Looking for product advice
- Thread starter gti14
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- #22
It’s tough to decide on what to choose for the coating... I need a compromise of ease of application and durability.
Anyone have experience with the McKee’s coating? Prep seems simple... polish then wipe down with N-914 at 1:8 then apply the coating. This might also be the less expensive route I think.
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Anyone have experience with the McKee’s coating? Prep seems simple... polish then wipe down with N-914 at 1:8 then apply the coating. This might also be the less expensive route I think.
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Not necessarily. Maybe just gyeon cure but you could wash or rinseless as normal and finish with cure or hell even wet coat.
I wouldn’t hesitate to try other things with can coat at the low buy in cost. But if I was doing mohs, IMO, that justifies “both feet first”
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I chose the McKee's route for my first coating. Mainly because of the good reviews, good price (got the complete coating kit with SiO2 wash, Hydro Blue, Iron X, plus paint coating for $80 plus 25% off) easy to use, and would probably do my wifes full size car and my crew cab truck with 1 bottle.
https://www.autogeek.net/mckees-coating-complete-kit.html
I used Nanoskin pad on DA, then Menzerna FG400, and SF3500 for 2 stage prep, then the Mckees N914 wipe. Also used N914 for clay lube. I like that product so far also.
The coating went on easy. Was even able to level a few spots the next morning when I got it into sunlight, spraying a little more coating seemed to activate it and was able to polish it out.
I used a HF DA polisher. It was only my 3rd full correction so I'm still learning but it turned out pretty good.
Time will tell on durability.
The Guz
Well-known member
- Jun 17, 2013
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- 66
If you go with Gloss Coat you can use either opti-seal or opt car wax. It is recommended to use opti-seal 1 hour after the last coat of gloss coat to protect it from water spots while it is curing.
Opti-seal can be used as a drying aid with ONR as well. Same with Opt Car Wax. Optimum came out with their own coating maintenance line that consists of hyper seal which is meant to maintain optimum coatings. It is not recommended to apply to gloss coat until after the curing window of about 7 days.
CanCoat is a great product. It is very easy to apply and it provides a nice finish with some great water behavior. I would say better than gloss coat. Gyeon states in lasts around 6-9 months.
I haven't used the new version of McKee's but it seems like a solid product.
The only thing you need is cure to maintain and reapply cancoat when needed. Simple maintenance which is nice about it.
This is a good plan.
If you really want to try something then I would recommend picking up Gyeon Primer Polish. Fantastic product as a final polish that leaves SiO2 behind in prep for a gyeon coating. I used this on my mom's car followed by cancoat and it makes a sweet combo. If you let it sit overnight you don't need to do a wipe with Gyeon Prep. I did this but still did a light wipe with a prep spray prioer to applying cancoat. If you deiced to apply cancoat right away then follow up with Gyeon Prep once you are done polishing. I picked up the 8 oz bottle which is more than enough to do a few cars.
- Thread starter
- #30
Great information and thanks everyone!
Today I plan to pick up some lake country thin pads, one or two optimum microfiber cutting pads, then hopefully Saturday I will have time to prep the car and test my combos. Then I will order any more pads I may need and also the can coat w/prep.
I am getting excited for this. Definitely have the bug haha
Today I plan to pick up some lake country thin pads, one or two optimum microfiber cutting pads, then hopefully Saturday I will have time to prep the car and test my combos. Then I will order any more pads I may need and also the can coat w/prep.
I am getting excited for this. Definitely have the bug haha
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- #31
So I am going to use this thread to ask questions with this ongoing project.
I did a quick wash tonight so I could clean the car enough to inspect it. There is a lot of staining from not being washed in a while. It came off with the bug sponge but I do not want to scrub a bunch of different sections if I don’t have too.
My question now is what is the strongest soap I can get a hold of to help clean this? Should I just use apc mixed in a wash bucket?
I think it will come out when I clay the car also but would like to get it off beforehand if possible.
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I did a quick wash tonight so I could clean the car enough to inspect it. There is a lot of staining from not being washed in a while. It came off with the bug sponge but I do not want to scrub a bunch of different sections if I don’t have too.
My question now is what is the strongest soap I can get a hold of to help clean this? Should I just use apc mixed in a wash bucket?
I think it will come out when I clay the car also but would like to get it off beforehand if possible.
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- #34
So I started doing some test spots today. Now I’m sure my technique isn’t perfect, but I just wasn’t seeing the results I Wanted. Maybe I am expecting too much.
I started out with a white polishing pad and jescar finishing polish - deff not enough. So I decided to go straight for the microfiber pad I have and jescar compound. I made 6 passes and a relatively slow speed and on speed setting 5, wiped and checked my work and I would say it was about 80% - which I can live with. Polished it out with the white pad and finishing polish and it looked ok, light years better then it was but not as good as I was expecting.
I was using a microfiber pad from Uber, are these decent or should I go ahead and get the megs?
The second test spot was with a foam cutting pad and it was ok but didn’t remove as much as the microfiber pad.
This car is a daily driver and it doesn’t need to be 100% but I would like to get it as nice as I can without devoting a full week to the car.
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I started out with a white polishing pad and jescar finishing polish - deff not enough. So I decided to go straight for the microfiber pad I have and jescar compound. I made 6 passes and a relatively slow speed and on speed setting 5, wiped and checked my work and I would say it was about 80% - which I can live with. Polished it out with the white pad and finishing polish and it looked ok, light years better then it was but not as good as I was expecting.
I was using a microfiber pad from Uber, are these decent or should I go ahead and get the megs?
The second test spot was with a foam cutting pad and it was ok but didn’t remove as much as the microfiber pad.
This car is a daily driver and it doesn’t need to be 100% but I would like to get it as nice as I can without devoting a full week to the car.
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- #36
I still had some light marks, truthfully I can live with the correction I just didn’t get as much gloss as I hoped for. I have some orange thinpro pads so I will give them a try next chance I get.
I had some trouble with the mf pad also, it seemed like it was unbalanced, or seemed to grab and shake the polisher to the point of being very uncomfortable. Also, should I be airing out the pad after each section?
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I had some trouble with the mf pad also, it seemed like it was unbalanced, or seemed to grab and shake the polisher to the point of being very uncomfortable. Also, should I be airing out the pad after each section?
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Try the orange thinpro in place of the mf step. Also, don’t overload it. You could be hyperlubricating.
Yes, especially with a mf pad blow it out after each section when compounding and change pads every panel or two depending on size.
Vibration with the mf pad, I’m not familiar with Uber pads but it sounds like excessive product on the pad.
By marks do you mean haze or actual scratches/small pin pokes?
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Did you prime the mf pad?
Pin pokes may be actual indentations in the clear from debris and may not be able to be removed. My 2001 f350 test hood has a ton of them.
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