just got some megs 105, im lost

redboost10

redboost10

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so i just got some megs 105, tried it with my pc...basically followed the general steps/method of when using menzerna polishes. i could not get results for the life of me. i was working on a 99 honda accord (girlfriends car so if i screwed up, just need to spray the hood again). tried a spot on the hood and did not do one thing.

was using a orange pad to start off with. the swirls do not even looked like they were touched. did not make the finish worse nor better.

any ideas, recommendations, changes that i should make when using megs 105? i think i may be sticking to menz sip
 
that makes no sense, the Megs M105 is a MUCH more aggressive cut than the SIP. The M105 should easily be taking out defects that the SIP couldn't touch.

What EXACTLY was the procedure you used?
How did you apply the M105? What speed on the PC? How much pressure were you applying and how many passes did you make?

An orange pad with M105 has a LOT of cutting power. I usually don't have to go beyond a white pad with M105 to get excellent results. Anything beyond a white pad means some real serious defects.
Than again, I use a Flex 3401 rather than a PC so maybe the extra power is where the difference comes in.
 
I have NO exp with 105, just my thoughts.

Less product, smaller work area, more time? I understand 105 is pretty aggressive. Are you sure it isn't new compounding haze, to be removed by 205?
 
i primed the pad with a bit more than the normal (about 6 dots for the first section, 4 dots for the rest of the sections). 18 x 18 section
spread it around on speed 3, then worked it in on speed 6 making 2 passes left to right and 1 pass up and down, overlapping 50% each pass. just basically rested my hand on the head of the pc, not much pressure as ive been told on here. moving about 2" / second

basically this is the procedure ive read to use with menz and i had great results...maybe megs 105 needs a different method?

just put the car in the sun and noticed not even the water spots were touched.

thank you for the quick reply
 
Put a quarter size amount on the pad, with a MF towel spread it and rub it in your pad, then use 2 pea size drops. Put the pad on the paint, speed 6 on your pc and begin to work it in. I do not spread it like other polishes I use 105 in a very different way then any other polish.
 
Random Questions:

How long did it take you to do those passes? A sec. per inch? faster? slower?
What size pad were you using?
 
ok cool, ill try that. thank you sir.

ill admit this is only my 7th car so i figured id give this compound a try.
 
You need to use the pc on speed 6 first, then prime the pad and 105 should get most of the defects out. This polish works alot quicker than the Menzerna polish so you need to get that out of your head and start fresh. The 105 is very quick, so speed 6 and some pressure and you will see results.
 
it took about 5-6 minutes to do the 18x18 section making 3 passes total moving about 2"/sec, using a 5.5" pad.

alright so no spreading it on speed 3.
put some on the pad, spread it on speed 6 and work it in.

are you guys moving at the same slow speed as with menzerna polishes? 1-2"/sec?
 
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Never heard 105 lasting this long, even the new version. This is probably part of your problem, you are inducing marring since you are overworking it.
 
alright, yeah, im just stuck on the menzerna method ive been using.

so start on 6, and move quicker. use about the same amount of compound? prime pad with a quarter size, then use 4 pea sized dots after that?
 
Try priming the pad using the method below. M105 will vary in aggressiveness depending on how much pressure is used. As a guide I will apply enough pressure to stop the pad from rotating and then back the pressure off just enough to where the pads starts spinning again. Placing a black mark on the backing plate with a sharpie will help you see when the pad is rotating.

PorscheGuy997 said:
A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method

Hey everyone,

I thought I would give you guys a little sample of Kevin's paper. One of the most important topics covered is pad priming. Although it may seem simple, I wanted to clear up some confusion.


When I refer to pad priming, I am referring to the liquid that will be used in polishing - not a spray detailer.

M105, M205, M86, D151, SwirlX, ScratchX 2.0, and Ultimate Compound use abrasives that are uniform and non-diminishing (SMAT). That means that they are very different than most products that use abrasives that break down. These products that use non-diminishing abrasives rely heavily on the lubricant. If there is too much lubricant, then the cut will be reduced because the abrasive is floating in lubricant. If there is too little lubricant, then the product will "flash" very quickly and you will need to reapply product.

The best way to utilize the products listed above (non-diminishing or SMAT) is to prime the pad. To do so, take the product and pour some on the pad. Then, rub it in. You are not trying to spread butter on toast! Aggressively rub the product into the pad until the entire surface is covered.


To show the method, I chose M205 and a W9207 finishing pad.
StandardPad.jpg


Below is an example of a poorly primed pad. As you can see, the product has completely filled in each of the pores. This will waste product and reduce the cut.

Oversaturated.jpg


Here is what a properly primed pad should look like. The pores are not filled with product, but there is still product available in the pores.

Primed.jpg


To give you a better idea of what the pores look like, I took a macro shot of the above pad properly primed with M205.

Macro.jpg



Hope that helps!
Click to expand...
 
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ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Never heard 105 lasting this long, even the new version. This is probably part of your problem, you are inducing marring since you are overworking it.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

4-6 slow passes is about normal for a section IMO.
 
awesome, you guys are great.

i can see how priming the pad like that with this compound will help a lot. that stuff seems to dry real quick. so if i see dust, ive worked it too much?
 
i did not try a 4" pad on the accord, but i tried it on a tonneau cover and it didnt do anything to the oxidation, but i was using the same method as i mentioned above before making this thread.
 
^^Might be right^^^ It usually breaks down alot quicker than 5-6 minutes per panel for me...even in wet, humid, moist weather...usually within 2-3 minutes tops
I move about the same speed with most polishes Ive tried...I differ only on glazes though
 
wow, i was working this stuff in way too long. well thank you all. im going to go back at it.
 
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