, decontamination, then polish. Without knowing his paint but reading different reviews on AGO and other sites, the clearcoat may be harder than my acura but similar to my wife's X3 which turned out pretty good using One Step a few weeks ago.

My initial plan is using either a compound or One Step with either a White or Orange LC Pad, most likely the Orange (based on reviews online). I've seen other Audi's on AGO where they've used MF Pads to cut/level the swirls...I dont think that my skill level is there yet.

Also based on my skill level, if you think I should stick to BF One Step, I'm good with that too since I'm probably over thinking this.

Looking for a little guidance.

Thank you,
Jay

 

[vobro]

I think you need to ask if there's a bubba proof method instead of chemicals. If you use common sense techniques using a compound is no different than using BF AIO which you already have. Having said that the GG Boss system liquids are very easy to work with, no dust,long work cycles and easy wipe off. The Megs M110 and D300 also are easy to use.

Take your time, do a test spot and believe what your eyes are seeing

 

[DMiglio]

I’d try the BF One Step as it can have a good amount of cut depending on the pad. Since you’re asking about compound and polish, you may have plans for a two step process already, you could always do One Step with orange and then go back around with the white pads. Another great option locally available if you need ASAP, Meguiars Ultimate Compound would be great with orange pads and then finish with the One Step and white pads.

On a daily driver not driven by an Autogeeker, your best bet may be to do the One Step and stick a fork in it!

 

[mk9750]

I had quite a bit of luck using D300 with a fine cut Microfiber pad. Finished out very well on softer paint. Assuming your friend's Audi paint is a bit harder, you might try D300 and a medium cut microfiber pad, then the one step with a white pad if you need a second step. But as you'll read here a hundred times (or more), try a test spot with the least aggressive combo you have, and adjust to find the results you want. If you've used a DA polisher and any chemical at all, I bet you have the skill to tackle this.

Good luck! Did you win?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Pinnacle Compound
Pinnacle Polish

I've never had bad results on any paint system, hard, soft or in-between.

 

[FUNX650]

•Compound:
-Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound

•Polish(es)
-Meguiar’s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
-Meguiar’s M210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish


Bob

 

[UncleDavy]

Your machine, your pads and your technique could be more harmful than the compounds or polishes that you use. A machine that is too powerful, used incorrectly with pads that are not clean can cause a lot of damage especially to black paint.

 

[Billy Baldone]

HD One with the corresponding pads is a very easy product, tgat has given me great results.

 

[TTQ B4U]

As a thank you to one of my best friends who took me to Vegas, I plan on detailing his Black '10-'11 Audi S4 since he looks at my car and just shakes his head on how good it looks compared to his! His paint is in horrible shape, constantly going through the Tunnel of Swirls.

I'm not sure if BF One Step will have the strength to level everything out, my preference is to use One Step. My expectation, not his, isn't show car quality but little better than the daily driver finish. Being somewhat new to detailing/polishing, going to a compound is somewhat intimidating to say the least.

Once his car is finished, he's said no more auto car washes!!

My plan before starting, is to do a full wash, wheels, decontamination, then polish. Without knowing his paint but reading different reviews on AGO and other sites, the clearcoat may be harder than my acura but similar to my wife's X3 which turned out pretty good using One Step a few weeks ago.

My initial plan is using either a compound or One Step with either a White or Orange LC Pad, most likely the Orange (based on reviews online). I've seen other Audi's on AGO where they've used MF Pads to cut/level the swirls...I dont think that my skill level is there yet.

Also based on my skill level, if you think I should stick to BF One Step, I'm good with that too since I'm probably over thinking this.

Looking for a little guidance.

I need more friends like yours

In terms of products, as others have noted, the process is a bit different but there's no reason to be intimidated. Keeping it simple, compounds will cut through the swirls faster and remove deeper one better but in the end the advantage to them over a Polish or an AIO is speed and cut. The main goal of leveling out the clear coat is to do so with the least amount removed as necessary. You can remove xxx microns of clear with far less passes using a compound then a polish than a polish or all in one alone. Make sense?

That said, I've owned a gorgous S4 in Pure Black and can tell you the paint is rather hard so while and AIO will work and as you noted, get you to where it's better than the average daily driver....likely lots better, a compound and polish combined will be just a little more time involved but given you said his paint is "horrible" it may be the route to go. Nothing wrong with doing a test panel with an AIO and see where you get.

Here are a couple links to the few I've done lately including mine.

Mine
Customer 1
Customer 2

Both of these were what I call average, not "horrible" and polished out with an AIO. Both were done with GYEON's Primer as they both ended up with Syncro as the coating.

Mine was initially polished out with Meg's Ultimate Compound then Polish but I refined it with CarPro Essence and it eventually wore a couple different coatings.

Good luck. Looking forward to seeing the results!

 

[Jayfro]

I think you need to ask if there's a bubba proof method instead of chemicals. If you use common sense techniques using a compound is no different than using BF AIO which you already have. Having said that the GG Boss system liquids are very easy to work with, no dust,long work cycles and easy wipe off. The Megs M110 and D300 also are easy to use.

Take your time, do a test spot and believe what your eyes are seeing

Without a doubt, firm believer in test spots!!
Thank you

I’d try the BF One Step as it can have a good amount of cut depending on the pad. Since you’re asking about compound and polish, you may have plans for a two step process already, you could always do One Step with orange and then go back around with the white pads. Another great option locally available if you need ASAP, Meguiars Ultimate Compound would be great with orange pads and then finish with the One Step and white pads.

On a daily driver not driven by an Autogeeker, your best bet may be to do the One Step and stick a fork in it!

I'm starting to lean that way, I may try One Step on my daughters boyfriend Mercedes to see how it finishes out on the harder paints and my wifes X3 just to get a feel for what it can do.

I had quite a bit of luck using D300 with a fine cut Microfiber pad. Finished out very well on softer paint. Assuming your friend's Audi paint is a bit harder, you might try D300 and a medium cut microfiber pad, then the one step with a white pad if you need a second step. But as you'll read here a hundred times (or more), try a test spot with the least aggressive combo you have, and adjust to find the results you want. If you've used a DA polisher and any chemical at all, I bet you have the skill to tackle this.

Good luck! Did you win?

Thank you....I'm very intimidated by the Microfiber Pads, not sure why, but I've never tried them, only LC Foam Pads. I may have to order one or two to test out, do you have a recommendation on what to try?

Pinnacle Compound
Pinnacle Polish

I've never had bad results on any paint system, hard, soft or in-between.

Thank you very much sir....is that the standard Pinnacle or Black Label?

I need more friends like yours

In terms of products, as others have noted, the process is a bit different but there's no reason to be intimidated. Keeping it simple, compounds will cut through the swirls faster and remove deeper one better but in the end the advantage to them over a Polish or an AIO is speed and cut. The main goal of leveling out the clear coat is to do so with the least amount removed as necessary. You can remove xxx microns of clear with far less passes using a compound then a polish than a polish or all in one alone. Make sense?

That said, I've owned a gorgous S4 in Pure Black and can tell you the paint is rather hard so while and AIO will work and as you noted, get you to where it's better than the average daily driver....likely lots better, a compound and polish combined will be just a little more time involved but given you said his paint is "horrible" it may be the route to go. Nothing wrong with doing a test panel with an AIO and see where you get.

Here are a couple links to the few I've done lately including mine.

Mine
Customer 1
Customer 2

Both of these were what I call average, not "horrible" and polished out with an AIO. Both were done with GYEON's Primer as they both ended up with Syncro as the coating.

Mine was initially polished out with Meg's Ultimate Compound then Polish but I refined it with CarPro Essence and it eventually wore a couple different coatings.



Good luck. Looking forward to seeing the results!

Yes, makes sense. Question, since it cuts faster, would this mean less passes with the compound (generally speaking)? When applying Compound (again generally speaking), is arm speed faster/slower/same as applying an AIO? Also, using a Compound, do I need to use a LC Orange Pad or something less abrasive? I know test passes...but just trying to get a rough idea?

I may actually start this weekend on his car with just washing and decon, just getting it ready to buff in the coming week(s). This will reduce the amount of time working at his house...and keeping the wife (one that must be obeyed) a little happier!

All I can say is WOW, my jaw hit the ground when i saw the first picture of the black S4!!!

Thank you very much for all of the info!!

Jay

 

[vobro]

The issue with black that is hammered is if you just use a polish most likely it'll add gloss and remove swirls but still leaves the deeper scratches. When the swirls are removed a lot of times scratches that were covered by the lighter swirls seem like they magically appear and they stand out more than before. This hobby always leads to wanting more so just get some compound and some cutting pads and give it a go. There's nothing worse than working all day and then walking away with the thought of "I should have did this instead"

 

[Jayfro]

Thanks for the info, I was always planning to use a Compound initially or an AIO, not just the Polish...waste of time on that car!

 

[TTQ B4U]

Yes, makes sense. Question, since it cuts faster, would this mean less passes with the compound (generally speaking)? When applying Compound (again generally speaking), is arm speed faster/slower/same as applying an AIO? Also, using a Compound, do I need to use a LC Orange Pad or something less abrasive? I know test passes...but just trying to get a rough idea?

IMO, I try and stay at 1 second per inch arm movement for either. That to me allows for good solid correction time on both my Flex and Mille Units. The differences in my packages offered very by the amount of correction we're targeting thus that will vary based on how many passes I make.

Here's an example of a before and after using CarPro ClearCut with a purple wool pad on Flex unit. I can't recall exactly how many passes but likely 3-4 max. I followed it up after with 1-2 passes at slightly faster arm speed with CarPro Essence. Super fast time savings with these products involved.

Different panels shown here but you get the idea of before/after:

^^ that's just compounded not polished.


I may actually start this weekend on his car with just washing and decon, just getting it ready to buff in the coming week(s). This will reduce the amount of time working at his house...and keeping the wife (one that must be obeyed) a little happier!

All I can say is WOW, my jaw hit the ground when i saw the first picture of the black S4!!!

Thanks. Here's a reflection off the drivers door :xyxthumbs:

 

[Jayfro]

Very nice....looks outstanding! Thank you for letting me know your process, it helps me tremendously!

Jay

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thank you very much sir....is that the standard Pinnacle or Black Label?

Jay

Pinnacle Natural Brilliance


This is basecoat/clearcoat and I found the paint to be more on the hard side than the soft side. I sanded and then cut the air scoops. For the rest of the paint I cut her hard using the Cordless BEAST with the Pinnacle ADvanced Compound and then polished using the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish. Works on any paint that I've worked on. Custom paint like this old 2-door Dodge or factory paints.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I had a 1965 Corvette Stingray for one of my classes here at Autogeek. The class buffed out the car but I buffed out the top.

The problem was the Plexiglas back window looked like it was washed with steel wool.

You need to read the article to see what I say about Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish as compared to a lot of other paint and plastic polishes I tried. Like most of my articles and replies on this forum it's very detailed with pictures that never disappear.


Polishing Plexiglas to be as clear as glass using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish

It's expensive but it's bubba proof.


I also show the Pinnacle products in all my classes. At my last class in Texas, the first two cars my class learned on were black Corvettes. Some of these people had never machine polished before in their lives. Here's the two Corvettes...


10 cars detailed in 2 days! Texas Roadshow Detailing Class!



Think about it? How can 10 cars get detailed in 2 days?

Easy - NO SITTING. All hands-on learning. YOU are on your feet because you are doing the work.



1961 Corvette

2011 Corvette

For me to turn 16 people loose on OTHER PEOPLE'S Cars, black cars no less and one of them what most of you would consider kind of cool, at least for a "Training Car". The results were nothing short of perfect.

 

[Belo]

Consider maybe using HD-One and change pads as needed. Then follow up with a spray on sealant to save yourself the "second step". My sister has a horribly abused car as well and this is my plan for her if I ever get to it. I can't justify a 2 step but know that correction is where the work is needed the most. And then maybe in a few months an aio for longer protection.

 

[Jayfro]

I had a 1965 Corvette Stingray for one of my classes here at Autogeek. The class buffed out the car but I buffed out the top.

The problem was the Plexiglas back window looked like it was washed with steel wool.

You need to read the article to see what I say about Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish as compared to a lot of other paint and plastic polishes I tried. Like most of my articles and replies on this forum it's very detailed with pictures that never disappear.


Polishing Plexiglas to be as clear as glass using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish

It's expensive but it's bubba proof.


I also show the Pinnacle products in all my classes. At my last class in Texas, the first two cars my class learned on were black Corvettes. Some of these people had never machine polished before in their lives. Here's the two Corvettes...


10 cars detailed in 2 days! Texas Roadshow Detailing Class!



Think about it? How can 10 cars get detailed in 2 days?

Easy - NO SITTING. All hands-on learning. YOU are on your feet because you are doing the work.



1961 Corvette

2011 Corvette

For me to turn 16 people loose on OTHER PEOPLE'S Cars, black cars no less and one of them what most of you would consider kind of cool, at least for a "Training Car". The results were nothing short of perfect.

Thank you very much Mike. It's expensive but considering he paid for the flight and a couple of rounds of golf in Vegas (which aint cheap!), it's a drop in the bucket!!

Jay

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thank you very much Mike.

It's expensive but considering he paid for the flight and a couple of rounds of golf in Vegas (which aint cheap!), it's a drop in the bucket!!

Jay

Don't perceive this as a hard sell, that's not me. But from experience (years ago), the value of never having to do a job a second time because the abrasive technology didn't work.

You experienced this already with the AIO that micro-marred the heck out of your car's paint. I asked you to trust me, you did. I sent you a product that uses great abrasive technology and un-did the damage the other product inflicted into your car's already factory thin paint. You basically did that car twice.


Forget the cost of the first AIO you used - what's your time worth?


Besides the above, the Pinnacle products aren't any more expensive than 3M products and none of the 3M products on the below page actually state they can be used with orbital polishers. 3M doesn't make orbital products.

3M Rubbing Compounds and Polishes


Just perspective and context.

 

[swanicyouth]

Some of the most user friendly polishes are rarely discussed here if ever. They are the Optimum line of traditional & spray polishes.

The regular polishes do no gum up or dust & have an almost endless work time (Compound, Finish, & Polish II.) they are also cheap in the $12 range for a small bottle if I recall. They are easy wipe off & SMAT - so can do as many passes as needed. They don’t cut as fast as DAT polishes; but cut well and are idiot proof.

They are excellent with large throw machines, because whatever carrier they use doesn’t dust, dry, or gum up. Plus they are not a PIA to clean out of pads.