looking for the one go-to-wax

I would suggest OCW as well with everyone else. Not to make you spend even more money, but it really will be money well spent. Lasts months, looks great, takes only minutes to apply, uses very little, and obscenely cheap for the gallon.

But of the ones you have up there, the collinites. But I don't know why Colli 476s doesn't get that much love up here? It's definitely a nice, durable paste wax. 845 is easier to apply but not that much easier than 476s; still goes on very well and melts very easily, as opposed to some of the more stiff and more expensive waxes (respectively more expensive; like max wax. looks nice of course but its definitely a harder wax than 476)
 
Collinite 845, 915 or 476...

I'd go with 915.... I cannot believe what this has done to my silver Acadia.
In my short time here, it's amazing what people swear by. I hear many different endorsements. But that's OK. One of the many reasons I love this place.

I'll find what works for me, and go with it. But I appreciate all of the banter. Without that, I wouldn't know about a lot of products.

At least you guys dont argue like computer people. You help each other.
 
I would suggest OCW as well with everyone else. Not to make you spend even more money, but it really will be money well spent. Lasts months, looks great, takes only minutes to apply, uses very little, and obscenely cheap for the gallon.

But of the ones you have up there, the collinites. But I don't know why Colli 476s doesn't get that much love up here? It's definitely a nice, durable paste wax. 845 is easier to apply but not that much easier than 476s; still goes on very well and melts very easily, as opposed to some of the more stiff and more expensive waxes (respectively more expensive; like max wax. looks nice of course but its definitely a harder wax than 476)
Posts like this make me think this could go on forever. There is no ONE answer. There are many answers.
 
If you really want to dazzle someone try claying then use a paint cleaner before applying either waxes. Prepping the finish is where 80% of your success comes from....


Very well said Bobby.


To the OP, if you don't have an electric polisher like the Porter Cable, then seriously consider stepping up to machine polishing and then applying the wax.

The Human Hand simply cannot compete when it comes to creating maximum gloss and clarity from a modern clear coat finish.

Like Bobby stated, prep work is key to the end results. Everyone asks this question,

"How long will brand X last"

In fact, I wrote an article a using that question for the subject and then provided the answer, I'll post it in my next reply.


There are multiple answers as to how long any product will last but here's the first technical reason that answers the question,

How long ANY wax, paint sealant or coating will last depends upon how well the surface is prepared to accept the wax, paint sealant or coating.

And to perfectly prepare the paint to accept a protective coating, especially modern clear coat, you simply cannot beat machine polishing.

Modern polishers like the Porter Cable 7424XP, the Griot's and Meguiar's versions are easy to use and for the most part, completely risk free.


But like Bobby recommended, if you don't own a machine you can still use a light polish, paint cleaner or what's called a pre-wax cleaner and these types of products will help to prepare the paint surface to accept the protection product and that will,
  • Help the product to last longer
  • Improve the appearance of the end-results
Something to think about.


Also, all the waxes you pictured, off the top of my head are finishing waxes, that is they are meant to be applied to a finish already in new or like new condition, that is clean and smooth.

IMG_3623.jpg




So if you're applying any of the above to a "Daily Driver" that is parked outside for any portion of each day, then you really should be using products like,

  • IronX - Removes/Dissolves embedded iron particles
  • Clay - Removes above surface bonded contaminants after the iron particles are removed
  • Paint Cleaner, or Pre-Wax Cleaner, or Fine Cut Polish - Removes oxidation, road film, impurities
And then apply any of the above products. I have a very in-depth article on the topic of cleaner/waxes and finishing waxes here,


The Difference Between a Cleaner/Wax and a Finishing Wax
Subtitle: How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project


:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's my article on how long will a wax last...

How long will brand x car wax or paint sealant last?

New Sensationalism!
sensationalismjpg.jpg




How long will brand x car wax or paint sealant last?

The above question is probably one of the most asked questions by people when it comes to choosing a wax or paint sealant. There is no definitive answer to this question because there are so many factors that have an influence or affect the length of time a protective coating will last that most of us have no control over, things like how a car is washed or the environment and climate our vehicles are exposed to.


Simply put...

"Anything chemically corrosive enough or abrasive enough to physically damage a modern, factory clear coat finish is also strong enough or abrasive enough to damage the micron, or sub-micron layer of protection you apply as a paste, liquid or spray-on wax"



What can you do to protect your auto investment?
The most important thing you can do is try to park your car under some kind of cover when not in use, like a garage or carport. The next most important thing you can do is keep the car clean so dirt, road grime and other contaminants cannot build-up on the surface, mix with moisture and attack the finish. Besides these two things, then next best thing you can do is to maintain a layer of protection on all the painted surfaces.

I've seen first hand the Uric Acid in a bird dropping etch paint in less than 10 minutes after the paint had been compounded, polished and sealed with two coats of wax.

A car wax, or a paint sealant is a Sacrificial Barrier Coating. That is it's a coating you and I can easily apply that will slow down the harmful effects of corrosive elements that land on the paint and/or anything else harmful that comes into contact with the paint. Key words being slow down, not 100% stop or prevent.

The idea being that as your car's finish sees wear-and-tear and the wax or paint sealant wears off or in other words, sacrifices itself so your paint doesn't have to sacrifice itself, that you and I can then wash the car to remove any loose dirt, clay the paint if needed to remove any above surface bonded contaminants, and then re-apply our choice of wax or paint sealant whether it's a liquid, paste or spray-on product.


The key is to,

"Find something you like and use it often"


If you find something you like then obviously you like,
  • How it applies
  • How it dries or doesn't dry in the case of a non-drying wax
  • How it wipes off
  • how it looks
  • How you perceive it to last
  • How you perceive it to protect
That's pretty much the majority of reasons we all wax our cars.

Then... if you do this often... your car's finish will always look new. It's only when you and I neglect our car's finish and the car is used as a daily driver and thus exposed to the elements and wear-and-tear, that finish goes down hill without intervention.


How often is often?
If you park your car in a garage and only drive it on sunny Sundays then you won't have to re-apply any company's wax or paint sealant very often in order to maintain that show room new look.
If you drive your car everyday, and for a portion of each day it's parked outside, for example when you're at work, and/or when you're home if you don't have a garage or covered parking at your place of residence to shelter the paint, then you will have to re-apply any company's wax or paint sealant more often in order to maintain that show room new look.
Pretty simple really...


The good news...
Modern clear coats are actually pretty tough compared to automotive paints commonly used before clear coat paint technology was introduced starting in the 1980's. For most people, the best defense is a good offense, so find a premium quality car wash that offers safe cleaning ability with good lubricating characteristics and maintain a layer of protection using your favorite wax or paint sealant.



:dblthumb2:
 
I just tried some of the new Griots premium paste wax on my hood, its great stuff. You might want to give it a try. I am going to do the whole car next week.
 
In my short time here, it's amazing what people swear by. I hear many different endorsements. But that's OK. One of the many reasons I love this place.

I'll find what works for me, and go with it. But I appreciate all of the banter. Without that, I wouldn't know about a lot of products.

At least you guys dont argue like computer people. You help each other.

You didn't ask which wax I "swear by"; that's another product entirely. I don't have a product that I swear by yet, simply because I am still "testing". :buffing:

Lastly, you have the right perspective, and for the record I am (or was) a "computer person" so I know where you are coming from.
 
Thanks for all the replies fellas. I forgot to mention that I have had my original PC 7424 for about 4 yrs now. I have not yet upgraded to the XP. Will probably end up doing one day. But my 7424 is working fine, its just the motor noise that is aggravating.

If one of my cars, or friends car needs polishing and a proper prep, I normally grab meg's UC for the prep. At minimum a thorough claying.

Optimum car wax has been suggested many times on here, but I only see spray wax offered by them. Am I correct?
 
You already have good paste and liquid wax/sealants.

Spray wax fits in your arsenal, a choice to have in case you are in a rush and need a good topper or even as a standalone.

Optimum also make a sealant and a coating.

Optimum Spray Wax
Easy to Use
Takes less than 15 minutes to wax the whole car.
No buffing required. (actually I wipe)
No residues to remove.
 

From the link Toy_Cam_Ed posted:

"Optimum Car Wax contains no cleaners or abrasives.
It will not
scratch, swirl, or penetrate the clear coat,
so your vehicle has optimum protection from the elements"



-Hasn't Chris@Optimum stated otherwise?

-Surely OCW's: CC UV-A&B augmentation...is more than just a 'surface-phenomenon'!

-Hope so.

:)

Bob
 
I just finished my car today with a coat of Collinite 845. Put it on thin and it's a breeze to buff off. Do yourself a favor and buy yourself a 3 dollar dispenser to pour it in.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
Thanks for all the replies fellas. I forgot to mention that I have had my original PC 7424 for about 4 yrs now. I have not yet upgraded to the XP. Will probably end up doing one day. But my 7424 is working fine, its just the motor noise that is aggravating.

Check this article out,


The short how-to guide for using a DA Polisher
How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers





Optimum car wax has been suggested many times on here, but I only see spray wax offered by them. Am I correct?

You are correct. I asked Dr. Ghodoussi one day why he doesn't have a liquid or paste product and he said ONE reason is because the UV inhibitors in the Optimum Car Wax transfer to the finish best using a thin, liquid spray type product.

Also, he's told me Ford Motor Company has done a lot of testing with this product and found repeated use shows the UV inhibitors to migrate into the paint, not merely reside on the surface.

See this article here,

Beginning Clearcoat Failure


I wrote the copy for this TV Commercial for OPT too and I chose my words very carefully just like I do when I post to a public forum.


Optimum Polymer Technologies
[video=youtube_share;lV3oX9omRSc&hd=1"]Optimum Polymer..."..." target="_blank">Optimum Polymer..."...[/video]​






:)
 
From the link Toy_Cam_Ed posted:

"Optimum Car Wax contains no cleaners or abrasives.
It will not
scratch, swirl, or penetrate the clear coat,
so your vehicle has optimum protection from the elements"



-Hasn't Chris@Optimum stated otherwise?

-Surely OCW's: CC UV-A&B augmentation...is more than just a 'surface-phenomenon'!

-Hope so.

:)

Bob

I asked Dr. Ghodoussi one day why he doesn't have a liquid or paste product and he said ONE reason is because the UV inhibitors in the Optimum Car Wax transfer to the finish best using a thin, liquid spray type product.

Also, he's told me Ford Motor Company has done a lot of testing with this product and found repeated use shows the UV inhibitors to migrate into the paint, not merely reside on the surface.

Thanks for this info, Mike...reinforces my conception on OCW!

Just a suggestion:
Perhaps OCW's: 'product-description' (whatever store-front it's located)...is in need of a minor overhaul.

:)

Bob
 
There is a ton of awesome info in this forum. What you will find is that we all have our favorites! lol. All of the replies I've read have great suggestions. I personally use the Klasse products a lot in Florida. The are very easy to use and provide awesome lasting protection. But if you get your products from this web site, I honestly don't think you can go wrong!:buffing:
 
Of what you already own either of the Collinite products, I personally use 845 as it's alot easier to machine apply.

I'd buy either some OCW or DG Aqua Wax to augment, I personally use the DG.

I'd also try machine applying the waxes, for one thing you will get very thin, even coverage and your product will go further. I'm a convert from the the hand application of an LSP belief and can't even fathiom why I took so long to machine apply. Even if you get an XP keep your gen 1 to apply your LSP's.
 
I just finished my car today with a coat of Collinite 845. Put it on thin and it's a breeze to buff off. Do yourself a favor and buy yourself a 3 dollar dispenser to pour it in.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
I'm assuming one with a flip top thing for smaller dispensing vs being very careful not to pour the whole bottle out?
 
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