Is this bad?

06CivicSi

06CivicSi

New member
Joined
Jul 22, 2006
Messages
165
Reaction score
0
yesterday was my first experience using the pc... i started with the edge orange pad and xmt2 and i didnt really see an improvement but i think i was going to fast with too little pressure. so i tried xmt 3 with yellow. i thought it was the next cut to orange but come to find out it wasnt. i got all the marring from that out but did i shave off a good bit of clear coat?:confused:
also when i went back with xmt 1 i couldnt get rid of some very fine marring. what do i do. sorry i dont have any pics of it. color is black.
 
06CivicSi said:
did i shave off a good bit of clear coat?:confused:
Click to expand...
No, I don't think you did.

"also when i went back with xmt 1 i couldnt get rid of some very fine marring"
What pad did you used?
 
Did you try the XMT2 to remove the marring? You may have to step it down from 3 to 2 to 1 and like Sparkie asked what pad did you use? You may need a pad with more cutting power and then you could remove the marring with the XMT1. Mike...
 
after the 3 and yellow i went with 2 and orange and then 1 with white...
 
Work the product on AVERAGE for 5 minutes, and apply pressure until the head stops spinning. When this happens, gently lift off, and continue using that pressure.

Lots of pressure and SLOW movement is the key to success! :awesome:




-Nick
5-Star Auto Detailing
 
thank you. i will try that next weekend. i didnt think it was going to ware me out this bad. i was expecting to be tired but not sore. i guess i will get used to it. thanks once again.
 
Maybe try the blue or orange pad with the XMT1. I use the LC pads and PB SSR1, 2.5, 3 and what I do to save time and products some times is on the final pass with PB ssr2.5 and a orange LC pad I move the PC a little faster and with no pressure applied. This technique makes the brokedown 2.5 act as a polish so that I really dont have to use the next step in polish. Mike...
 
06CivicSi said:
thank you. i will try that next weekend. i didnt think it was going to ware me out this bad. i was expecting to be tired but not sore. i guess i will get used to it. thanks once again.
Click to expand...

Get a chair, and sit down. Depending on condition of paint, it can be 3-6+ hours to work on paint. This is the best part about working on a car. The results when finished are worthless.
 
nick19 said:
Work the product on AVERAGE for 5 minutes, and apply pressure until the head stops spinning. When this happens, gently lift off, and continue using that pressure.

Lots of pressure and SLOW movement is the key to success! :awesome:




-Nick
5-Star Auto Detailing
Click to expand...

:iagree: The marring you experienced is from using an abrasive combination yes, but if the polish is not given enough time to properly break down, the abrasives will not have diminshed sufficiently and will contribute marring. I suggest going over it again with the blue pad and the XMT 2, working it in for 5 minutes once you kick it up to 5. After that go over it again with the XMT 1 or the XMT carnauba finishing glaze and the white pad. If the XMT1 work again for 5 minutes on speed 5. If the carnauba finishing glaze, no need to break down, just spread it evenly on speed 4 until it is transluscent and then buff off with a quality MF. After this you should be golden. :)
 
06CivicSi said:
even on black?
Click to expand...


Black is usually easier to work on, but harder to make perfect. If that makes any sense.

Where as white is harder to work on, but easier to make perfect.

Black paint is usually softer, and easier to fix, but marring and swirl trails are more common on black. And thus require additional steps to make perfect. If you're careful, you could skip #2 usually if you use #3. You could go from #3 to #1 or even in some cases, skip #1. It all depends on your skill.

I don't personally use XMT BTW.



-Nick
5-Star Auto Detailing
 
Remember if you use XMT finishing glaze, not to use a sealant, as there will be bonding issues. DP's finishing glaze is the only "glaze" I know you can add a sealant to without bonding issues.





-Nick :cheers:
5-Star Auto Detailing
 
Strokin04 said:
Which system do you use Nick? Mike...
Click to expand...

OC/OP/DP Super Swirl, Mild Swirl, Finishing Glaze.


OC for severe, followed up by Mild or OP, and topped with DP's FG, sealant, then wax.

Or Super, mild/op, topped with DP's FG, sealant, wax.

Depends on sun or not. With this system, there has yet to be a swirl I couldn't get out. Even some orange peel, and wet sanding I can get out with a PC. (I also use speed 6 on the PC)



-Nick
5-Star Auto Detailing
 
nick19 said:
Remember if you use XMT finishing glaze, not to use a sealant, as there will be bonding issues. DP's finishing glaze is the only "glaze" I know you can add a sealant to without bonding issues.





-Nick :cheers:
5-Star Auto Detailing
Click to expand...


Did you mean DP's finishing polish or WG's finishing glaze? Not to split hairs, but we have a lot of newcomers to the site and I want to eliminate any confusion.


Yes the DP finishing polish can be followed by DP's sealant. WG's finishing glaze can also be followed with a sealant as well as VMG and RMG. But the XMT must be followed with a carnauba only. :)
 
FloridaNative said:
Did you mean DP's finishing polish or WG's finishing glaze? Not to split hairs, but we have a lot of newcomers to the site and I want to eliminate any confusion.


Yes the DP finishing polish can be followed by DP's sealant. WG's finishing glaze can also be followed with a sealant as well as VMG and RMG. But the XMT must be followed with a carnauba only. :)
Click to expand...


DP's FG, I'm sorry.

Mike, OC/OC works wonders in the sun, and does DP, but OC/OP works a little better. DP is MUCH better in the garage. I have used DP in the shade though without any problems.
 
nick19 said:
DP's FG, I'm sorry.

Mike, OC/OC works wonders in the sun, and does DP, but OC/OP works a little better. DP is MUCH better in the garage. I have used DP in the shade though without any problems.
Click to expand...

This good to know because in Oklahoma the sun is a real pain in the a** when trying to detail a car. Mike...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top