I've never detailed a car before

socalwdup

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I've always been interested in detailing but never had time to do it so I just bought the following to detail my ceramicoated Mercedes.

Rupes LHR15II/US/STD Black Random Orbital Polisher (Mark II BigFoot)
Mothers 17240 Speed Clay


These are the steps I will take:

1) prep the car by washing it using 2 bucket method
2) Clay to rid of all contaminants
3) Use Menzerna HC 400 to compound the car using the Rupes
4) Polish the car using Menzerna SF4000 Super Finish 4000
5) Seal it up using BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
6) Apply BlackFire Midnight Sun wax


My question is, what pads do I use on my Rupes? Also, where can I do this so called "Washer mod"?

Sorry for being so new, I've been browsing Autogeek for about 4 years now (time to time) and I am not sure what pads to buy and how many of each. If someone could explain what pads, what the colors mean, and what hex-pad and microfiber pads mean it would mean a lot. My project will begin as soon as someone helps me out. I am trying to learn. Thank you.



Meg's MF cutting pad, Lake Country white polishing pad
 
Not quite answers to your questions, but a couple other thoughts.

Ceramiclear paint is unique. Mike Phillips did a couple articles here on working with it. Have you seen them? If not, I'd recommend giving them a read.

Is the paint really swirled out and in bad shape? If not, you might not need to go as aggressive as 400 and use something a little more mild like 2500 and then follow it up with 4000.
 
Not quite answers to your questions, but a couple other thoughts.

Ceramiclear paint is unique. Mike Phillips did a couple articles here on working with it. Have you seen them? If not, I'd recommend giving them a read.


Here's the link to my Ceramiclear paint article,

Ceramiclear Paints - Be Careful

And it is very important to understand how this paint works and then treat it accordingly or you could ruin it.



Is the paint really swirled out and in bad shape?

If not, you might not need to go as aggressive as 400 and use something a little more mild like 2500 and then follow it up with 4000.

Very good point.


First - Pretty much anyone I've EVER talked to or typed to has let me know they "think" Ceramiclear paints are hard as rocks. In fact, I think that's what everyone I've ever discussed the topic of Ceramiclear paint has specifically described them,

Hard as rocks

or

Rock hard



I 100% respectfully disagree.


I have found all the Ceramiclear paints I've machine polished to be in the perfect sweet spot, not to hard, not to soft. In fact I've found them to correct easy with a medium cut polish for heavy swirls and a light cut polish for light swirls - thus persevering the fumed mica portion of the paint that makes Ceramiclear - Ceramiclear.


So before just taking a compound to the very cool paint on your car, do some test spots and see if you can correct the paint and get it to where you're happy by using only a polish.


This video thoroughly explains and SHOWS how to do a test spot using the least aggressive approach method. I'm going to guess, this is the only video that describes the process exactly as it should be described and then shown.


NOTE: This won't show up if you're using the broken Bill Gates Microsoft Internet Explorer so switch over to any other browser.




:)
 
I've always been interested in detailing but never had time to do it so I just bought the following to detail my ceramicoated Mercedes.

It's not that hard and when doing just your own cars you may find it a nice escape from the rat race and rewarding seeing what you can do yourself.

If fact, there are plenty of people in the world that call themselves a "detailer" that actually don't have a clue as to how to do this craft the right way. See this article,

It takes just as long to do it wrong...



Rupes LHR15II/US/STD Black Random Orbital Polisher (Mark II BigFoot)
Mothers 17240 Speed Clay


These are the steps I will take:

1) prep the car by washing it using 2 bucket method
2) Clay to rid of all contaminants
3) Use Menzerna HC 400 to compound the car using the Rupes
4) Polish the car using Menzerna SF4000 Super Finish 4000
5) Seal it up using BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection
6) Apply BlackFire Midnight Sun wax

What condition is the paint in?

Like mentioned above, do some testing, maybe you wont' need the compound.



My question is, what pads do I use on my Rupes?

I have at least 2 articles on this topic and a how-to book. Here's the first article,

The Air Test - Using NON RUPES pads on RUPES Polishers by Mike Phillips


Actually shared this with the head Engineer in Norway a few years ago when I was a guest instructor for their first European RUPES Seminar. I show the air test in all my detailing classes too. It's something that in and of itself shows a person exactly how important the right pads are for these types of tool.


Here's my other article, note I wrote this BEFOFRE the Mille was introduced. I'd recommend reading the part in the article about using RUPES pads with RUPES polishers until you've mastered the RUPES "system" and then start experimenting.

FLEX 3401 or RUPES? - A question I get asked a lot! -Mike Phillips




Also, where can I do this so called "Washer mod"?

I cover the washer mod in my how to book in DETAIL including the backstory. Just to note, I have more documented RUPES detailing classes than anyone else in this industry and none of our RUPES tools have the washer mod and all the cars we detail come out with a true show car finish.


***NEW RUPES Paperback Book***


Here's just one class I've fully documented using an old 2-door Pontiac. You know, a car you see getting used for people just learning how to machine polish all the time. :laughing:


July 2015
Car Detailing Classes - RUPES BigFoot Paint Polishing System

Training car: 1970 GTO Judge

watermark.php









Sorry for being so new, I've been browsing Autogeek for about 4 years now (time to time) and I am not sure what pads to buy and how many of each.

Good to see you join the forum. Welcome to AGO! :welcome:


If someone could explain what pads, what the colors mean, and what hex-pad and microfiber pads mean it would mean a lot.

Like stated above, start out with RUPES pads and move on after you master the tool. I never use hex-head pads - flat pads are the way to go.



The above is all I have time for, I have to send out a few e-mails to the people attending the Indy class and then I have to go pack for the Indy class, looks like this,


Packing up for the Autogeek Roadshow Class in Oconomowoc, Wisconsin - August 12th & 13th


:)
 
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