Long Lasting Sealant/Coating

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bryanviper

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Hey guys,

So I applied cquartz UK to my moms new car last year however it did not last the full year mostly because she does not maintain it & our winters with all the salt and brime they put on the streets dont help.
So about a month ago I gave the car a good wash/detail since it was not beading water anymore & I applied CarPro Reload thinking it would last around the 6 months it says on the bottle. Well I can already tell its almost gone as beading has dropped off significantly.

So since I dont plan on ceramic coating the car anymore as its just going to be a waste because its not maintained and barely washed I thought I would just use carpro reload however that has not been the best, do you guys think Geyon CanCoat will last longer? or will it be similar results as Reload? I'm looking at something easy/quick to apply when I can every few months that will provide some protection.

Also thinking maybe Collinite 845 but I think Geyon CanCoat would last longer?

Thanks
 
Iron x it and wash with Reset.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Are you planning to polish off the current coating to apply one of those other two options?

If it’s not maintained that well maybe a good old sealant is the way to go instead of a coating or semi coating like CanCoat.
 
A good decon wash can revive the coating that's on the car. I would use both IronX and TarX with a couple of washes with Reset. A coating can look done but is often just clogged up with different contaminants if not well maintained. Then when you have cleaned it and see what behavior you have left. Either apply Reload or CanCoat to get it to behave great again. This way you don't need to be polishing it again. And the reload or CanCoat gets a clean surface to be applyied on. Which in either case is needed to have a as clean as possible surface to apply it on to get as long of longevity as possible from them. And a thorough decon wash is less time consuming than a polishing it too. But that is just how I see it. And I like to have the paint clean to get a long longevity from my LSP and don't lock in any contaminants when applying them.
 
Another option to look at after deep cleaning the coating is an application of BlackFire Si02 Sealant. There’s been some reviews that is lasts longer & easier to apply than a Reload. The video from Mike had a simple quick application.

BLACKFIRE SiO2 Spray Sealant
 
Try this...


SONAX Polymer Net Shield - Closest thing to a coating without being a coating



For what it's worth, the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR as to how long anything lasts on car paint comes down to how the paint is TOUCHED after the application of whatever it is you're using.


This means washing the surface gently with soft clean wash mitts and in the case of a ceramic paint coating, hand washing or touchless washing often.


:)
 
No I was not going to polish anything off as I dont believe anything is left on the paint from it (or very little) However based on what others have said I should try to decontaminate it and wash it as that may revive it.

Yes was looking at sealants as I dont want to ceramic coat it anymore as it wont be taken care of.

Thanks,

The Guz said:
Are you planning to polish off the current coating to apply one of those other two options?

If it’s not maintained that well maybe a good old sealant is the way to go instead of a coating or semi coating like CanCoat.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks I will have to give that a try.

SWETM said:
A good decon wash can revive the coating that's on the car. I would use both IronX and TarX with a couple of washes with Reset. A coating can look done but is often just clogged up with different contaminants if not well maintained. Then when you have cleaned it and see what behavior you have left. Either apply Reload or CanCoat to get it to behave great again. This way you don't need to be polishing it again. And the reload or CanCoat gets a clean surface to be applyied on. Which in either case is needed to have a as clean as possible surface to apply it on to get as long of longevity as possible from them. And a thorough decon wash is less time consuming than a polishing it too. But that is just how I see it. And I like to have the paint clean to get a long longevity from my LSP and don't lock in any contaminants when applying them.
Click to expand...
 
bryanviper said:
Thanks I will have to give that a try.
Click to expand...

Ebg18t and Mike Phillips has some great options too if you would try some of them out.

One thing that I forgot to mentioned. Is after the decon if the paint is still rough and has alot of bonded contaminants. It's a judgement call if it's so much of contaminants that you feel it's necessary to be clayed. And how much of the coating is still left is also something to think of. If you do decide to clay it. It's not gonna be so much of coating left if any. But it's fine to apply any LSP over the rest of the coating left. And the claying will get easier to do after the decon. So think that you still have a benefit to decon and see where it gets you. A water spot remover could help you some too if you have that on it. And even if you don't always see the mineral deposits and lime scale it can be something that is spread wide and not always in spots. I don't do a water spot removal on LSP that is in the end. Just mentioned it cause it could be something like that on the paint. And you have the economical to consider sometimes. But if you want to not polishing the car I would be as thorough as possible with the decon wash. And with both TarX and IronX you can sometimes need to apply it twice to the most stubborn sections to get all off the car. That's something you will see. And Carpro TarX and IronX is both in top of the effectiveness they have if compareing them to other brands. Some other brands is also great and in the same league as Carpro.

1. Rinse off the loose dirt and wash with carpro reset.
2. Apply TarX to an area you can handle so it's not drying on the paint. Wipe it off gently with mf towels or if you have a PW use the water pressure to clean it with.
3. Apply IronX and it's like above. Just think that the less water amount on the paint the less it dilute it. And if you dry the car before and you don't need to be thorough. You get the most out of them. Then letting them dwell for the recommended time is also important to the effectiveness from them.
4. Wash with Reset again and dry the car.
5. Test the water behavior and hos it's works on the different panels. Dry and apply the LSP of choice.
 

I will just add my past experience with CQ org and CQUK as both were very similar.

After the first winter in Ohio the lower panels were loosing their beading and sheeting. A regular RESET wash cleared it up and everything was fine. I used ReLoad on a regular basis and didn’t thinking anything of it.

After the 2nd winter and basically 2 years I thought the coating was dead and I was going to clean, polish and repost my CQ org with the newer at that time CQUK 1.0. So I started with a a regular wash and the top of he vehicle start to show beading and it got me thinking. So I did a strong RESET wash at nearly double the rate. In doing this and an IronX and TarX application the beading and sheeting came back in the entire vehicle. I realized I didn’t really need to redo the coating just clean it better a little more often.

At that time though I did a light polish of some minor areas and then crave the entire care an Eraser wipe down and went ahead and add 2 coat of CQUK. Now an additional 3 years later it is still there and going strong.
 
Nice good to know, Sounds like that's all I need to do then based on what you said and the other in the group.

Thanks

TroyScherer said:

I will just add my past experience with CQ org and CQUK as both were very similar.

After the first winter in Ohio the lower panels were loosing their beading and sheeting. A regular RESET wash cleared it up and everything was fine. I used ReLoad on a regular basis and didn’t thinking anything of it.

After the 2nd winter and basically 2 years I thought the coating was dead and I was going to clean, polish and repost my CQ org with the newer at that time CQUK 1.0. So I started with a a regular wash and the top of he vehicle start to show beading and it got me thinking. So I did a strong RESET wash at nearly double the rate. In doing this and an IronX and TarX application the beading and sheeting came back in the entire vehicle. I realized I didn’t really need to redo the coating just clean it better a little more often.

At that time though I did a light polish of some minor areas and then crave the entire care an Eraser wipe down and went ahead and add 2 coat of CQUK. Now an additional 3 years later it is still there and going strong.
Click to expand...
 
SWETM said:
[...] And you have the economical to consider sometimes. [...]
Click to expand...

I've personally never done a coating decon.... but like SWETM brought up sometimes I wonder if it's worth the cost to throw everything but the kitchen sink at these coatings to revive them. These iron, tar, and water spot removers are not cheap products to douse your car in. Maybe a strong APC mix is worth a shot. But after that, if we're looking for renewed water behavior wouldn't it be more cost effective to take Mike's recommendation and just add a layer of PNS?
 
bryanviper said:
No I was not going to polish anything off as I dont believe anything is left on the paint from it (or very little) However based on what others have said I should try to decontaminate it and wash it as that may revive it.

Yes was looking at sealants as I dont want to ceramic coat it anymore as it wont be taken care of.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Sure it won't hurt to decon wash it. Also just because the coating is not beading anymore does not mean that it is not still on the surface. GTechniq even mentions this themselves. That is why i was mentioning to fully remove anything remaining, a polish would be the way to go before applying another wax, sealant or coating.
 
DetailZeus said:
I've personally never done a coating decon.... but like SWETM brought up sometimes I wonder if it's worth the cost to throw everything but the kitchen sink at these coatings to revive them. These iron, tar, and water spot removers are not cheap products to douse your car in. Maybe a strong APC mix is worth a shot. But after that, if we're looking for renewed water behavior wouldn't it be more cost effective to take Mike's recommendation and just add a layer of PNS?
Click to expand...

I don't use those specific products. We have alot of different options of tar degreasers here in Sweden. It has been a maintance thing here during the winter months especially for a long time. The tar degreaser I buy is in a 5 liter jug and around 25$. I use it on the lower side panels and the back of the car only. Then as you wrote we have a kind of APC too. But it's made for apply on the car and not inside of it. It's an alkaline based degreaser and also known in the UK as a traffic film remover (TFR). These has come out as a prewash foam too. The one I used alot before you can foam on the car too. But is more runny foam since it's not haveing any foaming chemicals in it. It's also priced around 25$ but get more economical since you dilute it at 1:20 in the winter months. And 1:40 in the summer months to desolve bugs and roadgrime. This is applyied all over the car. It's ph level undiluted is 13 so a high alkaline product. Since the prewash foams both the TFR and ph neutral came to be popular this has been at a higher price point than before. The tar degreaser is used in the winter months almost every wash. Since the road salt has an ability to have the wet longer before they dry. Road salt is used on gravel roads to hold the dust down. Don't know the chemistry behind it but in some way road salt binds water and evaporate much slower and have a lower freezing point too. That's why it's used on roads. This sludge is also desolveing the oil based road film that is bonded on the roads. And is like you constantly drive on roads that has been rained on. There for you get the car covered with this and a regualar car soap has not the ability to desolve it. But you pick it up with your wash mitt. And oil based grime is not water soluble. So when you rinse your wash mitt this oil based grime is often left on it and rubbed again on the paint if 2bm is used.

This is how we have gotten to handle winter months with alot of road salt on the roads. In summer months it's only a prewash foam or an alkaline based degreaser we use. Then a bucket wash afterwards.

The LSP we use needs to be chemical resistant cause of the prewash method we use. Here are some wax and sealants that are popular to use. Collinite 476s, Ultima Paint Guard Plus (my favorite sealant), Menzerna Powerlock, fk1000p, Sonax PNS BSD combo. Those are some that comes to mind. An organic wax is out cause it will desolve it. And coatings is very resistant against chemicals and the toppers too.

Is it worth it to do decons before applying a LSP? IMO it is, cause you get a clean paint to apply it on. It's an evaluation of the kind of dirt you have on the paint. And it varies which environment you live in. Since different kind of chemicals desolves different kind of dirt. You need the right chemical product to handle it. If you are going to clay it's also a benefit to decon before. The claying gets easier to do if you have alot of contaminants. And the risk of clay marring gets less. The decon steps is not something you do to often. And a well maintained paint stretch the times you doing them. This last winter I washed the car 5 times if you count in the winter prep. I used Gyeon Wet Coat and did reapply it twice and one time a Sio2 car soap and one time a glossenhancer that uses Si+. So with the glossenhancer I have noticed it has quite a good of protection in it too. Applyied it in january and april and it was performing great middle of august. Between april and august I did not use any toppers and only washed it 4 times during that time. Now I started to feel bonded contaminants. And it's was clayed and polished april 2017. So with Ultima Paint Guard Plus and various toppers through april-november and Gyeon Wet Coat and the glossenhancer november-august. I have used a IronX product in november and april for season prep. And think it has gone good till I feel a mechanical decon is needed.

Just added how I maintain my car. And to see how you can do it in a harsher winter environment. You can do it in many ways to get to your personal preference. My goal is to have as little bonded contaminants as possible. And minimize the risk of wash indused swirls. The problem I have that I need to polish the car know. Is a law that says we don't get to start driving with any snow on the vehicals here in Sweden. And since I have the car outside 24/7 I need to brush it of. That got me to swirl up the paint on some parts of the car. It's a Kia cee'd with a soft clearcoat. I try to think of a way to get the snow and ice off the car as gentle as I can. The best solution would be a heated garage. And if parked outside it's to leave a little snow and ice behind so the brush not touching the paint. The problem I got was the Wet Coat was so slick so it would glide off the car. With a combo of melted and freezed ice it was a pain to handle. And at the same time following the law LOL.
 
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