Jescar Correcting Compound and Micro Finishing Polish - Top Shelf Abrasive Technology

[Angus]

Cool video. What kind of car is that?


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Thanks, it's a BMW 335i.

 

[asap2stacks]

Hey mike In the picture of the Camaro that you corrected, the one picture of the hood where it shows the compound buffing circles. I was always told to work it small sections whenever compound,polishing, or waxing but obviously this wasn't the case with this vehicle that you did from viewing the photo. So have I been wasting extra time by doing smaller sections for no reason ?


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[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hey mike In the picture of the Camaro that you corrected, the one picture of the hood where it shows the compound buffing circles.

I was always told to work it small sections whenever compound, polishing, or waxing but obviously this wasn't the case with this vehicle that you did from viewing the photo.

So have I been wasting extra time by doing smaller sections for no reason ?


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Do you mean this pictures?

This is the Jescar Micro Finishing Polish - it's almost translucent and wipes off effortlessly as does the compound.

Boom! There it is. Final results after compounding and polishing. The paint is as close to flawless and this guy chooses to get it considering it's a daily driver but it looks dang good.

This Camaro is now ready for wax and that is the next step I did to the paint sealing in the results created by the new Jescar Correcting Compound and Micro Finishing Polish.

The hood was done in 4 sections and large sections can be tackled when using a Flex 3401 for compounding and polishing.

I shared this years ago, back in 2012 in this how-to article,

How To Use The Flex 3401



From the above article, look for the second picture down and the caption before it...

Because the Flex 3401 is a gear-driven, forced rotation polisher it offers a lot of power and for this reason I'm able to buff out this large section at one time.

Good question. I can see how some people might think I buffed out the entire front clip as ONE section pass due to the picture but the pictures was to show the translucent nature of the polish AFTER polishing and before wipe-off.


Just to note

If a person is using a high quality compound that uses great abrasive technology, then the polishing step is fast and easy because all you're doing is cleaning up or "removing" any seen or unseen marring from the pad and/or the compound. Thus while you can't use a free spinning tool to tackle large sections for the correction step you could use a free spinning tool and tackler larger sections for the polishing step.

Make sense?


The FLEX 3401 with its 8mm stroke length with a good cutting pad and a great compound can tackle neglected paint both fast and effective without holograms.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

And here's the entire passage from my FLEX 3401 how-to article that shows how due to the power of the gear-driven nature of the FLEX 3401 a person is able to tackle larger sections than with a free spinning tool when doing correction work.


*******Begin excerpt*********



About Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
The Flex 3401 is a gear driven, forced rotation dual action polisher with a variable speed controller enabling you to select the appropriate speed for the task at hand. The Flex 3401 is purposefully built for machine polishing paint. The Flex 3401 is German Engineered to be a professional grade tool that can be used in a production environment under heavy use. There are multiple backing plates and pads available for this tool for just about any type of paint correction, polishing or even machine waxing.


Here's my demo truck, a severely neglected Chevy Tahoe owned by my buddy Dave who's not really into car detailing but more into building Monster Trucks and Swamp Buggies for use at the Mud Fests in in South Florida.

This Tahoe has been repainted at some point in it's history but since then I doubt it's ever been waxed, let alone washed.

Speedy Prep Towel
I clayed the passenger side of the hood using the Speedy Prep Towel Medium Grade with Detailer's Universal Clay Lube before starting.

Here you can see water spotting and general staining and oxidation of the paint. Because the Flex 3401 is a gear-driven, forced rotation polisher it offers a lot of power and for this reason I'm able to buff out this large section at one time.

Here's the Flex 3401 as well as some products from Optimum Polymer Technologies.

Here I'm priming a Microfiber Cutting Pad with Optimum Compound II

Here I've turned the polisher on and spread my working product evenly over the entire surface I'm going to work.

I work the section using overlapping passes and a crosshatch pattern...

Even after wiping the hood clean and removing all the above surface bonded contaminants off using the speedy Prep Towel you can see all kinds of embedded dirt coming off the paint onto the pad. Note I have a clean pad in the picture for contrast.

Here I'm wiping the compound residue off and you can see a clear, glossy finish is starting to return.

Next I switch to the Optimum Microfiber Polishing Pad and Optimum Finish and proceed to prime the pad and then add the working product.

I repeat the overlapping, crosshatch pattern to the same section. Both the compound and the polish were applied using speed setting 6

The clarity and gloss are increasing after using the Optimum Finish

You can actually see the metallic flake now...

For contrast, here's what the paint looked before which is dull and flat and then to the right side is clear, glossy paint.

*******End excerpt*********


I know some people won't click the link to read the entire write-up for context so that's why I included it above....


Full article

How To Use The Flex 3401

 

[fightnews]

I think the Jescar polish is on par with the Menzerna Super Finish 3800

Here's the deal... even if it did squeeze out a little more shine, applying a wax or sealant or even coating would create a uniform appearance that would negate any difference.

When polishing paint, the application of a wax or sealant is the great equalizer. That is, applying a wax or sealant will tend to diminish any gained increase of one polish over the other.


I should write an article on this topic. (the great equalizer)





I did when I tested it on my black paint panel and it passed with flying colors. For a chemical stripper I used what was closest to my hand and that was the Gyeon Prep.

My preferred chemical stripper for compounds and polish is simple de-odorized mineral spirits.





I would never lay claim to the title expert about anything, in fact I've probably typed over a hundred times on this forum that I'm a

Perpetual Student

New technology is being introduced so fast that they only way to keep up is to have an open mind and be learning all the time.







And if you don't have a compound/polish tag team then give them a try. I guarantee they will not let you down.

I was impressed not only with the performance of the product but the simplicity of the line, that is two products, not 20, there's a compound and a polish. Pretty easy to figure out what to use and the order to use them.

So does that mean that the jescar finishes like a jeweling polish or there is no need for a jeweling polish at all?

What if you used menzerna 3500? Would there be no benefit to using 3800 afterwards to "jewel" the paint because the wax will negate any benefit?

If that's the case I'd say a lot of people including me are wasting their time jeweling? I'll skip it next time I detail my car.

Doing 7-8 passes per section takes me a long time

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

So does that mean that the jescar finishes like a jeweling polish or there is no need for a jeweling polish at all?

What if you used menzerna 3500? Would there be no benefit to using 3800 afterwards to "jewel" the paint because the wax will negate any benefit?

If that's the case I'd say a lot of people including me are wasting their time jeweling? I'll skip it next time I detail my car.

Doing 7-8 passes per section takes me a long time

Great questions but the answers are,

What you need for a follow-up polish depends on what you used initially, the pad and the results.

If you use a wool pad on a rotary and a great compound you still might need a medium cut polish with an orbital and a foam pad to remove the holograms from just the wool pad fibers.

If you cut with a foam cutting pad and a great compound on an orbital an ultra fine polish or jeweling polish might be enough to remove any haze (seen or unseen).


These are deep questions... there good questions but lots of factors not to mention your goals.


I would say that by the time you apply a wax, a sealant or a coating, the difference created by a medium cut or fine cut polish as compared to following either of these two categories of product with a THIRD step using your reference of a JEWELING polish which would be an ULTRA FINE CUT polish would be negligible as an LSP is the great equalizer when it comes to final end results.


Make sense?

Man I can go as deep as anyone and usually deeper....

 

[fightnews]

Great questions but the answers are,

What you need for a follow-up polish depends on what you used initially, the pad and the results.

If you use a wool pad on a rotary and a great compound you still might need a medium cut polish with an orbital and a foam pad to remove the holograms from just the wool pad fibers.

If you cut with a foam cutting pad and a great compound on an orbital an ultra fine polish or jeweling polish might be enough to remove any haze (seen or unseen).


These are deep questions... there good questions but lots of factors not to mention your goals.


I would say that by the time you apply a wax, a sealant or a coating, the difference created by a medium cut or fine cut polish as compared to following either of these two categories of product with a THIRD step using your reference of a JEWELING polish which would be an ULTRA FINE CUT polish would be negligible as an LSP is the great equalizer when it comes to final end results.


Make sense?

Man I can go as deep as anyone and usually deeper....

Yeah definitely makes sense, Do you think that menzerna 3800 on a red waxing pad would have enough bite to follow menzerna 2500 on a black finishing pad? I'm talking the force flex colors.

Either way there would be negligible benefit to using 3800 on a waxing pad after using jescar finishing polish on a finishing pad.

Even if the 3800 squeezes more gloss out of the panel the wax/sealant/coating would equalize the gloss on the final finish. You can only see so much reflection through a layer of wax?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Yeah definitely makes sense,

Kind of the science to abrading unknown variables

Unknown variable = paint

Do you think that menzerna 3800 on a red waxing pad would have enough bite to follow menzerna 2500 on a black finishing pad? I'm talking the force flex colors.

On most paints I would think yes but I would use a black finishing pad myself and the red waxing pads are simply too squishy for this application.

Either way there would be negligible benefit to using 3800 on a waxing pad after using jescar finishing polish on a finishing pad.

Even if the 3800 squeezes more gloss out of the panel the wax/sealant/coating would equalize the gloss on the final finish.

You can only see so much reflection through a layer of wax?

I agree with the above but that's in part because the Jescar finishing polish works so well and the human eye un-aided is so limited.

 

[asap2stacks]

Good stuff thanks for the valuable information Mike Phillips, always enjoy reading theses articles on my slow days/Off days! Hey so are you racing any sharks in the near future? Lol just joking...


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[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Good stuff thanks for the valuable information Mike Phillips, always enjoy reading theses articles on my slow days/Off days!

Glad you enjoy...

Hey so are you racing any sharks in the near future? Lol just joking...

I used to lap swim in the ocean but outside of Bathtub Beach I stick to the pool now days.