Just a quickie - dampsanding a nightmare!

C. Charles Hahn

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This 2008 Toyota Camry was brought to me by a neighbor after one of his "buddies" did some collision repair work on a couple panels. The person who painted it did an absolutely terrible job of prep before he painted, and to make matters worse, the paint job was done outdoors with no protection from the elements whatsoever.

And the worst part? It's jet black.

Since the vehicle is going to be turned in (off-lease) at the end of the month, the owner didn't want (or need, really) to pay to have the entire vehicle polished out, but the panels which were refinished really needed some work. The goal wasn't to make them perfect, but rather to make them a closer match to the factory orange peel on the rest of the vehicle. So, on to pics.

Here's what I had to start with:

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First up was masking the panel edges and door handle area to protect them from potential damage:

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Next up I took some paint thickness readings to see what I was working with. Here's a reading from the door on the opposite side of the vehicle (factory paint):

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And here's a couple from the door I'll be sanding:

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Given that the readings across the panel are all over the map, and considering that I have no way of knowing exactly what was done to the panel (how many coats of clear vs. primer or base) I knew I would have to be a bit careful and watch what I was doing. I chose the Meguiar's Unigrit DA system for the task.

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Step one was eating through the trash and nibs with some 800 grit:

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Followed by going over the whole panel with a 1500 grit finishing disc:

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And finally refining the scratches down with a 3000 grit disc:

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Up to this point, here's a couple readings of how much paint has been removed:

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I compounded the finish back up to gloss with the rotary using a yellow Meguiar's SO1O wool pad and M105, followed by D300 on a MF cutting disc with the DA to remove any buffer trails (this paint was ROCK HARD!). Finally I employed Menzerna 106FA to finish up the door and rear quarter panel, which was only in need of polishing. Here's the result:

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Here's one of the final measurements for the paint:

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And last but not least, a flash shot to keep me honest :dig:

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Unfortunately there are a few tracers that mapped through the finish which I couldn't remove, but it's still a significant improvement and hopefully enough to keep the owner from paying a damage premium.

Thanks for looking!
 
Wow! Now if the rest of the car looks that good, he's home free.
 
Wow! Now if the rest of the car looks that good, he's home free.

Thanks! The car definitely needs more correction work done, but it's just passable enough that he should be mostly alright with the dealership. :buffing:
 
Nice work Charlie...Your friend can breathe eaiser when he turns the car in...Really good save over that hack of a paint job too!!!:props:
 
Awesome work Charlie! Just out of curiosity do you smooth out the door edges? Salesmen here always run their fingers over edges checking for over spray and don't really pay attention to the paint itself. If he painted outside then I suspect a few cars in the area could use a clay bar treatment, which means more work for you :).
 
looks great! amazing turn around Charlie, I'll have to swing up to Lansing and maybe you can show me some wet sanding techniques some time.
 
Awesome work Charlie! Just out of curiosity do you smooth out the door edges? Salesmen here always run their fingers over edges checking for over spray and don't really pay attention to the paint itself. If he painted outside then I suspect a few cars in the area could use a clay bar treatment, which means more work for you :).

Thanks Richard! Actually the door edges weren't bad; the overspray had already been clayed off before it got to me, but even that didn't matter much. There are enough other problems like visible hard tape lines that it's still going to be pretty obvious the car has had paint work done. At least the majority of it is presentable now.

WOW!!! nice save!!!!!

Thanks!

looks great! amazing turn around Charlie, I'll have to swing up to Lansing and maybe you can show me some wet sanding techniques some time.

Any time! My shop has heat/AC :xyxthumbs:
 
Nice work Charlie. You do make a very good point about matching the orange peel. I have seen some body shops do amazing work and the panels that they have painted looked perfect. Problem was looking at the vehicle as a whole and the paint looked so different because of the non matching orange peel. Better spray guns have a dial on them to help match factory orange peel. Photos are great also.
 
Thanks Jim, you're totally right about good spray equipment helping with matching orange peel -- on the opposite end of the spectrum to this I've seen some vehicles come out of the paint booth with a spot-on matching appearance without any sanding or buffing done to them at all.
 
Awesome job Charlie. Damp-sanding must be a hell of a lot easier/faster than wet/color sanding (though I would not attempt damp-sanding because I don't want to [possibly] fry my pc).
 
Awesome job Charlie. Damp-sanding must be a hell of a lot easier/faster than wet/color sanding (though I would not attempt damp-sanding because I don't want to [possibly] fry my pc).

Thanks; the danger of frying your PC is very low, actually.... it gets more wet while cleaning pads in a grit guard pad washer than it does while sanding in my experience. Both of my DAs have gotten "damp" from splash-back and they're still very much alive and kicking. :dblthumb2:
 
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