Long Term Review Spar vs Opti Pro **PICS**

jrs1418 said:
I always try to cross hatch my sanding from stage to stage. So go one direction with your first sanding stage, then cross it with your next. That way when you inspect, if you see sanding marks going in the opposite direction you were just sanding in, you know you missed and need to keep sanding.
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Ok so just to ensure I get this right...when you say "stage to stage" are you referring to each grit you're going to use during the wet sand? So i.e., stage 1, sand in one direction with 1000 grit, stage 2 sand in opposite direction with 2000 grit, stage 3 sand in opposite of stage 2 with 3000 grit? That's my current practice but want to make sure I'm not reading it that you're doing different directions for the same grit. Thanks!
 
Yes u got it right. If you inspect thoroughly in between sanding stages and touch up as needed, you should finish awesomely.

But i reccommend you try those purple wool pads in 4" and m101 to replace your sanding... so far ive had results equal to sanding from #800 and up as far as oxidation removal.
 
jrs1418 said:
I think Mr Fusion said, OC wont hide sanding marks and its wasn't designed to I'm sure. If you see sanding marks, its because you didn't inspect properly in between sanding stages before polishing.

I always try to cross hatch my sanding from stage to stage. So go one direction with your first sanding stage, then cross it with your next. That way when you inspect, if you see sanding marks going in the opposite direction you were just sanding in, you know you missed and need to keep sanding.

I'll also let u guys in on a little secret. I STOPPED SANDING HEADLIGHTS!!!! Yes thats right, i only break out the sand paper if there is some DEEP damage, or there's a previously applied coating like clear coat thats been delaminating.

I've been using those 3" purple wool pads with M101 on my PC and i promise it'll clean up the oxidation just as good as sanding. As a matter of fact, on 2 separate headlights that had delaminating clear coat, I've gone from Megs #500 sanding disks by machine, to #800grit by hand, to purple wool & 101 on my PC and its gotten out ALL the sanding marks in less time than sanding up to 2-3000 grit. So that means that your purple wool + 101 = up to #800 grit of abrasiveness, which is what I used to START sanding at on most headlights. I've saved so much time by doing this!
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I need to move to Hawaii..............here in Florida, no bones about it......you HAVE TO SAND THEM!!!
 
You couldnt be more wrong Part-Timer

UV Index | SunWise | US EPA

2nd image down, clear as day, shows the year round UV bombardment we get out here compared to FL. In case u didnt know, we're closer to the equator. lol.

But I'm not here to change your mind... keep on sanding man and hope your competition doesn't try my method either.
 
jrs1418 said:
Yes u got it right. If you inspect thoroughly in between sanding stages and touch up as needed, you should finish awesomely.

But i reccommend you try those purple wool pads in 4" and m101 to replace your sanding... so far ive had results equal to sanding from #800 and up as far as oxidation removal.
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Ok awesome, thanks Jrs...definitely gonna have to try the M101/pad combo!


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jrs1418 said:
You couldnt be more wrong Part-Timer

UV Index | SunWise | US EPA

2nd image down, clear as day, shows the year round UV bombardment we get out here compared to FL. In case u didnt know, we're closer to the equator. lol.

But I'm not here to change your mind... keep on sanding man and hope your competition doesn't try my method either.
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Just wanted to chime in and say that all plastics are not made equal. I've had success with M105/M101 and a MF or Wool pad (even straight foam) on some plastic lenses, while others truly required 500 grit paper for anything to happen at a worthwhile speed.
 
jrs1418 said:
You couldnt be more wrong Part-Timer

UV Index | SunWise | US EPA

2nd image down, clear as day, shows the year round UV bombardment we get out here compared to FL. In case u didnt know, we're closer to the equator. lol.

But I'm not here to change your mind... keep on sanding man and hope your competition doesn't try my method either.
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So you put up a chart showing the UV index is worse in Hawaii than Florida........I say that I need to move there.............agreeing with you and your chart...........and you tell me that I couldn't be more wrong? So you disagree with what you just said????? I guess that means I'm wrong for agreeing with you.....Hmm?

Anyway,
I'll tell ya what......If you could fly here to Daytona Beach, I'd love to give you a set of Florida Chevy Truck or Impala headlights,.... so I can watch you quickly remove all of the old coating without sanding at all..............because that would be an honest to goodness modern day miracle.......or would take 10 years of "non-sanding" to complete....lol

I remember a guy trying to sell me a kit with square sanding blocks, like you buy at Walmart, and claiming to be able to complete a set of lights in like 5 minutes. I actually bought this just to check it out.....lol All I can say is..... I guess anyone can do their own headlights using toothpaste too.......if that is the quality of work one desires.

As for my competition.......I welcome the challenge....My people have told me about others stopping in to ask for their headlight business,... but they told them that they love my work .........and have for the last 4 years with no intention of changing.

So, all I'm saying is that.......In my experience.....the headlight jobs I do here require sanding and thats what I do. I have seen very few lights that don't require sanding except maybe some older Kia, Toyota and Honda where the coating is completely worn off. Everything else here that I've run into has only the top 1-2" of coating worn off and I FEEL the right way to do it is to remove the whole coating before applying a new one. I know others who are able to just blend in the worn part and apply a new coating.....and thats fine for them.......its just not the way I do it.

I always recommend others to try several methods and find what works best for them and their customers.......and this is no different.
 
It didnt sound (read) that you were agreeing with me, more of that you were saying that headlights here were easy since you NEED to sand them there in FL. I apologize if a misunderstood.

And I agree, some factory coatings NEED to be sanded, as do clear coated headlamps and others with DEEP scratches or damage. Most headlights we see are so bad that there is no factory coatings left. So maybe that's where we differ?

Anyhow, in most cases where there is only a few inches of degraded headlights.. when you compound the oxidation out, if done right there is a very small "noticeable to the trained eye" line where the factory coating starts. And thats good enough for me and my customers.. I just clean them up and Opti-lens over it. No need to charge up a ridiculous fee and spend an hour making it look perfect when 99% of the people wont be able to tell the difference AND they're coated with a professional product designed for that application.. not some stuff made to coat wood that an APC can remove.

But i'll take you up on your challenge.. i wont be in FL anytime soon but my next set of nasty headlights i'll make a vid for you. I can get a nasty headlight taped up, looking new, and Opti-lens'd in under 10 minutes with a porter cable. I'm willing to wager you cant get a nasty headlight taped, sanded, and Spar'd in under 10 minutes.

I remember you mentioning you still use spar, and that Olens isn't worth it for your business. I'm just telling you to keep your mind open.. especially if youre targeting dealerships. One 40cc tube of Olens ($100) will coat at least 20-30 sets maybe more.. and if you can bust out a car in under 20 mins.. you can do a LOT of cars in a day at a dealership. Just saying.

I'll have a vid up in a few days or as soon as this bad weather (RAIN ;) ) clears up
 
I'm born and raised in Miami, FL and was stationed on Oahu, HI from 2010-2013. While Florida has more humidity and higher temps, the UV index is much, much higher in Hawaii. You don't need a chart as proof, you can be outside for an hour and get sunburned no matter your complexion...anyway, the good news is, there's PLENTY of oxidized headlamps in both Florida and Hawaii to go around :xyxthumbs:
 
jrs1418 said:
Here ya go. I was going to do a whole set on vid but we were slammed with cars after all the rain.

If you don't like dubstep/electronic music turn down your
speakers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=147drKMselc&feature=youtu.be
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This proves my point exactly. I never get headlights like that......that can just be buffed out. If I did, I would probably just do the same thing that you are doing. I'll have to post some pics of the kind of lights I get sometime soon.
Anyway......water under the bridge.
Everyone just do whatcha do and be happy.........lol
 
Nice vid JRS...that isn't the Marco Polo Condo's parking garage on Kapiolani Blvd is it??
 
Part-timer said:
This proves my point exactly. I never get headlights like that......that can just be buffed out. If I did, I would probably just do the same thing that you are doing. I'll have to post some pics of the kind of lights I get sometime soon.
Anyway......water under the bridge.
Everyone just do whatcha do and be happy.........lol
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I got ya. We also get headlights like that.. usually on newer cars less than 4 yrs old. But like I said, when buffed out, and only in certain light would you really notice that factory coating line. I just try and blend it the best I can

My purpose of doing headlights is 1) to provide better safety and 2) to improve the look.

99 out of 100 customers would never see that factory line, and if they did wouldnt know what it is. IMO there's no need to chase this line with perfection.
 
I've never used the Opti-Lens - once it is open, what is the shelf life provided it's been resealed properly?

I'd hate to spend that kind of money and have it harden up or go bad on me.

Thanks!
 
You can just polish out every once in a while if needed and apply a OTC paint sealant or wax, and repeat a necessary.

Sanding and coating with a two part clear may be a step up from Spar, but also more expensive and requires more prep/taping/masking.
 
This thread reminds of me opticoating my brothers faded headlights. I sanded off the old cc and applied OC 2.0 to both lights. For some reason it failed on one light as it yellowed within about 6 months, but the other is going on strong for the last few years and looks brand spanken new.
 
timaishu said:
This thread reminds of me opticoating my brothers faded headlights. I sanded off the old cc and applied OC 2.0 to both lights. For some reason it failed on one light as it yellowed within about 6 months, but the other is going on strong for the last few years and looks brand spanken new.
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haha, that sucks. i'd guess 9/10 times it's some sort of prep issue. or it was compromised during initial curing. OR it was removed or almost all removed during application...which i've seen before by aggro rubbing to "level". not on headlights, but on paint.

Opti-Lens is apparently better suited for polycarbonate and formulated specifically for it re: add'l UV inhibitors and such but 2.0 should work as you've described on the second lens.
 
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