Is Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant supposed to not to be smooth to the touch?

Yeah, as it stands the hood has just been washed, clayed, and re-applied with sealant. After washing, the hood was much smoother than it was prior; the micro fiber doesn't snag when rubbing it over the area that was bad prior. I still did the baggie test and it could use some claying so I re-clayed the area. I then applied a very thin coat of WDGS and let it sit for about fifteen mins; someone had recommended that. Buffed it off and it is very smooth. Last time it looked good afterwards but the next day was when it broke out. I may just let the car sit in the garage for a day and see how it looks tomorrow. I'll probably hold off doing the entire vehicle until I know for sure.

While I have you - how much sealant is recommend to apply? Someone mentioned 1/2 ounce for an entire vehicle. Seems very lean.

Ed
 
eyost said:
Yeah, as it stands the hood has just been washed, clayed, and re-applied with sealant. After washing, the hood was much smoother than it was prior; the micro fiber doesn't snag when rubbing it over the area that was bad prior. I still did the baggie test and it could use some claying so I re-clayed the area. I then applied a very thin coat of WDGS and let it sit for about fifteen mins; someone had recommended that. Buffed it off and it is very smooth. Last time it looked good afterwards but the next day was when it broke out. I may just let the car sit in the garage for a day and see how it looks tomorrow. I'll probably hold off doing the entire vehicle until I know for sure.

While I have you - how much sealant is recommend to apply? Someone mentioned 1/2 ounce for an entire vehicle. Seems very lean.

Ed
Click to expand...

Seems how that someone was Mike P I would have to say that is accurate information.
 
Well if you have automatic door opener, it may have caused some dust, dirt and even some termite dust on your car every time it opens and closes. I know when I did mine and let it sit over night before I put wax on it I took a bed sheet and hung it over the car to make sure no dust got on it so I could go right to waxing without doing a wash again.
 
With most sealants and waxes, you want it so thin, you can barely see a thin film left behind your applicator pad. You mention you used 2 pea sized drops for the hood, but you used way more than 1/2 ounce for the entire car. If you used 2 pea sized drops for every panel, that's about 20 pea sized drops over the entire car, which I think would be roughly 1/2 ounce.

The paint definitely shouldn't be rough or grabby after it cures. I'd personally choose one panel and start over, but without the cleansing lotion. Clay bar the entire panel until it's 'baggy test' smooth. Dry it thoroughly and apply a whisper thin coat of your sealant. You can always do the swipe test to see if it's cured. Wait 15 minutes and swipe your finger across a little bit of that panel. If that swiped area looks streaky, you need to wait longer. If you clearly see paint and no streaks, you can remove the sealant.

I tend not to overanalyze things like this. The car is almost brand new. I think you probably just applied it a little too thick and possibly didn't fully remove the product after it hazed, causing some high spots which maybe gummed up a little after 24 hours. With lighter colored paint, it's sometimes difficult to see what you're applying and what you're removing. But if you apply it thin, you shouldn't have any issues with wiping it right off. Good luck.
 
tach18k said:
Well if you have automatic door opener, it may have caused some dust, dirt and even some termite dust on your car every time it opens and closes. I know when I did mine and let it sit over night before I put wax on it I took a bed sheet and hung it over the car to make sure no dust got on it so I could go right to waxing without doing a wash again.
Click to expand...

I thing you're dead on there; but let's not use the word termite dust - eeh gadz.:o I think I will try your method with the bed sheet over the area I just treated.
 
eyost said:
Yeah, as it stands the hood has just been washed, clayed, and re-applied with sealant. After washing, the hood was much smoother than it was prior; the micro fiber doesn't snag when rubbing it over the area that was bad prior. I still did the baggie test and it could use some claying so I re-clayed the area. I then applied a very thin coat of WDGS and let it sit for about fifteen mins; someone had recommended that. Buffed it off and it is very smooth. Last time it looked good afterwards but the next day was when it broke out. I may just let the car sit in the garage for a day and see how it looks tomorrow. I'll probably hold off doing the entire vehicle until I know for sure.

While I have you - how much sealant is recommend to apply? Someone mentioned 1/2 ounce for an entire vehicle. Seems very lean.

Ed
Click to expand...

I mentioned that and it was just from my experience using those 2 ounce AG sample bottles, where its easy to see how much you use. I place way too many AG orders, as I've never had to pay for WGDGPS - 2 ounce samples are great. And easy to carry.
 
Eyost-

After reading this whole thread i began thinking that you may not have been using enough clay lubricant when you were claying your car.

I believe you are doing something wrong with the claying process. here are a few tips:
1. use lots of clay lubricant
2. Clay bar one section of the car at a time
3. Wipe the clayed section off with a clean microfiber
4. after claying a section do the baggie test.
(doing a baggie test will give you a good idea of how much contamination is still on your car. it will not get worse unless you have the car in a contaminated working area)
5. clay again if need be
6. machine polish with DA
7. seal or apply wax to a contamination free painted surface

Using this method you will not have any problem with a rough surface the next day. Again the only way that the car will feel rough is if you put the car in a contaminated area, or you did not complete one of these steps correctly. Hope this helps.
 
Bodedetailing said:
Eyost-

After reading this whole thread i began thinking that you may not have been using enough clay lubricant when you were claying your car.

I believe you are doing something wrong with the claying process. here are a few tips:
1. use lots of clay lubricant
2. Clay bar one section of the car at a time
3. Wipe the clayed section off with a clean microfiber
4. after claying a section do the baggie test.
(doing a baggie test will give you a good idea of how much contamination is still on your car. it will not get worse unless you have the car in a contaminated working area)
5. clay again if need be
6. machine polish with DA
7. seal or apply wax to a contamination free painted surface

Using this method you will not have any problem with a rough surface the next day. Again the only way that the car will feel rough is if you put the car in a contaminated area, or you did not complete one of these steps correctly. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. When claying I misted the car with lubricant which allowed the bar to slide effortlessly. I would do about a 2 x 2 foot area, dry and check for smoothness. What I failed to do was the baggie test. This afternoon, I repeated the process on the hood and this time I did the Baggie test prior to applying the sealant. Differenc is I used a very small amount of sealant. In what I am seeing I have a feeling I either out down to heavy of a coat of sealant and or let it stay on the car too long. Washing the car cleared it up; in fact most of the bumps that I felt could actually be removed with my fingernail. I'm learning what to do but more importantly what not do.

Big test is to see how it feels tomorrow. Right now it is sheltered in the garage curing.

Thanks for the suggestions and advice.
 
Why do you let it cure for so long? Is that what the instructions say to do?
 
Rule of thumb once an LSP hazes or drys it's ready for removal. Use the swipe test to determine removal.
Me personally I apply to horizontal panels, hood/roof/trunk and then remove in same order, then one side apply and remove then the other. Seems to setup and haze in that fashion for me.
I think it was combo of not quite claying well enough and too much lsp. If you think it's too thinly applied it's probably enough and yes a 16 OZ bottle of sealant will last a really long time if youare only doing one car two or three times a year.
Good luck and good for you learning about proper care.
 
bobble said:
Good luck and good for you learning about proper care.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have learned a fair amount in a coupled of days. I guess I am used to the old low quality wax and am now experiencing the good stuff.

Tomorrow, I start my wife's 11 year old Isuzu Rodeo; this next project will benefit from my learning on my car.

The Rodeo needs a lot more work due to its age and being neglected. It has never been polished or waxed. After a good wash and claying, do you think I would be best to apply the Pinnacle cleansing lotion and then follow it up with the WDGS? There are no swirls in the paint; kinda amazing given the age.

If so, what would the dose recommendation be for applying it with a DA machine? The website said to lay down a circle of product on the pad, but I have recently learned that this may not be the best.

Thanks,

Ed
 
Y2KSVT said:
With most sealants and waxes, you want it so thin, you can barely see a thin film left behind your applicator pad. You mention you used 2 pea sized drops for the hood, but you used way more than 1/2 ounce for the entire car. If you used 2 pea sized drops for every panel, that's about 20 pea sized drops over the entire car, which I think would be roughly 1/2 ounce.

The paint definitely shouldn't be rough or grabby after it cures. I'd personally choose one panel and start over, but without the cleansing lotion. Clay bar the entire panel until it's 'baggy test' smooth. Dry it thoroughly and apply a whisper thin coat of your sealant. You can always do the swipe test to see if it's cured. Wait 15 minutes and swipe your finger across a little bit of that panel. If that swiped area looks streaky, you need to wait longer. If you clearly see paint and no streaks, you can remove the sealant.

I tend not to overanalyze things like this. The car is almost brand new. I think you probably just applied it a little too thick and possibly didn't fully remove the product after it hazed, causing some high spots which maybe gummed up a little after 24 hours. With lighter colored paint, it's sometimes difficult to see what you're applying and what you're removing. But if you apply it thin, you shouldn't have any issues with wiping it right off. Good luck.
Click to expand...
I seem to recall Mike Phillips saying that you should wait 45 minutes for WDGSPS to cure in the video. 15 minutes did not give me the slickness. I was disappointed. However, after 45 minutes, it was very slick, deep and rich.
 
Re: UPDATE Is Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant supposed to not to be smooth to the touch?

Hi all,

Figured I would give everyone and update to my first experience with WGDGS.

Evidently, where I park at work has some fallout that puts these bumps on the surface. Last week I noticed that the surface started having the same bumps. Car needed washing so I went ahead and washed it and noticed that after drying it the paint is now smooth as glass. Boy was it easy to wash to!

So the good news is that the sealant is not causing the issue. Bad news is that I probably won't get the covered and secured parking that I have requested. :laughing:

Thanks everyone and I am impressed with the sealant!
 
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