Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)

Here's another question about when to do an IPA wipedown...I have a flex 3401 that came with a WG kit. I know that you should wipe after the TSR, but do you also apply the FG, then do another wipedown with IPA, then apply the DGPS? Just wondering, so I don't miss an important step...:)
 
spike said:
Here's another question about when to do an IPA wipe-down...I have a flex 3401 that came with a WG kit. I know that you should wipe after the TSR, but do you also apply the FG, then do another wipedown with IPA, then apply the DGPS? Just wondering, so I don't miss an important step...:)
Click to expand...

Whether or not you wipe down the entire finish using IPA or any chemical stripper is really personal preference.

If you want to make sure you've removed all the target defects on each panel then you can chemically strip the paint and inspect.


:)
 
arkus said:
Is there any place who sells rubbing alcohol in a large container . The drug stores only have small little bottles . ??
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Its a long shot for most people but if you know any wholesale nail supply shop they sell IPA buy the gallons or cases(4gals). Thats where I purchase mines.
 
spike said:
Here's another question about when to do an IPA wipedown...I have a flex 3401 that came with a WG kit. I know that you should wipe after the TSR, but do you also apply the FG, then do another wipedown with IPA, then apply the DGPS? Just wondering, so I don't miss an important step...:)
Click to expand...


I am drowning in abbreviations here, but I may be asking the same question as a person above.

Just before the sealant, I apply paint cleanser, which in my case is normally of the same brand as a sealer, e.g. I use 4start paint cleanser followed by 4start UPP sealer.

The cleansers usually say "..promote subsequent sealer adhesion" or something to that effect.

So if I do and IPA wipedown after cleanser don't I just remove any bonding agents that the sealer benefits from?



So I polish the paint and then do IPA wipedown, then poli
 
vash68 said:
I am drowning in abbreviations here, but I may be asking the same question as a person above.

Just before the sealant, I apply paint cleanser, which in my case is normally of the same brand as a sealer, e.g. I use 4start paint cleanser followed by 4start UPP sealer.

The cleansers usually say "..promote subsequent sealer adhesion" or something to that effect.

So if I do and IPA wipedown after cleanser don't I just remove any bonding agents that the sealer benefits from?



So I polish the paint and then do IPA wipedown, then poli
Click to expand...


Since this is your first post; :welcome: To Autogeek Online!!

Paint cleaners are important as they remove surface contaminates, residual waxes, and other non friendly "stuff" that could interfere with the bonding of a sealant or wax.


The term; "promote subsequent sealer adhesion' is a fancy way of saying cleaning. I do not believe that a paint cleaner leaves behind a "primer" of sorts to aid in adhesion of a subsequent product other than provide a clean surface.

An Isopropyl Alcohol wipe is a mixture of water and Isopropyl Alcohol which cleans up any remaining contaminants. Some use it while others don't, it's more of a personal preference.

Personally, I prefer Mineral Spirits as it seems to do a better job.

Isopropyl Alcohol: Its uses and dilutions

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html

Basic Process Steps in Order


  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction
    • Compound
    • Polish
    • Cleaner
  • Mineral Spirits or IPA wipe-down
  • Sealant
  • Wax
 
I use on cuts and gouges...pretty much any injury that bleeds.

I use it when painting/wetsanding. Lots of misc. cleanup not relating to detailing.

I also use it to clean up WD-40 (When I work on my Bronco II, I often use WD-40 to dissolve old adhesive.)
 
To clean trim also. I've used it. It takes a lot of elbow grease to cut through oxidized trim, but it does work. Below is a copied example from BW:


Directions: Wipe trim with a 50/50 solution of alcohol and water or a prep cleaner such as Pre-WOW. Apply a drop of Black Wow to the foam applicator and massage into the trim. After all trim is treated, wipe with a dry, lint-free cloth to remove any excess product. Detailing trick: Now go back and wipe the trim with a damp cloth or sponge. This will insure a uniform, rich luster.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but IPA will also remove sealants/wax's aswell?

Oh and my choice of sealant would be WDGS 3.0 and for wax atm its Naviwax gives a really good depth and super tight beading and will last around 9weeks
 
For me, detailing is a hobby. In my field the priority is "First do no harm". The Phillips' article Bobby referenced is a sobering eye-opener as far as the potential damage to paint from IPA. As Remo in the movie Casino said to the other mob bosses in the courtroom's meeting room, "Why take the chance? At least that's the way I feel about it."
 
BobbyG said:
Since this is your first post; :welcome: To Autogeek Online!!

Paint cleaners are important as they remove surface contaminates, residual waxes, and other non friendly "stuff" that could interfere with the bonding of a sealant or wax.


The term; "promote subsequent sealer adhesion' is a fancy way of saying cleaning. I do not believe that a paint cleaner leaves behind a "primer" of sorts to aid in adhesion of a subsequent product other than provide a clean surface.

An Isopropyl Alcohol wipe is a mixture of water and Isopropyl Alcohol which cleans up any remaining contaminants. Some use it while others don't, it's more of a personal preference.

Personally, I prefer Mineral Spirits as it seems to do a better job.

Isopropyl Alcohol: Its uses and dilutions

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html

Basic Process Steps in Order


  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction
    • Compound
    • Polish
    • Cleaner
  • Mineral Spirits or IPA wipe-down
  • Sealant
  • Wax
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for clearing this up Bobby! :props::props:
 
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