Lawn Care (Sod)

NoleFan said:
I just saw the Milorganite, looks like good stuff. I may go that route and just work on my watering.

I like the tuna can idea. I may be watering too frequently and not long enough, as I have it set for roughly 15 minutes each zone every morning.
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junk also,I've bought every kind of grass product there is.Just hire a pro such as true green totally different stronger long lasting product.The guys around town who claim there grass experts use inferior products.
 
If you are going to go the DIY route, I've had better results using Lesco.

I've had better results using a separate weed killer that you spray instead of getting a weed & feed type product. Even then, it won't compare with the potency of commercial grade products that are not available at large home improvement stores.

You may be able to get some good products at a local shop that specializes in garden supplies. I was able to find a local small lawn care shop that had a real good weed killer but was rather expensive but it worked great.
 
eaglefan said:
Go to a local nursery that sells sod. To early to put anything down now. Ask them what to put down and when. Ive used Scotts twice in the last 20 years and every time I get more weeds then before I started. For me and the 2 yards I have had with centipede, Ferti-lome has been top notch.
As for bugs and mole crickets, Tel-star is what you want, golf courses use the same stuff but renamed for commercial use. My experience anyway
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exactly,and in town grass pros other than a reputable company use some water down grass products that promote weeds.
 
Water deep, but not frequently. This will promote better and deeper root growth. It's not even hot outside so watering more than once a week is probably a bit much.
 
Going to switch to once a week watering. What should I shoot for .5" to 1"?
 
NoleFan said:
Going to switch to once a week watering. What should I shoot for .5" to 1"?
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Here's some good info on Centipede grass. They recommend about 0.5" of water every 3 to 5 days.

HGIC 1215 Centipedegrass Maintenance Calendar : Extension : Clemson University : South Carolina


Here's some good advice from 70fastback:

70fastback said:
I think you are watering way too often, and would try every other day for 45 minutes. The grass will tell you if it needs more water. Watch for the the grass blade to fold up.
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I was watering my lawn too much. Now I wait for the blades to start folding up or when I start seeing spots that look a little dry and then I water.
 
1" of water per week unless you have sandy soil, then .5" every 3 days.
 
Problem with the spray stuff, being do it yourself or a company, what happens if it rains after application? Apply to send a soil sample to UF, they will tell you what to put down.
 
eaglefan said:
Problem with the spray stuff, being do it yourself or a company, what happens if it rains after application? Apply to send a soil sample to UF, they will tell you what to put down.
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When I was spraying it myself, I would watch the weather forecast and spray when the temperature was right and when no rain was expected for a few days.

The stuff that TruGreen uses is normally waterproof within a few hours so it doesn't matter if it rains after that.
 
Hammer77 said:
Hey I am not an expert by any means, and up here in Michigan I got Kentucky Blue grass. So different type of grass and climate. However I take great pride in my lawn. Like Pdqgp said, I would use starter fertilizer to promote root growth. Stay away from Weed and Feed for now. What you want is Phosphorus, the middle number of the 0-0-0. If I were you I would use the starter fert. now, try to plan in out to not put down anything in the summer, too hot especially in the south. Then maybe try to attack some of the weed growth in the fall, or next spring. A good plush dense lawn will crowd the weeds out.
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Totally agree with your call on the middle number. I remember what each number is with this - up, down and all around. First number (up) - leaf blade growth. Second number (down) - root growth. Third number (all around) - spread. While a licensed agronomist might be OCD enough to argue with my method, it's close enough and works for me.

I have a neighbor who got tired of his sod looking bad several years after he installed it. He was literally able to peel the sod back off the lawn because there was little root growth.
 
Go organic fertilizer and you do not have to worry about what the content is and you can apply it any time of the year without fear of burning your lawn.
 
Go talk to a local golf course superintendent. He will know what the grass will need where you live.
 
Listen to GSKR I have been in lawn care my entire life and the products available today do not work as good because of EPA and lawsuits. Call True Green and concentrate on enjoying cars.
 
timsatx said:
Personally I would stay away from anything except for organic fertilizer. You also stand much less chance of damaging your lawn, as you alluded to in the OP. Do a search for places near you that would sell it. You can also think of Beneficial Nematodes for you lawn if you have bug problems like fleas, ants and June bugs.
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Check out this very informative lawn/gardening forum. aroundtheyard.com Forums

And I agree. Stay away from chemical firts as they're mostly salts. Hit up your local feed store for ground corn meal & soybean meal. This pOOp stuff is amazing but can stink when wet at first. Milorganite | Home Page
This is Zoysia in Western MD with no chemical firts
 
Look for a 20-20-10 ratio, the best out there INMHO. Apply every 4-6 weeks. Even when hot. Dry felt is water activated an it self won't burn the lawn. Apply at the proper rate, improper rate can burn it. Get a good spreader, not the hand crank one. Water your lawn early in the Am only with an inch of water. Never water at night it can lead to disease/fungus issues. Double pass core aerate in the fall with an over seeding.
 
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