looking into getting a polisher
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viviorunitia88
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well thanks yeah i have learned a lot and the reason why he is painting my car for free is because i help him out at the shop so i have picked up quite a bit about clear coat but thanks for the info ill probly just pick up the meg with the men package. any ideas on what sealent would bring out the best shine on the paint been looking at the wolfgang and poorboy blackhole then finishing with dodo supernatural or one of the zymol mid lines just cant bring myself to spend the money on swissvax seems all the price is for is marketing. espicaly when im a detail nazi and enjoy waxing my car like every two weeks with daily washs and spray detailers lol
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Yes, even with a wool pad it laughed. So I went back to 105 and it got all the defects out, plus 105 finishes out so much nicer than Power Gloss. It would be nice to see something like 105 from Menzerna, but right now it is hard to beat 105 right now.
viviorunitia88
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o i guess the reason for the selfhealing clear is since it stays maliuable if by the off chance a scratch gets almost to the base coat he thinks it would be best since the lower layres of clear will heal its self and then all you have to worry about is buffing the ceramic clear.... thats what im told so i listen its all sikkens paint so its good stuff
viviorunitia88
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Well with all being said with the felx what pads and compounds would you recomend asphalt with have the complete background knowledge of my paint?? also will i really need that aggresive of a compound all the time. I was thinking as long as the paint dident have any swirls or defects i would just use like dodo lime prime as just a glaze/ prewax treatment toped with a sealer and supernatural for the finsher
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Here is the thing, if you paint is polished correctly your lsp is not going to add anything or if it does when you check by a gloss meter you will not see it with your eye. Your LSP is basically there to protect all your hard work. The Wolfgang sealant is a great sealant, the new DP poli-coat is as well but a little harder to work with. A great mid range Zymol wax would be the Concours and Glasur. Also Swissvax Concorso is a great mid range priced wax. If you look Zymol is priced anout the same if not more than Swissvax. They both have great nubas. Plus when you go up in price range with either the nuba content is higher and they last a lot longer.
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Sikkens makes very nice paint, I really like Glasurit(sp) clear.
Mike Phillips
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I tend to be very careful with words when I post as it seems there's always someone that want's to try to find fault with something I write, so on that note, if by
Just came out of the booth
You mean within a few days, then usually the best time to do any sanding and buffing is sooner than later before the paint fully hardens.
The reason I prefaced my remarks is because we had people post things like,
My car was just painted
and after digging a little deeper by "just painted" they mean a few months ago up to a year ago... there's a huge difference between a few days ago and a few months ago....
Regardless of which compounds and polishes you go with, if the new/fresh paint is going to be sanded and then buffed I would recommend doing it sooner versus later... your painter should have a good feel for the "Window of time" in which the paint still offers good polishability.
The Meguiar's Twins are pretty hard to beat for projects such as this, the M105 has set the new standard for cut and finish using SMAT instead of DAT
If you're not up to date on SMAT here's a few articles on the subject from my article list...
Compounds - Polishes - Paint Cleaners - Cleaner/Polishes - Pure Polishes - Glazes
The SMAT Pack - Everything you ever wanted to know about Meguiar's SMAT products...
The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!
Also, if you're going to be helping with the sanding the take a look at machine sanding with any of these,
- Meguiar's Unigrit
- 3M Trizact
- Mirka Abralon
Here's a recent article I wrote on dampsanding...
Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips
If you're going to be doing any of the compounding after sanding then you should get a rotary buffer, it's the best tool for removing sanding marks at this time...
And Dana's advice on learning from your painter is spot on, when I first got into this industry it was calling on body shops and teaching what's called the "Painter's Helper" how to wetsand, cut and buff using the Meguiar's System, (I was a Trainer for Meguiar's, did this for 3 years in Oregon, Washington and Idaho), and I learned a lot from painters.
While it's true they do know more than most in this industry when it comes to sanding and buffing paint, after some time goes by they tend to like to pass off the sanding and buffing work to the Painter's Helper because it's hard dirty work, most of the really good painter's I've known in my life usually do pass off the sanding and buffing because they are paid top dollar to be the "Painter".
Here's the ironic thing...
It's not the painter that makes or breaks the paint job unless the car is "not" sanded and buffed.
Make sense?
viviorunitia88
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well its not getting sikkens clear hes finding some other for it as he wants a clear that matchs the exotics
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If you are sticking with the flex da I would suggest the flat pads and no you will not always need an aggressive compound but the great thing about the Megs twins is that the pad varies your cut. Also like I said above I would get some Menzerna 85rd just for that extra gloss, depth and clarity in your paint, it does make a difference. You can use a lime prime light to clean your paint, I use the Pinnacle or P21S paint cleaner myself. Also just becareful with Supernatural it will sweat on you, meaning it will haze after removing it. I would suggest looking at Pinnacle Souveran, much easier to use and no sweating/hazing after removal.
viviorunitia88
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well its an advanced cureing flash heated booth that after he is going to flat sand for me and buff i hate orange peel its soo annoying and flat sanded clear looks soo much better and well worth the extra like day of work in imho and fresh out of the booth means its going to be coming out of spray in like two weeks lol.
viviorunitia88
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well i have all winter so asphalt im not too fimlar on zymol or swissvax products any recomendations?? ill pick up some of the pinnacle as well like to keep a well assorted collection. i have been detailing for awhile now since i was 15 before my licens now 22 so i have a little time. just have been out of it for awhile as i got sidetracked with my big project and really dont like taking the time on other peoples cars as they never truely appricate the time and effort to bring a perfect finish. so since my project car has been down i kinda need to redo my hole detailing supply shelf as its empty almost. lol its going to be an expensive winter.
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So he is going to go in after every coat and sand down the clear, now that will look awesome when you are done with all the polishing. You are correct something flat vs something with orange peel will reflect the light better and will have that gloss, depth ,and clarity.
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That's awesome, I started when I was 14 and opened a very successful shop when I was 23. I think once you get a decent client base they will appreciate your time and effort. It is all about how you approach the client and explain what goes into a detail and have pictures of a progress of a complete detail to show them or have some references that would speak on your behalf.
I have most of the higher end Zymol and Swissvax waxes so if there is one you are interested in let me know and I can tell you about it. What are you exactly looking for in those waxes or those two brands?
viviorunitia88
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yup after every layre of clear he is going to have to sand it down and whipe down with preclean and respray for all i think 6 layres of clear or so its going to take about a week or so just to get the clear sprayed and finalized
viviorunitia88
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just basicaly looking for a great shine and great durablity was looking into that 2500 wax because i think with the lifetime refills it would pay for itself in the long run just $2500 can get me a lot of other goodies like my v mount set up or powdercoating my suspension componates so just can bring myself to that much lol. ill have to look more into them and ill pm you or somthing with more questions on them
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That's the way to do it. Sounds like you have someone that is very smart to learn from. If I was you i would stick to him like glue and learn as much as you can about paint and see if you can help wet sand and polish some paint. That will go a long way in your buffing skills.
Mike Phillips
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Are you going to be helping with the final finish sanding and buffing or are you going to take over after he does the sanding and buffing?
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Just pm me about that stuff since AG doesn't sell them. I would suggest trying Souveran though.