Just bought a Makita 9227c!

VW 91

VW 91

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Ok so I just bought a barely used Makita 9227c for what I think is a great price considering I have been looking around on craigslist and ebay for a couple months now. I have had my PC DA for about 9 months now and although I do love it, I feel like it's limiting me and I wanted a rotary to achieve better, faster correction. My plan is to use the Makita for compounding and polishing for heavy defect removal, and finish off with the PC so I ensure that the finish is hologram free until I get more used to the Makita.

Now from what I have been reading, the smaller the pad, the easier it is to control the rotary buffer. I have quite a bit of 5.5" CCS pads and want to pick up some more. I just wanted to see what people's thoughts are on the 5.5" CCS pads with a rotary, before I go ahead and purchase some more, and a 5" BP for the Makita. Any other suggestions of BP/pads that are very easy to use and control are greatly appreciated!

Any other useful tips to get me started would be helpful, but right now I'm mostly concerned with what pads to get and spend money on! I'm so excited to get it now along with all the pads that I'll be ordering in the near future. And oh, I'll have plenty of practise with it before I bust it out on customers cars. My brother totalled his car last summer and its still sitting out in the yard. Aside from the front being smashed, I have a whole car to practise on! :buffing:
 
If you have a car to practice on ant it will never ever be put back into service then I say you go ahead and burn through the clear in a spot. I think it will help make you feel more comfortable with the tool. Then practice with technique to get it down where you are comfortable. For some added fun you could get some sand paper and sand a panel and try to go for absolute perfection.

Sum that up to practice and have fun with it. You will get the hang of it
 
I use the 5.5 CCS pads and they are really easy to control. I started with the 6.5" CCS pads and wasn't happy having to try to wrestle with the polisher as I got the hang of it. Using the 5.5 made it a lot easier to practice on controlling the machine and the right way to do it. Also, I used the machine at much lower speeds when i was starting. It's been a long time since i've been using it and I feel very comfortable with it. I use the CCS 5.5" still and sometimes use the Uber pads which are easy to control as well.

Good luck with it!
 
PAR Detailing said:
If you have a car to practice on ant it will never ever be put back into service then I say you go ahead and burn through the clear in a spot. I think it will help make you feel more comfortable with the tool. Then practice with technique to get it down where you are comfortable. For some added fun you could get some sand paper and sand a panel and try to go for absolute perfection.

Sum that up to practice and have fun with it. You will get the hang of it
Click to expand...

Yes this car will not be in service anymore, and it is black so I can even work on trying to leave as little holograms as possible with just the rotary. And I never thought about burning through the clear, thats a great idea to get a feel for how much it would take to actually damage the paint. Thanks for the advice. :xyxthumbs:

D_Nyholm said:
I use the 5.5 CCS pads and they are really easy to control. I started with the 6.5" CCS pads and wasn't happy having to try to wrestle with the polisher as I got the hang of it. Using the 5.5 made it a lot easier to practice on controlling the machine and the right way to do it. Also, I used the machine at much lower speeds when i was starting. It's been a long time since i've been using it and I feel very comfortable with it. I use the CCS 5.5" still and sometimes use the Uber pads which are easy to control as well.

Good luck with it!
Click to expand...

Thanks and thats just what I wanted to hear! Gonna start off with 5.5" CCS pads for sure then.
 
Makita is my favorite tool! I pretty much do everything with it. I have the PC...but I barely use it at the moment. Aside from wax, and sealant applications.

For correction though...rotary is definitely where it's at. It's good that you have a vehicle to practice on. Try as many products as you can.

Don't only focus on correction though. Find a nice one step product that works good for you. You will find it really handy if you get busy with customers.

I only say that cause most customers aren't concerned with correction...and really aren't willing to pay for it. But, you definitely wanna keep that skill in your back pocket. Cause you will get asked to perform. :dblthumb2:
 
Kristopher1129 said:
Makita is my favorite tool! I pretty much do everything with it. I have the PC...but I barely use it at the moment. Aside from wax, and sealant applications.

For correction though...rotary is definitely where it's at. It's good that you have a vehicle to practice on. Try as many products as you can.

Don't only focus on correction though. Find a nice one step product that works good for you. You will find it really handy if you get busy with customers.

I only say that cause most customers aren't concerned with correction...and really aren't willing to pay for it. But, you definitely wanna keep that skill in your back pocket. Cause you will get asked to perform. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

There's allot of good advise and information here...:props:

When I started doing Autobody work in the mid 70's to the mid 80's all we had to work with was rotary machines. While they are powerful they're only a tool that requires learning and practice..

  • Rotary polishers are powerful and correct much more quickly that a dual action polisher
  • Pay close attention when working with it
  • Practice and develop your skill
  • Proceed slowly
By the way; I have the Makita 9227 and agree, this is one great machine! :props:
 
Thanks for the feedback so far! I bought some more 5.5" CCS pads and 2 purple kompressor pads after reading and seeing that they were popular to use with the rotary. What are some good wool pads to get started on?
 
IMO it is easier to work with a flat pad on the rotary. I use a makita with the CG evo backing plate and the 5.5" uber low profile pads in various colors. For a while I was using the CCS pads and an LC backing plate but didn't like the feel that much. As far as wool pads go, the 3m wool cutting pad is my favorite. It has a very nice cut, minimal shedding after the first cleaning and lasts a very long time.

If you get a chance to try 85rd with a finishing pad like the LC blue pads, you will see a whole new level of gloss. It is a minimal cut but jeweling with a rotary is unbeatable IMO.
 
JonMiles said:
IMO it is easier to work with a flat pad on the rotary. I use a makita with the CG evo backing plate and the 5.5" uber low profile pads in various colors. For a while I was using the CCS pads and an LC backing plate but didn't like the feel that much. As far as wool pads go, the 3m wool cutting pad is my favorite. It has a very nice cut, minimal shedding after the first cleaning and lasts a very long time.

If you get a chance to try 85rd with a finishing pad like the LC blue pads, you will see a whole new level of gloss. It is a minimal cut but jeweling with a rotary is unbeatable IMO.
Click to expand...
100% agreed

I have the 3M wool double sided (SuperBuff 2+2) it's a wonderful pad. It's a bit big but very flexable and finishes very nice. Don't scoff at the price because it will outlast 10 wool pads of other brands. I have some of the 5.5" CCS pads but I prefer the 6.5" LC flat with 6" LC backing plate.

You may want to consider the edge 2000 pads for DA polishers on your rotary too, they are always perfectly centered on the adapter and small enough to run smoothly for a beginner and double sided so you can cut and do swirl removal by simply flipping the pad over. IMO they are the easiest pads to learn with.

You may want to test how long it takes to cut through on the edges between panels on your practice car. You may be surprised at how quick it can happen. Burning through on the flat part of a panel can take a long time with some really heavy cut compound. You may be surprised there as well.

I love my Makita, it is a real smooth running machine even at 600 RPM. I think you'll like it. You can finish black paint hologram free with the rotary only. It takes some practice but you'll get the hang of it. Have fun.
 
Just an update...

I finally got to use my new to me Makita.. I had a trunk lid that I could practise on from my brothers car that he plans on respraying anyways. Tried some wetsanding, and cutting with a PFW pad. I felt like I did a good job at controlling the buffer, and it was VERY smooth to use.

I do have some questions/concerns tho. After compounding on wool I checked my work and as expected I left holograms. So I then used a gray 5.5" CCS pad with 205 and went over the area at around 1500, and then slowed it down to 900 for my last few passes. Checked my work and holograms were still noticable. So then I broke out my PC on a orange 5.5" CCS pad with 205 and I removed the holograms, but there was very noticable micro-marring left behind. Just curious as to what caused the micro-marring? And any tips on how to reduce the holograms?
 
VW 91 said:
Just an update...

I finally got to use my new to me Makita.. I had a trunk lid that I could practise on from my brothers car that he plans on respraying anyways. Tried some wetsanding, and cutting with a PFW pad. I felt like I did a good job at controlling the buffer, and it was VERY smooth to use.

I do have some questions/concerns tho. After compounding on wool I checked my work and as expected I left holograms. So I then used a gray 5.5" CCS pad with 205 and went over the area at around 1500, and then slowed it down to 900 for my last few passes. Checked my work and holograms were still noticable. So then I broke out my PC on a orange 5.5" CCS pad with 205 and I removed the holograms, but there was very noticable micro-marring left behind. Just curious as to what caused the micro-marring? And any tips on how to reduce the holograms?
Click to expand...

There's always many reasons marring or holograms can be left over. Did you clay before starting the compound?

Also, I'm not familiar with the grey pad. But I use a blue finishing pad. Everybody has different color pads that mean different things. But my pad is a soft finishing pad. The only thing I can think of is that your pad may have to be softer for a better finish.
 
If you are saying your final step was 205 with an orange LC pad; try going back over it with 205 and a finishing pad. The orange pad is a light cutting pad and can leave micro marring.
 
No i did not clay it prior to buffing. I clayed it before about springtime, and the car has been sitting in the garage for about a year, so their was no need to clay. Just gave it a quick ONR wipedown to get rid of the dust. I have used an orange pad before with 205 and it has finished down beautifully for me everytime. This was the first time I had micromarring from it. I do have like 5 blue pads so maybe I'll give that a try. What are some good tips for finishing down on the Makita with the blue pad? I have Menz PO85RD too btw..
 
Not sure if i follow, you went over it with a pfw pad and then followed up with a grey (super fine finishing pad)? Or do i not know what a grey pad is?

If it is a fine finishing pad, you will need a polish step between the PFW and the grey pad. I usually will do SIP/PFW, then SIP/White pad, then Nano grey pad (or white pad depending on color of car). I don't think you can go directly from PFW to a finish pad. You might be able to get away with SIP/PFW and then Nano/White (you can substitute 105 for SIP and 205 for Nano).
 
Yes, I went from PFW/105 to a finishing pad and 205. I knew that their would be some marring cause I didnt do a middle step, but I was more concerned on just getting the feel of the new machine, and trying to reduce holograms, not worried about the marring. But I wanted to get rid of the micro-marring with the PC/orange/205 step, and it did not do so.
 
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