If your referring to the water spot removal the iron x or carpro will make your life easier.The iron x will remove about 75 percent of embedded water marks.The pic you provided there are 2 types of water marks,embedded and topical.Trying to remove water marks by da will be time consuming versus spraying a chemical and rinse and gone.and looks like embedded water marks.
Just get me started
- Thread starter Barnabus Collins
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Barnabus Collins
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- Mar 3, 2016
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- #23
Ok, so we're talking about more of a chemical removal rather than a physical polishing? I guess it needs both.
Read my lips.
Spend a day with Cardaddy. Do not pass go. Do not think about it. Visit Cardaddy.
His name is Tony.
I am across the country, but I would pay good money to spend a day with a guy like this.
He is THAT friendly, good, and helpful. He is passionate to help guys that want to learn some of this.
If you can get him to stop talking so much all the better.
He's Top Drawer.
He's really one of the Good Guys.
:dblthumb2:
cardaddy
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- Nov 20, 2012
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Thanks for the complement.
You'd be surprised how much better yours will look once it's had a thorough decontamination and even a single stage buff.
First things first though, it REALLY needs that decon wash. IRON-X would make a huge difference.
Some IRON-X then clay, others clay then IRON-X. I tend to do it first, the wash and rinse. Then hit it with Nanoskin on the GG6 (plus hand held Nanoskin pads). Then go back with a IRON-X snow foam for a second wash and rinse.
I've had the opportunity to attack Type 2 water spots like yours quite a bit. They're not completely un-fixable, although it takes a bit of looking to determine if they've etched/discolored the base coat or not. If it's just the clear, it should be easy enough to get 80%~90% of them out first trip around.:xyxthumbs:
Working with the DAT compounds gives you extended working times over SMAT products, just that they cut less with each pass. For that matter... you MUST work them longer or you don't really get the benefit of the product (as it's designed). Although on that first pass, these products may indeed cut a bit *more* than the equivalent SMAT product would... then quickly diminish the longer you work them.
Whereas working with a SMAT based product you'll do 3, 4, 5 passes (max) and STOP. (For most of them.) Actually... if it's something like M105 you might not be able to work more than 2 passes depending on the ambient temps before it gets too hard to work and dries out. It can of course be worked longer at times, but be careful that should you *try* to work it like say Ultimate Compound you'll end up with it drying out and literally turning to cement on the surface.
At ALL COSTS you really, REALLY don't want to go down that road! Not of course that all SMAT products behave like 105, because they don't. Take D300 for instance... it is an AWESOME compound (my most used the last few years). Just remember they ALL cut hard during those first 2, 3, 4, maybe even 5 passes. Much harder than DAT compounds. Which of course can lead to micromarring/DA haze when trying to work SMAT products too long. The micro particles can actually start to cut differently than they were designed to, with built up abraded paint, spent product, dirt, pad residue, et al working upon the surface (as well as within the pad). It's just easy enough to work the product "clean" by doing a few passes, exercising care to leave a "wet trail", wipe it clean afterwards, then if you need more cut... reapply and do it again.
This is why we'll often do the first correction step with a SMAT compound, then top it with a DAT product that generally finish easier. FWIW, that C7 was done with D300, FG400, and SF4000.
There is a way to use FG400 as a 1.5 step process that can streamline the process a bit over a 'true' 2 step process. Basically you start with a cutting pad, as well as a finishing pad, both primed and cleaned, and both using FG400. It is amazing how well it'll finish down, especially when you consider it's really a heavy cut compound. It's THAT good!
rops:The two big differences between the machines are:
GG6 Considerably more power
GG6 Lifetime warranty!
FWIW, I have a GG6 here, as well as a Rupes and a Flex.
Drop me an e-mail and I'll give you my cell# and we can talk.
RE your schedule... I can usually work out any day (or two) given a few days notice.
On the training thing, I do some of the work, then just let the client go to work. Everything from starting the wash with all the brushes, decon, taping up, compounding, polishing, all the way to sealing. Depends on what all they want as to how much time it takes.
One guy was here NINETEEN HOURS and wanted his whole car wet sanded! He showed up about 10:00 am and didn't leave till after 5:00 am the next morning! He sorta' wore out his welcome.
I was LITERALLY DYING!(I have a REALLY bad back and he just wasn't paying attention to my efforts to get him to leave.) Won't let that happen again.
Actually I was fine at the 12, even the 14 hour mark, which was midnight. But that's time to get outta' here if ya' know what I mean. 
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
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Awwwww.... thanks Brad!:grouphug:
But I have no idea what you're referring to about me talking so much.
:laughing: LMAO :laughing:I mean shucks... lil' ol' ME?
(Ol' being the operative word!!!!!) Im the MAN
Barnabus Collins
New member
- Mar 3, 2016
- 12
- 0
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks for the complement.
You'd be surprised how much better yours will look once it's had a thorough decontamination and even a single stage buff.
First things first though, it REALLY needs that decon wash. IRON-X would make a huge difference.
Some IRON-X then clay, others clay then IRON-X. I tend to do it first, the wash and rinse. Then hit it with Nanoskin on the GG6 (plus hand held Nanoskin pads). Then go back with a IRON-X snow foam for a second wash and rinse.
I've had the opportunity to attack Type 2 water spots like yours quite a bit. They're not completely un-fixable, although it takes a bit of looking to determine if they've etched/discolored the base coat or not. If it's just the clear, it should be easy enough to get 80%~90% of them out first trip around.:xyxthumbs:
Working with the DAT compounds gives you extended working times over SMAT products, just that they cut less with each pass. For that matter... you MUST work them longer or you don't really get the benefit of the product (as it's designed). Although on that first pass, these products may indeed cut a bit *more* than the equivalent SMAT product would... then quickly diminish the longer you work them.
Whereas working with a SMAT based product you'll do 3, 4, 5 passes (max) and STOP. (For most of them.) Actually... if it's something like M105 you might not be able to work more than 2 passes depending on the ambient temps before it gets too hard to work and dries out. It can of course be worked longer at times, but be careful that should you *try* to work it like say Ultimate Compound you'll end up with it drying out and literally turning to cement on the surface.
Not of course that all SMAT products behave like 105, because they don't. Take D300 for instance... it is an AWESOME compound (my most used the last few years). Just remember they ALL cut hard during those first 2, 3, 4, maybe even 5 passes. Much harder than DAT compounds. Which of course can lead to micromarring/DA haze when trying to work SMAT products too long. The micro particles can actually start to cut differently than they were designed to, with built up abraded paint, spent product, dirt, pad residue, et al working upon the surface (as well as within the pad). It's just easy enough to work the product "clean" by doing a few passes, exercising care to leave a "wet trail", wipe it clean afterwards, then if you need more cut... reapply and do it again.
This is why we'll often do the first correction step with a SMAT compound, then top it with a DAT product that generally finish easier. FWIW, that C7 was done with D300, FG400, and SF4000.
There is a way to use FG400 as a 1.5 step process that can streamline the process a bit over a 'true' 2 step process. Basically you start with a cutting pad, as well as a finishing pad, both primed and cleaned, and both using FG400. It is amazing how well it'll finish down, especially when you consider it's really a heavy cut compound. It's THAT good!
The two big differences between the machines are:
GG6 Considerably more power
GG6 Lifetime warranty!
FWIW, I have a GG6 here, as well as a Rupes and a Flex.
Drop me an e-mail and I'll give you my cell# and we can talk.
RE your schedule... I can usually work out any day (or two) given a few days notice.
On the training thing, I do some of the work, then just let the client go to work. Everything from starting the wash with all the brushes, decon, taping up, compounding, polishing, all the way to sealing. Depends on what all they want as to how much time it takes.
One guy was here NINETEEN HOURS and wanted his whole car wet sanded! He showed up about 10:00 am and didn't leave till after 5:00 am the next morning! He sorta' wore out his welcome.
(I have a REALLY bad back and he just wasn't paying attention to my efforts to get him to leave.) Won't let that happen again.
Haha, well I wouldn't do that to you. I'll just go with the GG6 if I can get it for around $100. I just email them first and ask about price matching the coupon? Then I would need
IronX
Pinnacle twins (or Megs D300 and a glaze? Might be better to use whatever teacher knows best)
Still haven't decided on wax
Whatever pads I need. Maybe CCS 2 orange, 2 white, 1 blue?
I need to get some wash mitts (I've been using MF sponges) and WW towels anyway.
I'll try to email you later today.
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
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Pick up a bottle of IRON-X for the first decon, and then if you want to snow foam it with IRON-X you could get a small bottle of that as well. Can put it in my foam cannon. (Have a bottle of IRON-X snow-foam here if you wanna' try/buy it.)
D300 will work GREAT on that paint, with either the Megs microfiber pads or orange LC pads. Then follow it with 205 or maybe Megs Ultimate Polish. That's if you want to stay with SMAT products. (Of course I have all that.)
Could also do it all with FG400 followed with 2000 or 4000. (Have all that here as well.)
Also have a fresh bottle of HD Adapt that I'd like to try on it just for snits-n-giggles.
Honestly.... I wouldn't even worry about waxing it. That's where you want a quality sealant. Plenty of Wolfgang DGPS 3.0 as well as Megs M21 2.0 sitting around here as well.
Once you get it where you really like it, you might seriously consider putting a coating on it. Why? Because it simply keeps the car from getting dirty SOOOOOO much better than anything else.
My car was dusty from driving around the last couple of weeks, so today I rinsed it down with a 1700psi PW, then foamed it with a mix of Hyperwash and Mr. Pink, then rinsed it again with the PW, pulled out the blower and dried it in just a few minutes and never touched the surface with anything. If you don't have ANY pads yet, I'd get 3 orange 3 white. Maybe even 4 orange, 2 white. I've been saying for years now that I'd like to see Autogeek offer a "Detailers Dozen" (like a Bakers Dozen) where you buy 12 and get 13. With that in mind it'd be 4 orange, 4 white, 2 blue, 2 black, 1 red and call it a day. Truth be known, your white pads are EASILY the most used pads you'll have. They can work with a heavy cut compound, as well as with a finishing polish. It's not uncommon to just get 6 of them, 4 orange, then 2 blue or black.
Oh oh oh.... it goes without saying that we're talking about 5½" pads as well. One, because they work better on the machines you'll be using. And, two... because they are more affordable!:dblthumb2:
Mitt's, that's subjective for sure. But the blue ones at Advance are really not bad. The KEY is to always, and I mean ALWAYS keep your mitts clean, and have a dedicated mitt for the bottom areas. Just pick up a handful of those and as they get dirty just delegate them to 'dirty work' and pull out a fresh one for the clean (upper) areas.
Although.... I really love my CarPro Merino Wool mitt, and never worry about it causing swirls.
rops:If you want a cool drying towel... you might look at the Cobra Guzzler foam core towel. It's one of only 2 towels that I really can get away with recommending (as far as waffle weaves go). The other one I can't say where it comes from here (the forum gods will rain gravel and brimstone if I did) but it is a Korean waffle weave, and comes from San Diego.
We'll catch up on the particulars via e-mail or phone. Keeps us out of trouble here.:dunno: