Klasse twins 1st use / impressions

Don M

Don M

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I got my order from Autogeek a few weeks ago (I was having forum issues and couldn't post about it then though) I picked up the Klasse twins and while I've used the AIO before (and don't know why I quit!) I've never used the SG.

Right before vacation I was able to use the pair on my car and wow, I think I've found my go to waxes. I started with a polishing pad at about 4.7 on the PC and rubbed the AIO like you would use a compound and were trying to remove swirls and continued buffing until the AIO was almost gone. The residue removed easily and left a near perfect shine. Next was the SG. I tried using a lightly damp applicator by hand, but it was a bit too damp and I used a hair too much SG so I got bit with the PITA removal. I had to use the "like dissolves like" method to get the SG off the first panel, but after that, the applicator dried out more and absorbed a bit more SG, so I literally only had to use drops to reapply the SG to the applicator for the next panel.

I applied the SG to one panel at a time, then removed it with a MF cloth. The whole process went fairly quickly and easily and when I was done, after taking a step away from the car a few minutes, I was amazed at the gloss and depth of color my SS red paint had.

We went on vacation and after 500 miles and a solid week of nightly rains (the vacation wasn't ruined, during the day it was sunny and HOT) and the rain actually washed off the dirt and bugs collected on the trip. While still on vacation, I decided to put a second coat of SG on the car (yes I took the wax with me on vacation, and trust me, I got laughed at for it). After wiping the latest rain off the car, I applied the 2nd coat of SG, which applied and removed like a dream. The second coat actually made the car look better and I think that the high temps and the hot sun might have 'baked' the SG onto the paint because after sitting for a few days it looked even better.

When I got home, I took it to the detail shop where I learned the trade and showed my ex-boss the car and told him that it was a two-step process. He was shocked and even said "Wow"...he uses a 5-step process and charges between $450 for a car the size of my Suzuki Aerio up to over $850 for a full sized SUV. He couldn't believe that $65 worth of products could come so close to his process. Granted my car is far from abused, but I will admit that it has been neglected lately.

I wish I had a camera to show off my ride, but I'll have to wait to see if I can borrow my MIL's camera. Even now looking out at the car, which has been driven another 350 miles and has been rained on and pooed on by a stupid Cardinal that tried to fight itself in the reflection, the car LOOKS like it has just been washed (YES, I cleaned off the poo).

I definitely see me using Klasse for a long time coming, thanks Autogeek for carrying this product. :dblthumb2:
 
Glad to hear that you enjoy it. I also use the klasse twins. It's actually not that difficult to use once you learn how to apply it. The end results speak for themselves. Keep enjoying the product.
 
Klasse is quite amazing if applied correctly, it can easily outshine most products and last a full year with three coats (or longer if you maintain the sealant by adding a new coat every six months). There is an outstanding article by Ivan Rajic on his method of applying Klasse, see below. The only modification I would do to his application is the mix, use 8 oz of Meguires 34, 3 oz of distiled water, 3 oz of Klasse High Gloss Sealant (Yes, just poor it right into the spray bottle). You can use this mix to refresh the gloss/sealant latter. If you follow his directions it is just as easy to remove as any of the newer polymer sealants out on the market today but with a proven long durability history.


Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (KSG) Guide and Review

:props:
 
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I always let the SG sit on the entire car before I buff it out, just to make sure it has had time to cure a bit. I then buff it out with no real issues.

For places where either the AIO or the SG don't buff out easily, I keep Sonus Acrylic Spritz on hand (yes, I know I can probably mix up a similar forumla on my own) and put a REALLY light mist down over the offending area. From there it buff's right out.
 
Desertnate said:
I always let the SG sit on the entire car before I buff it out, just to make sure it has had time to cure a bit. I then buff it out with no real issues.

For places where either the AIO or the SG don't buff out easily, I keep Sonus Acrylic Spritz on hand (yes, I know I can probably mix up a similar forumla on my own) and put a REALLY light mist down over the offending area. From there it buff's right out.
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Your the 1st person I've read about that leaves it on the whole car and then remove....w/o an issue too, planets must be lined up for you, LOL!

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I've applied it to the whole car via DA very thin also. No problems buff it off.
 
509IS350 said:
I've applied it to the whole car via DA very thin also. No problems buff it off.
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I can't imagine using a DA to apply KSG as it goes on so thin to begin with, using a DA would literally make it invisible, LOL!

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I also use a da to apply. It makes it really easy. I saw a video somewhere, and stole the idea

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I'm not doubting that using a DA works to apply KSG because there's people who have done it but because it goes on so thin and the DA moves much faster than your hand ever will, how do you know when you've applied all of it? Keeping the pad damp and doing it by hand you can see the water/product thinning out, not so much with a machine.

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I tried using a DA for applying KSG but I could not get a good application felling from it. It felt and looked like it was taking up the coating that was being put down. KAIO however I would only recommend being applied with a DA, works great.


Just try the applying KSG with a micro fiber covered sponge, wait an hour and then spray the above mentioned mix. It comes off as a dream. Just make sure to follow up with a dry micro fiber cloth to remove any residue.


Like I said before the mix makes a great finish refresher as it will add a small layer back to the finish. It also makes for a great general purpose cleaner. Check out this picture of an old Jeep that I applied the mix to the hood to see if it adds protection. Not only did the mix clean the paint but also added a nice very thin coat of Klasse.



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I'm starting to see a trend here w/ appoying KSG to the entire car, let it sit and then use a spritz orf something to remove it. I'm sure the results are there and I can't see it really hurting the quality of KSG. I have several "custom" QD's to use, maybe I'll try thos method and see how it goes.

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The first time I used it, I let it sit on the car for 45 min. After that I wiped the car down. The parts where I got a little too much I just used a spritz of QD to the MF towel and wiped it off.

The second time I used it, I used the sprayer method. I sprayed it and wiped it off. This method was easier to do as it's easier to see how much product is used. Maybe next time I will let it sit longer on the car with this method before I wipe it down.

As of right now I have not noticed much difference in terms of performance between each method.
 
I just used KAIO the first time last week and had some problems. I was detailing a 12' enclosed trailer, black oxidized enamel paint. I used clay to clean it first but when I applied the KAIO, It left the paint shinier but streaked. I tried using my DA, and applying it by hand with similar results. I dampened the pad with speed shine when applying the product. In spots it was a bear to remove. I use GG speed shine to assist with removal. The customer was ok with the end result but I was not.

Any pointers?
 
freddie46 said:
I just used KAIO the first time last week and had some problems. I was detailing a 12' enclosed trailer, black oxidized enamel paint. I used clay to clean it first but when I applied the KAIO, It left the paint shinier but streaked. I tried using my DA, and applying it by hand with similar results. I dampened the pad with speed shine when applying the product. In spots it was a bear to remove. I use GG speed shine to assist with removal. The customer was ok with the end result but I was not.

Any pointers?
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KAIO is a chemical only cleaner, if there are heavy defects such as severe oxidation/scratches, you will need to use a cleaner with some abrasive action first.
 
Wow, KAIO a "bear to remove", guess there's a first for everything. Maybe it was being worked in the sun or way too much, other than that, I can't see why KAIO being hard to work with.

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I guess I should have said "Bear to remove" without streaks. The product came off ok; it was the results that was disappointing. Yes I was working in the shade.

The trailer manufacturer said no abrasives. That's why I was using Klasse to begin with. The enamel paint is very thin over aluminum.
 
I've only found either of the Klasse products a "bear to remove" under three conditions.

1) I put it down to thick
2) I was in the sun and/or the surface of the car was too warm
3) Both 1 and 2

Either way, a little mist of Spritz and all was well again.

You might be careful when using QD's other than Sonus when applying the Klasse products. They are a little picky with regrards to what they will bond with. You can probably top SG with just about anything...as long as you don't plan on going back and putting down another layer of SG. Same may go using the AIO. If you're using a carnauba based QD while working the AIO, it might be causing issues too.
 
ClayR said:
Klasse is quite amazing if applied correctly, it can easily outshine most products and last a full year with three coats (or longer if you maintain the sealant by adding a new coat every six months). There is an outstanding article by Ivan Rajic on his method of applying Klasse, see below. The only modification I would do to his application is the mix, use 8 oz of Meguires 34, 3 oz of distiled water, 3 oz of Klasse High Gloss Sealant (Yes, just poor it right into the spray bottle). You can use this mix to refresh the gloss/sealant latter. If you follow his directions it is just as easy to remove as any of the newer polymer sealants out on the market today but with a proven long durability history.


:props:
Click to expand...

I don't see in the article where he made a mixture of qd and ksg. If I follow your recipe, can I use it for the first application?
 
The combo of Meg's 34/water/KSG sounds interesting to say the least, similar to what I read here some time ago about adding 1 oz of KSG to a made up batch of QD using your favorite rinseless wash. I recently took that a bit further and added 2 oz of KSG, an entire bottle of TW rinseless wash into an empty gallon jug and then topping w/ water with great success, a "super QD" if you will, modified spray wax or whatever you wanna call it but I can tell you this, works great for me! I need to try Ivan's way as its much, much more concentrated, doesn't hurt to try new things, its what got me to the point where I'm at right now:-)

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@Klasse Act I'm confused. so this recipe is just a qd? I still need to apply my ksg the conventional way and use this Klasse qd mixture as a way for easy removal and buffing?
For some reason, I was thinking that this mixture could be used for applying the ksg for for the first time ie, wash > clay > Klasse AIO > KSG/#34 mixture> remove residue and buff with #34
 
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