Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

Junkman2008 said:
You can't apply a glaze before a sealant. A sealant has to cure (bond to the surface of the car). If you put a glaze down before the sealant, then the sealant will not properly cure. That's a waste of sealant.
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JM that's a little strange but I see your point. On the AG website the Facts, Tips and Tricks from theExperts page is says glaze first then seal. What you're saying makes sense in the fact that most glazes have oils and some fillers that hide the scratches and may leave a slick finish and sealant would not bond to it. But doesn't some glazes have some micro cutting agents to further jewel the finish as step beyond polishes?

Also, how did you get started in this trade? You should do a short Bio story on the JM.
 
swanicyouth said:
The difference can be subtle close up. Stand back and look at the vehicle on a macro scale (as a whole), and that is where some LSPs look "good" and some "great".

I think the confusion is the difference between the ideas of "wax is what makes paint shiny" and "some LSPs look better than other". I think most of us on this forum would agree paint needs to be defect free (or close to it) to look "great" or "glossy/shiny" - its not the "wax" that does it. But to make a blanket statement that all waxes/LSPs look the same is just not correct.

After spending a LOT of time correcting and maintaining my car and paint, I'm not just going to slap any LSP on it just because it's cheap or it lasts long. If that where the answer, all the smart detailers would be using Turtle Wax.

Sure, there are some costly waxes that are not so great, and are no better than ones costing a fraction of the price. But to say all higher dollar waxes are just hype is crazy. It's like anything else, a lot of times you get what you pay for.
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I totally agree with you. The amount of shine you get will depend on how good the finish is. I was merely commenting on how wax can potentially change the type of shine and even possibly enhance color.
 
Junkman2008 said:
I follow your logic and it makes perfect sense to me. The million dollar question is, just how much do you gain? The gain part is where I rely on the preparation and not the wax. But your theory is sound.
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Yep... that's why I don't spend a fortune on wax. As I mention, the difference that I see is so very subtle that the value of it doesn't add up for me to drop $50+ for a bottle of boutique wax. You are abosultely right and it is all about what you gain and how much value you place on that.

For me personally, its mostly about durability, protection and ease of application when it comes to wax. However, I do like to keep a carnauba wax in my arsenal and top it on a layer of sealant when I do have some extra time.
 
runrun411 said:
JM that's a little strange but I see your point. On the AG website the Facts, Tips and Tricks from theExperts page is says glaze first then seal. What you're saying makes sense in the fact that most glazes have oils and some fillers that hide the scratches and may leave a slick finish and sealant would not bond to it. But doesn't some glazes have some micro cutting agents to further jewel the finish as step beyond polishes?
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That I'm not sure of since I don't use glazes. There may be some glazes out there with micro cutting agents (there are sealants out there that have the same thing - Hi-Temp's Midnight Express for example), so I wouldn't be surprised if there are glazes that do the same thing.

runrun411 said:
Also, how did you get started in this trade? You should do a short Bio story on the JM.
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My father was in the auto body repair business for 40 years before retiring due to lung issues (we found out that breathing that old single stage lacquer paint wasn't good for the lungs). He tried over and over to teach me but body work was hard and sweaty when he did it. Cutting bondo off a car in a shop with no air conditioning was brutal during the humid Kentucky summers. I really wanted no part of it until I bought my first new car back in the 80's.

That's when I dived into the detailing arena. I never cared to do ANYONE'S car but my own. Detailing cars is way more work than I care to do for the money expected. That's why I repair computer networks and computer software/hardware issues. It's a LOT more money and the work environment doesn't suck as bad as detailing cars. That's how it all started. The story about my name (Junkman), is probably best left for the ladies as most men always regret asking. lol!
 
c8n said:
Yep... that's why I don't spend a fortune on wax. As I mention, the difference that I see is so very subtle that the value of it doesn't add up for me to drop $50+ for a bottle of boutique wax. You are abosultely right and it is all about what you gain and how much value you place on that.

For me personally, its mostly about durability, protection and ease of application when it comes to wax. However, I do like to keep a carnauba wax in my arsenal and top it on a layer of sealant when I do have some extra time.
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That's exactly what I do, although I probably do it for a different reason than most folks. If I felt like parking my car for a week (because of the 36 hour curing time per coat of the sealant I use), I would do 2 coats of sealant. But because I like to drive my car, I do 1 coat of sealant and then follow that with a coat of carnuba paste wax. That gives me 2 coats of protection but I don't have to wait a week to drive the car. My process has NOTHING to do with looks.
 
Junkman2008 said:
That's exactly what I do, although I probably do it for a different reason than most folks. If I felt like parking my car for a week (because of the 36 hour curing time per coat of the sealant I use), I would do 2 coats of sealant. But because I like to drive my car, I do 1 coat of sealant and then follow that with a coat of carnuba paste wax. That gives me 2 coats of protection but I don't have to wait a week to drive the car. My process has NOTHING to do with looks.
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It seems like many of the boutique waxes have long curing time. Value down the drain for me right there. Even 12hrs is too long for me. It always pisses me off when I take my freshly waxed car on nice clear day and water drops on it from an overhead bridge or whatever which only means another round of :buffing:
 
Junkman2008 said:
The story about my name (Junkman), is probably best left for the ladies as most men always regret asking. lol!
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There's that most word again. But it this case it think it's okay. Your better off with most. LOL
 
AJ:
Looking forward to those new videos that will be coming from the Junkman movie production studios.
 
Hey junk man I'm having issues with m105 and orange pad. Getting heavy dusting
 
Hey It's JunkMan! have been watching your videos on Youtube. The one that stands out is were you dry the car with a hose. And say "bone dry" haha

Love your stuff especially cos I feel that I can relate to them more.
 
MrKobra said:
Hey junk man I'm having issues with m105 and orange pad. Getting heavy dusting
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Your going to have dusting with m105 and an orange pad. Tape off trim and cover sensitive cracks and areas that will get filled with dust. Wash after compounding!
 
mattk said:
Your going to have dusting with m105 and an orange pad. Tape off trim and cover sensitive cracks and areas that will get filled with dust. Wash after compounding!
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Are all these steps necessary with 3M rubbing compound?
 
MrKobra said:
Hey junk man I'm having issues with m105 and orange pad. Getting heavy dusting
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That's because you are NOT following the instructions that I laid down in my videos. I was VERY specific when I described:

  • How much polish to use.
  • That you need to work INDOORS and out of direct sunlight.
  • The work needs to be done on a cool surface.
  • Polisher speed.
  • Pressure.

You are doing one or more of the above incorrectly. Tell me which ones.

mattk said:
Your going to have dusting with m105 and an orange pad. Tape off trim and cover sensitive cracks and areas that will get filled with dust. Wash after compounding!
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That is totally incorrect if you do it correctly. In my videos, did you see me having any dusting issues?

hernandez.art13 said:
Are all these steps necessary with 3M rubbing compound?
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All these steps as in 3? Clay (if necessary), polish then wax? Is that a lot of steps to you? Depending on which 3M product you use, the process is pretty much exactly the same. That is unless you glaze the paint to death, which doesn't fix anything, just hides the scratches.
 
Junkman2008 said:
That's because you are NOT following the instructions that I laid down in my videos. I was VERY specific when I described:

  • How much polish to use.
  • That you need to work INDOORS and out of direct sunlight.
  • The work needs to be done on a cool surface.
  • Polisher speed.
  • Pressure.

You are doing one or more of the above incorrectly. Tell me which ones.



That is totally incorrect if you do it correctly. In my videos, did you see me having any dusting issues?



All these steps as in 3? Clay (if necessary), polish then wax? Is that a lot of steps to you? Depending on which 3M product you use, the process is pretty much exactly the same. That is unless you glaze the paint to death, which doesn't fix anything, just hides the scratches.
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I pretty much use what I got used at the auto body shop I used to work for. All 3M, 3M rubbing compound, 3M ultrafine polisher, then Meguiars wax. Never had dusting problems. Maybe a few splatters in the beginning haha

I was just wondering if m105 creates a lot more dust then the 3M. Or if it was creating so much dust because of the way he was using the product
 
hernandez.art13 said:
... Or if it was creating so much dust because of the way he was using the product
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EXACTLY. I have used M105 for years with NO issues and if you do any of the things that I mentioned in my response to him, you will have dusting issues. But that is also true for ANY compound, no matter what brand it is. Some people have issues with M205 dusting. If you can't use M205 without dusting issues, you have no chance with any compound.

This is why professional products are normally not sold over the counter. The manufacturers do not want novices using them and spreading bad information about the product's performance. There are no laws on the Internet that say you have to be able to prove what you post, and that's why so much bad information exist. That's also why I make videos instead of just posting information. Who are you going to believe, me or your lying eyes? ;)
 
AJ:
Need some videos from you on M-100 and M-101. The Meguairs mf paint correction system.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
Junkman2008 said:
EXACTLY. I have used M105 for years with NO issues and if you do any of the things that I mentioned in my response to him, you will have dusting issues. But that is also true for ANY compound, no matter what brand it is. Some people have issues with M205 dusting. If you can't use M205 without dusting issues, you have no chance with any compound.

This is why professional products are normally not sold over the counter. The manufacturers do not want novices using them and spreading bad information about the product's performance. There are no laws on the Internet that say you have to be able to prove what you post, and that's why so much bad information exist. That's also why I make videos instead of just posting information. Who are you going to believe, me or your lying eyes? ;)
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What recording equipment do you use? Me and my cousin were talking about making a video of how to remove orange peel.
 
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