Klasse sealant questions/issues/suggestions

[RMarkJr]

alright .. so I have seen a lot of people say its hard to work with... and I have to say .. I agree.

First I tried like it said on the bottle .. on and off .. well if you let it sit too long it is hard to get off for sure. Which is weird becuse why would anyone wait for it to dry like it says when its that hard to remove. Then I put it on and took it off almost right away. That seemed to be a little better.

Then there is this guy here that has posted several times about getting the applicator wet and spray the sealant on the applicator and use that to spread over the panel and to take it off right away.

my question is with that method. One, if you are getting it wet, are you not diluting it? Two, if its wet, is not not hurting the bonding proccess? Three, if you add water, apply, and then take it right off, isnt that hurting the bonding and possibly taking it off as you are removing it due to it being "wet" and not drying on the paint?

also I did try this last method .. but I sprayed the applicator with water a few times and poured the klasse on it a few dots at a time. It seemed ok .. but when the sun went down a bit I could start to see light streaks where it wasnt all the way buffed out .. even though I did small areas and did it right away.

soooo nothing I have tried so far is getting this to come off to where there isnt some sort of streaks left over. This is a metallic grey Accord so its a little darker and these streaks are noticeable.


Thanks for the help.

 

[Route246]

I tried the same things and I couldn't get rid of the iridescent streaks. I was able to minimize them with Optimium quick detailer made from No Rinse and Shine diluted 2 oz to 32oz in a spray bottle. What vehicle did you try this on? Mine is a silver Toyota (made in Japan, not transplanted made in the US). It doesn't work for me.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

alright .. so I have seen a lot of people say its hard to work with... and I have to say .. I agree.


Thanks for the help.

I don't use Klasse Sealant Glaze. I know a lot of people like it and that's what is so great about having lots of options - something for everyone.


Back in 2011 I wrote the below article. I wanted to be SENSITIVE to the Klasse SG product and people that like it so I didn't title the name of the article as a recommendation for Klasse Sealant Glaze BUT I DID WRITE THE ARTICLE WITH THIS PRODUCT IN MIND.


Here's the article...



A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you


Tip: Test to small area first
Anytime you're going to use a wax, paint sealant or coating that is a product you've never used before, especially if you're planning on applying it to the entire car... to get a feel for how the product applies and most important, how it wipes off, first test the product to a small area.

This way you'll be familiar with the application and wipe-off characteristics for the specific product before applying to the entire car.


A small area = about a foot squared
The average size square microfiber towel is 16" by 16", which is a little larger than a foot squared. So for your test section, lay a clean microfiber towel out flat, like this,

Then use this area as a guide as to how large of an area to apply the product onto in order to get a good feel for both the application and wipe-off characteristics of the new-to-you product.


Follow the manufactures directions
Manufactures know their product formulas best so take a moment to read the directions for application and removal on the label and then follow them as recommended.

Waxes and Paint Sealants that dry
If the directions state that you should allow the product to dry to haze before removal then allow the product to dry before removing it.


The Swipe Test
Here's a handy test to check and see if a wax or paint sealant is dry and ready to remove, The Swipe Test


Wipe-on, wipe-off waxes and paint sealants
Some products are formulated to be removed before they dry, these are called wipe-on, wipe-off waxes. If you're using a wipe-on, wipe-off wax then immediately after applying the wax to the entire car go ahead and remove it.


Products vary and climatic conditions vary
The chemistry between products can be very different; some products wipe off a tick on the difficult side while some products wipe off incredibly easy.

Products perform differently in different environmental conditions; a product that applies and remove easily in a humid area may apply and wipe off with great difficulty in another geographical location that's hot and dry.


The idea behind this tip is for you to become acquainted with a product you've never used before in your specific geographical, environmental and climatic location.


For some people, what this may teach them is the importance of applying a thin coating and if you're new to the world of detailing in general and waxing by hand in specific, you might not know 100% exactly what is meant by a thin coating and you don't want to learn what thin means the hard way.

I could have, should have name the article,


A tip for working with Klasse Sealant Glaze if it's your first time

 

[Desertnate]

Klasse SG and AIO will take a little practice no matter which method you use. I applied it just like the instructions on the bottles state. Unfortunately, I had moved on to another product for my LSP when I started to hear about some of the alternate methods used by members here.

I would apply SG to the whole car first and then go around right afterwards and buff it out. I learned applying product so thin you almost can't see it will greatly help with the removal. If you get it on too heavy it will be a bear to get off. Thinner does not equal greater durability/protection with Klasse. I also kept a bottle of Sonus Spritz on hand. Legend says it contains Klasse SG in it and was designed specifically to complement Klasse AIO and SG. I don't know if that is true, but I did find it worked very well in buffing out stubborn spots and other QD duties for a car covered in Klasse SG.

Experiment and see what works best for you.

 

[jkrig]

I don't use Klasse SG anymore but when I did here was the technique I borrowed and it worked flawlessly for me, as Desertnate said less the less you apply the easier it it to buff out but here's how I did it in case you get a lil heavy handed with application.....assuming you have an applicator for the product mf, foam doesn't really matter I preferred mf, and several mf towels for removal...I would apply the product to my applicator then evenly spread over the panel or you could do the entire car since it goes on quick and takes a few minutes to cure properly....after curing and you are ready for removal, take mf towel and get it damp with your favorite QD, (I used properly diluted D114)...then wipe a panel or section with the QD dampened towel....followed by a wipe with a dry mf towel and you should be good to go......

 

[soobaroo]

My first experience with klasse sealant was a nightmare. After smearing it around till my arms were sore I tried the wetting it method. Used Blackfire sealant spray because that's what I had. Once the wipe off towel got good and damp it came off reasonably easy but certainly not easy. Back around with a dry towel and it looked good. Pulled it out in the sun and spent another 1/2 hr wiping off everything I missed. Thanks but I'll stick with WGDGPS.

 

[RMarkJr]

I think I kinda improved on the Klasse a bit. I am determined to get stuff to work well. as a detailer I think its important to be able to be versed in different products .. hard or not.

sooo what I did today was go to walmart to look for a small bottle .. couldnt find one .. so I bought a small bottle of deet

then I went to walgreens... saw a bottle of bod spray, saw the fine mist out of that sprayer and got it.

I then poured both of them out


the deet was a bad idea .. so oily, there was no washing that out, too bad because that would have been perfect.

the bod sprayer works great after washing it out really well.

so now I sprayed 2 to 3 sprays onto one of those microfiber circle pads and did a section. I spread it out as far as I could go till it about disappeared, waited about a minute, or just a bit less, and wiped it off with a microfiber towel.

From there I held the applicator at about an extended arms length away and sprayed the klasse onto it so it just misted the pad, enough I could feel it on the applicator. I then used that to spread the product. at first I can see where it went on... but I went over it more and more further and further out until I couldnt see those smear lines anymore, and pretty well took it off right away. Since I was applying it and it took about a minute to apply I figure it had been on there long enough


I didnt get the applicator wet first and I didnt use a detail spray to take it off.

so far it looks pretty good. No idea if its on there thick enough or whatnot. But if I can still feel the applicator a little damp then I assume that something is being applied to the paint.

 

[Perfect Circle Auto]

It has been a while since detailing anything really. Researching the market there are so many new products. Having looked into ceramic and hybrid sealants, Klasse seems to have similar results protection wise. Certainly was a difficult product to remove. The results though look pretty damn good. Not sure what route I will take, but Klasse is still in contention. With the QD advice I may just try it out one more time.