Issue with ech2o and reload as drying aid

I find ECH2O very streaky, to the point that I've stopped using it. I have had better results with Reload when applying by spraying on the high pile side of an MF towel, applying it to the vehicle using the towel, then buffing off the with the pile side.

If you are looking for a drying aid that's hydrophobic and doesn't streak, I've found Chemical Guys After Wash to work well. If you're looking for a quick detailer that doesn't streak at all, I have found 3D HD Touch to be totally streak-free.

Try mixing them. Grab some distilled water and a 32 oz spray bottle. Mix up ECH20 at 1:20 ratio, add 27oz to the bottle, then add 3oz of Reload. Shake well before each use and as you go.

Dampen a nice soft drying rag say 16x16 in size with your favorite rinseless wash solution. Then spritz that rag with the above "blue juice" mixture of detail spray and wipe. Product should go on damp but then should quickly fade to a streak free hydrophobic finish. You can buff with a clean dry rag if needed but if done properly you won't need to.

Here's my car from having done this after a rinseless wash just last night.

original.jpg
 
I find ECH2O very streaky, to the point that I've stopped using it. I have had better results with Reload when applying by spraying on the high pile side of an MF towel, applying it to the vehicle using the towel, then buffing off the with the pile side.

If you are looking for a drying aid that's hydrophobic and doesn't streak, I've found Chemical Guys After Wash to work well. If you're looking for a quick detailer that doesn't streak at all, I have found 3D HD Touch to be totally streak-free.

I’ve had lots better luck with ech2o as a rinse-less wash. No streaking there and great lubricity. Mixed 1:200. Reload after.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Hi!! May i use Eh2o as drying aid after washing my car and in what dilution rate?
Thank you !! :)
 
Hi!! May i use Eh2o as drying aid after washing my car and in what dilution rate?
Thank you !! :)

Yes, works fine. Start with 1:20 and vary a little from there if you want but that ratio seems to work pretty well.
 
Yes, works fine. Start with 1:20 and vary a little from there if you want but that ratio seems to work pretty well.
Thank you BSoares for your help. The dillution rate you sugest me 1:20 is perfect!! And the result amazing!!
 
I have never used the combination of products you are using, but any spray sealant should be able to do a good job.

So what I do is this:

1. Get my drying microfiber wet. Then ring it out as much as possible. Dry microfibers don't absob well, but damp ones are like water magnets.
2. Fold the microfiber in 4s
3. Do 2 sprays of the sealant on the microfiber directly, not on the paint.
4. Wipe the panel until I see no water spots, only fine water lines
5. Use a second, dry microfiber towel on the flat side (where there is no pile) to buff slightly the panel

I have tried this with different products like Meg's D156, Reload, and even low quality car wash type spray wax and it gave me good results no matter what.


My man here gave the best advice, and is universal with almost every product!
 
Not the safest way to blow air either.. Would you want to blow air onto your paint at high velocity through your dirty shop vac hose? Me neither.

Old message but I just saw it ;)

When I started in 2013 I thought about using my Rigid Propack as a blower to dry car. So I put the how on the exaust and put my hand in front of the air flow to see if there would be any issue. Pretty much a mini sand blaster ;) Needless to say I did not use it on a car LOL.

On the other hand, if you had a brand new one it would work, although the air coming out of it is not as powerful as a dedicated car blower like Metrovac makes. A leaf blower also has more power and is more portable... so very few reasons to use a show vac or any other vacuum cleaner to do this job.
 
I have done drying with drying aid a couple of times. The plush thicker drying towels got the fibers lumped together in spots. Even if I put them in the washer right after. And also I think it's more work and time consuming. And the need to buff and wipe over the surface more than once just don't seem as so gentle approach to me. Then maybe not a big difference but when doing a glossenhancer wipe down after the drying seems to be a little more effective in the longrun and more so to get more protection on the paint if that's the expectation. On a good protected paint I don't feel any difference from the drying aid to get the towel to glide better.

I use the matador technique when drying and 1 wipe is enough. When it starts to leave water on the paint I switch to another one. Where the matador technique don't work I often use the padding technique. Or a gentle touch when wipe the drying towel in some narrow spaces. Nitril gloves helps to have a good grabb on the drying towel too. Sometimes I take out the leafblower to blow dry. But lately I just skip it and use an extra drying towel instead. 2 drying towels to matador and padding technique and 1 drying towel to the narrow places.

And if I want to apply something I do it after the drying. Don't get me wrong I like to use Ech2o in QD after drying and have just bought a little 100ml bottle of Reload so I can mix a Merlins Elixir. Thinking about to ordering a 100ml of Hydro2 concentrate to do a mix of the Elixir from Carpro. Have also another Sio2 sealant I will mix with EcH2O.

Anyone use the matador technique when drying with drying aid and just need to be doing 1wipe? It's basicly lay down the drying towel as far away from you and drag it to you if you don't know what I mean with the matador drying technique. Holding the drying towel on the longside corners. And also I use specific drying towels like PFM style or a very high gsm drying towel.
 
I have done drying with drying aid a couple of times. The plush thicker drying towels got the fibers lumped together in spots. Even if I put them in the washer right after. And also I think it's more work and time consuming. And the need to buff and wipe over the surface more than once just don't seem as so gentle approach to me. Then maybe not a big difference but when doing a glossenhancer wipe down after the drying seems to be a little more effective in the longrun and more so to get more protection on the paint if that's the expectation. On a good protected paint I don't feel any difference from the drying aid to get the towel to glide better.

I use the matador technique when drying and 1 wipe is enough. When it starts to leave water on the paint I switch to another one. Where the matador technique don't work I often use the padding technique. Or a gentle touch when wipe the drying towel in some narrow spaces. Nitril gloves helps to have a good grabb on the drying towel too. Sometimes I take out the leafblower to blow dry. But lately I just skip it and use an extra drying towel instead. 2 drying towels to matador and padding technique and 1 drying towel to the narrow places.

And if I want to apply something I do it after the drying. Don't get me wrong I like to use Ech2o in QD after drying and have just bought a little 100ml bottle of Reload so I can mix a Merlins Elixir. Thinking about to ordering a 100ml of Hydro2 concentrate to do a mix of the Elixir from Carpro. Have also another Sio2 sealant I will mix with EcH2O.

Anyone use the matador technique when drying with drying aid and just need to be doing 1wipe? It's basicly lay down the drying towel as far away from you and drag it to you if you don't know what I mean with the matador drying technique. Holding the drying towel on the longside corners. And also I use specific drying towels like PFM style or a very high gsm drying towel.

So, you must have a Lamborgini then? :)
 
Do all of you use a damp MF when spreading/drying with a drying aid? I generally start with a DRY towel (usually a waffle weave), spray the side I’m drying with twice, then mist the panel and wipe close to dry. It may not be bone dry when done, but it’s close enough (I don’t get streaking).

I assume the pre-damped drying aid is done to reduce chance of marring, but I don’t get a whole lot of marring withdry towel + drying aid (obviously I probably get very tiny swirls on occasion, but my car usually stays fairly swirl free between my 2 polishes per year.
 
Anyone use the matador technique when drying with drying aid and just need to be doing 1wipe? It's basicly lay down the drying towel as far away from you and drag it to you if you don't know what I mean with the matador drying technique. Holding the drying towel on the longside corners. And also I use specific drying towels like PFM style or a very high gsm drying towel.


I used to love the matador method, but now that I use some kind of drying aid [I don’t really like that term as I don’t need it to help me dry] it doesn’t always work out that way. I start out matador style, but it quickly turns into a haphazard wipe and dry without much caution at all. I have enough confidence in my drying towels and I wipe and dry to the point that might cause the most cautious person to faint if they saw me. I don’t cause swirls.

Do all of you use a damp MF when spreading/drying with a drying aid? I generally start with a DRY towel (usually a waffle weave), spray the side I’m drying with twice, then mist the panel and wipe close to dry. It may not be bone dry when done, but it’s close enough (I don’t get streaking).

I assume the pre-damped drying aid is done to reduce chance of marring, but I don’t get a whole lot of marring withdry towel + drying aid (obviously I probably get very tiny swirls on occasion, but my car usually stays fairly swirl free between my 2 polishes per year.

I never pre dampen my drying towel. I start with a dry towel 100% of the time. I don’t care what vehicle or what color it is. They all get dried the same way.
 
I use a Griots PFM towel with no drying aid and have yet to get swirls. I retired my WWs to glass or other duties.
 
Back
Top