Looking at Dewalt DW849

P

Pepperjam

New member
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Hi there I'm new to the forums, and somewhat new to auto detailing. A little background on my situation. I bought my parents 2001 Jetta TDI (black paint) off them earlier this year, I have a close friend that runs an auto body / detail shop so he was showing me the ropes with my long process of restoring the paint. Anyway, I came to love detailing my car and other peoples car and I set a goal to get a DA by January.

I had my eye on the Porter Cable, but I've been interested in the Dewalt as I've always been a fan of the brand. Now my sister's fiance sells cars for a living and he's willing to give me work. I'm looking at needing four cars done in a week, so the heavy duty Dewalt is looking more appealing. However I was reading the description and there is a fairly clear warning against people with inexperience with DAs on the sales page.

If you are not a very skilled detailer or a professional, do not attempt to use this polisher.

I'm a fairly careful guy with my paint, and that's why I've steered clear of DA's till now, I'm wondering if I should start with a gentler DA like the Porter Cable. Or can I just be careful and get away with using the Dewalt. Also, these cars are worth less than $1,000 one has chipping paint, I'm just getting a quick n' dirty detail for sale. Well I just need to know if I can be careful with the dewalt and just start using it. Appologies for the wall of text!

-Dusty
 
i have an 849 and it doesnt compare to the PC, it is good for applying wax, but thats about it. i dont think the throw is nearly as heavy, therefore it oscilates but doesnt rotate that well. my opinion, go with the PC, you will be better off, and i think its cheaper too
 
First off, welcome!

I've never used either the DW849 or the PC, but to set things straight..
The DeWalt has no throw, It's a circular polisher. The 849 is a heavy duty tool that can remove the worst of defects, defects which would laugh at the PC for an hour before they were removed. But as the description say's the 849 is a tool for experienced professionals, of course lots of people have started with a rotary, no reason you couldn't.

My recommendation is that if your even considering paying for the DeWalt, look at the Flex 3401 instead, it is safe and powerful and I love mine. But since your just doing "Quick and dirty details on cars worth $1000 or less" the New PC or Griot's will probably do you just fine.
 
Hi Dusty,

Since the above was your first post, welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:


Check out this thread,

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project


Rotary buffers are great tools and I started my detailing career using a rotary buffer and most of the work I've done in my life has been with my trusty, dusty Makita Rotary Buffer.

That said, for the kind of work you want to do you might be happier with a dual action polisher or a Flex 3401

Give the article I posted a link to a read-through and then after reading it post any questions you might have.


:)
 
Hey guys thanks a bunch for the help, I really appreciate it. So for now I'm going to get the Porter Cable first, then maybe when I get experienced, I'll get a circular polisher as an extra tool in the tool bag.

The only thing that I'm unsure about is the Porter Cable's durability, because I'll have four cars to do in a day the PC's motor is going to be getting worked. Is it a good heavy motor, will it deal with that kind of use?

Thanks again guys!

EDIT> Oh yeah I didn't realize the Flex 3401 was a DA, does that a more durable motor than the Porter Cable?
 
Last edited:
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Both tools are very dependable workhorses and will probably outlast you.


:buffing:
Click to expand...

Okay, my future children will be pleased to hear that.

After looking at this video I'm going to go deep, and get the flex.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfwbVzsphzs]YouTube - Flex XC 3401 VRG vs. Porter Cable 7424 HD[/video]
 
Actually, my very first attempt at paint correction via machine was with the DeWalt on a single stage paint job.

It seems like (reading through these posts) you have been steered to the Flex. From what I have read concerning the Flex, I would totally back that up (don't own one personally). The rotary can be great, but you can achieve the same results with the Flex, and have a longer learning curve. I really like my PCXP too however - but when you I want to spin a wool pad for heavy correction - I have to grab the rotary. The Flex can be used wonderfully with the Purple Foam Wool from what I hear. So, you get the best of both worlds.

DLB
 
There is nothing wrong with learning on a rotary, numerous people have. With any power tool you just need to be patient and use common sense and you will be fine. Maybe a little practice on a pos to get the feel for the rotary and you will be fine. A rotary does everything across the board so there will be no need to bring a few different tools to do a job.
 
i was under the idea that he was talking about the DW443, which is Dewalts random orbital, which doesnt compare to a PC
 
I personally learned on a PC7424 first. I can see people learning on rotary buffers, but from my experience, or lack thereof, I would suggest getting a DA and moving on to a rotary after yo uhave some experience under your belt. I've had my 7424 since around March of '09, done about 15 or more cars, and just now purchased a rotary.

Just my $0.02
 
Pepperjam said:
After looking at this video I'm going to go deep, and get the flex.
Click to expand...

:righton:

ASPHALT ROCKET said:
There is nothing wrong with learning on a rotary, numerous people have. With any power tool you just need to be patient and use common sense and you will be fine. Maybe a little practice on a pos to get the feel for the rotary and you will be fine. A rotary does everything across the board so there will be no need to bring a few different tools to do a job.
Click to expand...

True... And I'm already anxious to start learning on a rotary after, only 4 cars with my Flex 3401 (but don't think I'll never be without it).

highline1164 said:
i was under the idea that he was talking about the DW443, which is Dewalts random orbital, which doesnt compare to a PC
Click to expand...

Ahhh :poke:
 
I would highly suggest you go to a junkyard or a bodyshop & buy $10.00 / $20.00 or even free from a bodyshop that has scrap parts ie: hoods, door panels, trunk lids, etc. Wal-Mart buy a cheap table, set the Practice metal on the table and let the Journey of learning begin. A pc is a great tool & has many wonderful use's, however for deep paint correction the Dewalt & other rotarys w/ a wool pad is the difference that you will see & begin to learn progress on your objective of said task. Practice, Practice Practice!!! I wish you the best & good luck in your new business.:buffing:
 
detaildave said:
I would highly suggest you go to a junkyard or a bodyshop & buy $10.00 / $20.00 or even free from a bodyshop that has scrap parts ie: hoods, door panels, trunk lids, etc. Wal-Mart buy a cheap table, set the Practice metal on the table and let the Journey of learning begin. A pc is a great tool & has many wonderful use's, however for deep paint correction the Dewalt & other rotarys w/ a wool pad is the difference that you will see & begin to learn progress on your objective of said task. Practice, Practice Practice!!! I wish you the best & good luck in your new business.:buffing:
Click to expand...

Thats a good idea! That's how I learned to weld. (granted my welds still look like bird poop)

I might just even do that with the DA but I will do that with the rotary whenever I get that too.
 
I found a used Dewalt 849 off Craigslist a few weeks back for $75. I "learned" how to use it on my wife's old '91 Maxima. It needs a new paint job anyway so wth. Well after the rotary, it no longer needs a new paint job! Sure all the deep scratches and rock chips are still there (and there are plenty) but the paint is now incredibly glossy. Better than it's ever been. Certainly way better results than I was ever able to achieve with my Cyclo.

Roof before:
roof-before.JPG


Roof after:
roof-after.JPG


To get to this level I started with some cheap "extreme cut" polish I got from of Top of the Line a few years back. It's designed to take out 600 grit scratches. I paired that up with a wool pad as yellow foam pads barely made a dent in it. I followed that up with some old 3M Perfect It 2 I had and then on to some light cut polish. A lot of work and time. The hood was much worse than the roof and required a ton of passes but in the end it was worth it. The clearcoat was a total mess. It looked like it was cracking close up. My only regret is not getting a rotary sooner. It obviously requires more care over a DA, but the results speak for themselves.:xyxthumbs:
 
kbohip said:
but the results speak for themselves.:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Anything can look good in a garage. What most Pros do is get the "Sun Shot". In fact I even wrote a little article on how to capture swirls shots in the sun on MOL but I'll recreate for AG today.

If you strip that finished panel, for example, just wash with a strong solution of Dawn, then pull it out into the sun do you see any rotary buffer swirls?

It's pretty easy to get nice shot like that in a garage after using a rotary buffer but if you ONLY finished with a rotary buffer and a wool pad then there's likely rotary buffer swirls, also called holograms and buffer trails.

That's where the DA Polisher comes in to play, after knocking out the correction work with the rotary buffer, you then change the action of the tool, that is switch to a DA Polisher and re-polish the paint and the oscillation action will remove the fine swirls left by the wool pad cutting into the paint in a rotating direction.

Garage shots are nice but they don't really show the true results. An honest picture taken in full, overhead direct sun will usually reveal the holograms.

For example, chances are good these rotary buffer swirls wouldn't show up in a garage, but they sure do in direct, bright sunlight.

DunstonBefore021.jpg




Here's two popular threads on the topic of getting a swirl free finish using only a rotary buffer that have been posted since I came to work for Autogeek. These two threads document two of our forum members trying to get a swirl free finish using only a rotary buffer but it wasn't till they changed the action of the tool, that is one person FINISHED-OUT using a DA Polisher and the other person FINISHED-OUT using a Flex 3401, and it wasn't until then that a swirl free finish was achieved.

What am I doing wrong - Holograms after using the rotary buffer

and

4 part process still has swirls?

It's possible to create a 100% swirl free finish using only a rotary buffer but it requires skill and experience, using the right pads and products and one thing no one can control and that is the paint you're working on has to be at a minimum somewhat polishable. Some paints are easy to work on and some paints just don't polish very well at all and you really need this factor working in your favor if you want to finish out with only a rotary buffer.

I started out learning and using only a rotary buffer, I've spent thousands of hours behind my trusty, dusty Makita so I'm talking from first hand experience. The rotary buffer is a great tool but it's just one type of tool. You would never see a Pro Mechanic with just one tool in his Roll-Around-Tool chest, rather it would be filled with a large selection of tools so he could match the right tool for the job.

With polishing paint the same analogy holds true, sometimes the rotary buffer is the best tool for the job and sometimes a DA Polisher is the best tool for the job, sometimes your hand is the best tool for the job.

If you have a chance to get a quality, brand name rotary buffer at a great price then get it but don't limit yourself to just one tool if you plan on buffing out cars as a hobby, a passion or a business.

:)
 
Just thought I'd add that I have my flex now and its awesome been doing a lot of correction work that I was never able to get out by hand. Only problem I'm having now is that I can't get any spider webs out of my paint, but then I only got it a week ago.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Anything can look good in a garage. What most Pros do is get the "Sun Shot". In fact I even wrote a little article on how to capture swirls shots in the sun on MOL but I'll recreate for AG today.

If you strip that finished panel, for example, just wash with a strong solution of Dawn, then pull it out into the sun do you see any rotary buffer swirls?

It's pretty easy to get nice shot like that in a garage after using a rotary buffer but if you ONLY finished with a rotary buffer and a wool pad then there's likely rotary buffer swirls, also called holograms and buffer trails.

That's where the DA Polisher comes in to play, after knocking out the correction work with the rotary buffer, you then change the action of the tool, that is switch to a DA Polisher and re-polish the paint and the oscillation action will remove the fine swirls left by the wool pad cutting into the paint in a rotating direction.

Garage shots are nice but they don't really show the true results. An honest picture taken in full, overhead direct sun will usually reveal the holograms.

For example, chances are good these rotary buffer swirls wouldn't show up in a garage, but they sure do in direct, bright sunlight.

DunstonBefore021.jpg




Here's two popular threads on the topic of getting a swirl free finish using only a rotary buffer that have been posted since I came to work for Autogeek. These two threads document two of our forum members trying to get a swirl free finish using only a rotary buffer but it wasn't till they changed the action of the tool, that is one person FINISHED-OUT using a DA Polisher and the other person FINISHED-OUT using a Flex 3401, and it wasn't until then that a swirl free finish was achieved.

What am I doing wrong - Holograms after using the rotary buffer

and

4 part process still has swirls?

It's possible to create a 100% swirl free finish using only a rotary buffer but it requires skill and experience, using the right pads and products and one thing no one can control and that is the paint you're working on has to be at a minimum somewhat polishable. Some paints are easy to work on and some paints just don't polish very well at all and you really need this factor working in your favor if you want to finish out with only a rotary buffer.

I started out learning and using only a rotary buffer, I've spent thousands of hours behind my trusty, dusty Makita so I'm talking from first hand experience. The rotary buffer is a great tool but it's just one type of tool. You would never see a Pro Mechanic with just one tool in his Roll-Around-Tool chest, rather it would be filled with a large selection of tools so he could match the right tool for the job.

With polishing paint the same analogy holds true, sometimes the rotary buffer is the best tool for the job and sometimes a DA Polisher is the best tool for the job, sometimes your hand is the best tool for the job.

If you have a chance to get a quality, brand name rotary buffer at a great price then get it but don't limit yourself to just one tool if you plan on buffing out cars as a hobby, a passion or a business.

:)
Click to expand...

I'll have to take a look in the sun to see if I have any swirls. I plan on going over it again anyway when I get the new GG. For my car I'll probably not use the rotary on it. The paint is corrected good enough for me with the Cyclo. It's silver though so who cares anyway.;)
 
kbohip said:
It's silver though so who cares anyway.;)
Click to expand...


I look at threads usually with a little different perspective than some in that I know there are a lot of Lurkers that will read threads on the AG forum and these threads have the potential to be around for decades... with that in mind, it's important that people don't read a thread, look at the picture and then think they can buff out their car's paint using a rotary buffer only and the automatic result will look like the photo you posted in your garage only it will look like that in all light settings.

I've replied to hundreds and probably thousands of questions that go something like this,


Help! Can't get a swirl free finish with my rotary buffer!



So, been there, done that, typed about it for years and will be typing about it for years to come...


:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top