Loss of clarity with coating?

[fightnews]

That just sounds like too many cooks in the kitchen but interested to see how it turns out.

When I first started messing about with coatings i wss topping them with all sorts of waxes and QD's...Wolfgang Fuzion, Dodo Purple Haze, Pinnacle Souveran, WG Detail Spritz, WG Deep Gloss Sealant and Spritz, Kenotek Showroom Shine and a few more. Eventually I just ended up with s surface that acted like a wax...not very self cleaning and attracted dust.

After I gave up on that I went into SiO2 overload; wash coated car with Gyeon Bathe+, follow that with Gyeon WetCoat, finish with Gyeon Cure or similar. Eventually I did start to lose clarity and have since become kinda a minimalist.

Car is now coated, added a carnuaba/glass coating hybrid wax from the same 'collection' every 3 months or so, topped occasionally with a booster from the same collection.

Good to know only thing is I noticed the loss of clarity as soon as I coated it with nothing on top. My eyes can see it and now I see it in that picture so I'm just going to buff the coating off

What u use pa stuff?

 

[Desertnate]

That just sounds like too many cooks in the kitchen but interested to see how it turns out.

When I first started messing about with coatings i wss topping them with all sorts of waxes and QD's...Wolfgang Fuzion, Dodo Purple Haze, Pinnacle Souveran, WG Detail Spritz, WG Deep Gloss Sealant and Spritz, Kenotek Showroom Shine and a few more. Eventually I just ended up with s surface that acted like a wax...not very self cleaning and attracted dust.

After I gave up on that I went into SiO2 overload; wash coated car with Gyeon Bathe+, follow that with Gyeon WetCoat, finish with Gyeon Cure or similar. Eventually I did start to lose clarity and have since become kinda a minimalist.

Car is now coated, added a carnuaba/glass coating hybrid wax from the same 'collection' every 3 months or so, topped occasionally with a booster from the same collection.

I wholeheartedly agree that simple is best. I don't top my coatings either. However, what do you use as a drying aid or post-wash spot remover...or do you at all?

I have no shade/cover for washing and even on the smallest car washed as quickly as possible, I'll get a few spots. Drying aids or an as-needed wipe down is a necessity for me. Right now, I'm pretty happy with Kenotek on my McKee's 37 coating and I liked McKee's 37 High Gloss Detailer (supposedly a complimentary product to the coating) as well. Ultimately, I'm looking for a product that leaves as little behind as possible. Right now I'm using QD sprays as I feel they leave far less behind than spray waxes. What little they do leave probably doesn't last more than a few days.

 

[fightnews]

gif hosting


I can see it clearly in this picture

Just wanted to bump the picture, I don't know if its just the coating brand but it definitely looks worse. Even the guy at work could clearly see it

I might even bang out Friday to buff it off

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Good to know only thing is I noticed the loss of clarity as soon as I coated it with nothing on top. My eyes can see it and now I see it in that picture so I'm just going to buff the coating off

What u use pa stuff?

I was messing about with some coatings on a hood to try some different methods/tools once last summer; although I *thought* I did a complete prep wipedown (Gyeon Prep) when I pulled the car out into the sun I could see some haziness which it turned out from being poor post polishing prep. While in garage, surface looked free and clear the Prep had not completely removed all residue from surface, which I then coated over with somewhat hazy results in sun. Just a thought...

I PM'd ya on what stuff I use currently...

View attachment 60563View attachment 60564

I wholeheartedly agree that simple is best. I don't top my coatings either. However, what do you use as a drying aid or post-wash spot remover...or do you at all?

I have no shade/cover for washing and even on the smallest car washed as quickly as possible, I'll get a few spots. Drying aids or an as-needed wipe down is a necessity for me. Right now, I'm pretty happy with Kenotek on my McKee's 37 coating and I liked McKee's 37 High Gloss Detailer (supposedly a complimentary product to the coating) as well. Ultimately, I'm looking for a product that leaves as little behind as possible. Right now I'm using QD sprays as I feel they leave far less behind than spray waxes. What little they do leave probably doesn't last more than a few days.

I use the Booster product from the coating family collection as a drying aid...

 

[fightnews]

Here's another 1 with the exact lighting



Edit: Just wanted to add that it has nothing to do with the lsp on the uncoated car. I have 100 other pics with all different combinations of lsp and they are all comparable. I only chose that pic because the lighting and angle were the closest to the coated pic

Dang that coating was 80 bucks too plus 30 for the polish

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Definitely a loss of clarity..plain to see. Was the coating the Blackfire Surface Coating?

 

[fightnews]

Definitely a loss of clarity..plain to see. Was the coating the Blackfire Surface Coating?

No the pinnacle black label diamond paint coating V2. I'm taking friday off from work so I can spend the weekend buffing it back to normal.

Do u guys think menzerna 3500 will get the coating off? It's been on a little under 2 weeks

 

[Eldorado2k]

Here's another 1 with the exact lighting

Nope, I disagree. The lighting is not the exact same and the tell tale signs are 1st of all visable on your wheel... It's blinding bright coming off the wheel which indicates the brightness [or whatever the correct term] is set too high, causing it to look sort of like this, except even brighter in your pic.

Under normal camera conditions it should look more like this, even in direct sun.

I oughta know, because when I took that pic a while back, I was purposely trying to highlight the gloss on the tires, but it just didn't look natural so I toned down my brightness, which is what you should've done.

It's also visible on small areas such as the exterior drivers side rear view mirror [look at the triangle shaped part closest to the door] notice the slight difference in shade between the 2 pics, and again it's slightly visable on the roof racks black trim... And especially noticeable on the chrome door handle. 1 pic it's so bright it's blurry, and on the right side pic it's clear and natural.

You're doing a good job of convincing yourself though...

 

[fightnews]

Nope, I disagree. The lighting is not the exact same and the tell tale signs are 1st of all visable on your wheel... It's blinding bright coming off the wheel which indicates the brightness [or whatever the correct term] is set too high, causing it to look sort of like this, except even brighter in your pic.

Under normal camera conditions it should look more like this, even in direct sun.

I oughta know, because when I took that pic a while back, I was purposely trying to highlight the gloss on the tires, but it just didn't look natural so I toned down my brightness, which is what you should've done.

It's also visible on small areas such as the exterior drivers side rear view mirror [look at the triangle shaped part closest to the door] notice the slight difference in shade between the 2 pics, and again it's slightly visable on the roof racks black trim... And especially noticeable on the chrome door handle. 1 pic it's so bright it's blurry, and on the right side pic it's clear and natural.

You're doing a good job of convincing yourself though...

Yeah ok bro, to bad i noticed it without the pics hence why I made the thread. Its obvious you must be blind if you cant see it. Youre just trying to argue for arguement sake, i didnt need the pics to be able to see it i only posted them for the forum.

Of course it's not an exact match the pics are months apart.

 

[Eldorado2k]

The plastic trim along the rocker panel looks slightly darker on the right vs. left side... Again due to lighting conditions not being exactly the same or IMO ideal.

 

[fightnews]

The plastic trim along the rocker panel looks slightly darker on the right vs. left side... Again due to lighting conditions not being exactly the same or IMO ideal.

It's as close as it's going to get its not a controlled experiment it's outside in diffrebmnt months. Every other person that's seen the pics can see it but you. It looks like there is a film on the car. Like I said I have 100 other pics I tried to match it up the best I could for the forum but I noticed it the day after it was coated as soon as I saw it outside. It's my car I look at it every day. You've seen 1 picture but I'm the one trying to convince myself? Ok kid thanks for the imput

 

[Eldorado2k]

Yeah ok bro, to bad i noticed it without the pics hence why I made the thread. Its obvious you must be blind if you cant see it. Youre just trying to argue for arguement sake, i didnt need the pics to be able to see it i only posted them for the forum.

Of course it's not an exact match the pics are months apart.

I'm not arguing for the sake of arguing, please don't compare me to someone else... I do however sense a bit of, [what's the word I'm looking for] Sort of like when a old dog refuses to learn new tricks, for lack of a better word...

You're looking for any reason to come back to what you love. Sometimes we tend to refuse change in the beginning, it happens.

I just sense a bit of rushing to judgment. And a rush to use more products too? It's your car though, do what makes you happy.

 

[kevincwelch]

Yeah, I'm having trouble figuring out the issue from your photos, and I agree that the lighting and white balance are different, as is the angle. Digital cameras do not replicate this well enough unless the lighting conditions are well-controlled and in a black room.

Either way, I have used PBL coating, and with proper prep, it looks glossy and is slick to the feel. Never hazy in my opinion. (I didn't like the longevity, but I had no issues with the look or feel.)

If you exclude the possibility of having a bad bottle or batch (low possibility), the rest of the issues with coatings usually boil down to prep and/or application. Prep: inadequate polishing/micromarring or incomplete removal of oils and surfactants. Application: too much product, high spots, layering too soon.

Again, hard to say from your photos, but nothing beats the eye when viewed in person. Consider all the possible weak links in the chain of events that lead up to the final assessment. Lastly, I agree with others about premature washing and overuse of topping products. I'm basically down to coating and application of a simple SiO2 wipe and boosting every 6-8 weeks. Neutral soaps like Reset, Mystic Bubble or plain RW like N914...sometimes SiO2 RW (ECH2O). No waxes. No sealants. No polymers.

BTW, Eldo2k is a straight shooter.

 

[fightnews]

The plastic trim along the rocker panel looks slightly darker on the right vs. left side... Again due to lighting conditions not being exactly the same or IMO ideal.

Actually its due to the fact that The trim is not dressed in the coating
picture but whatever. You think the paint has the same clarity that's your opinion. I wouldn't want you detailing my car if you think the paint looks the same in both pics

 

[Ronin47]

Theres a definate loss in clarity no doubt about that. Just polish it off and use something that doesn’t offend your eyes, thats what I would do.

 

[Eldorado2k]

IIRC you said something about not coating the trunk? If that's the case, IPA the trunk and lay some tape down, and provide us a legit 50/50 so we can actually see exactly what you're talking about... Because so far all we've got is that lousy pic from the absolute worst distance and angle to go on.

And don't go getting your feelings hurt because it truly is a lousy photo.

 

[SWETM]

Do I understand your first post right that it's only the drivers side doors that has that look you don't like? And the trunk that was uncoated looked that way too?
Sometimes the time window of when you level the highspots out you can be wiping down the clarity of it. And the type of nap on the mf can be one part and the quality also.
If it is that different that the pictures shows irl also. Then something went wrong along the way or the coating is just a bad product. Or it's not your type of look that this coating gave. But all coatings are'nt the same in how they look. It's just harder to take off than a traditional wax and apply a different.

 

[fightnews]

How about that can you see the difference here???

 

[fightnews]

Do I understand your first post right that it's only the drivers side doors that has that look you don't like? And the trunk that was uncoated looked that way too?
Sometimes the time window of when you level the highspots out you can be wiping down the clarity of it. And the type of nap on the mf can be one part and the quality also.
If it is that different that the pictures shows irl also. Then something went wrong along the way or the coating is just a bad product. Or it's not your type of look that this coating gave. But all coatings are'nt the same in how they look. It's just harder to take off than a traditional wax and apply a different.

I thought the trunk looked similar but I was only looking at it reflection wise. It's hard to tell on the trunk because it's contoured and it has the plate

It's on all the panels I coated that rubbery looking film. I took tomorrow off I'm going to get it back to normal then go back to the hybrid wax topped with regular wax. I really don't need the coating I wash it 1x a week faithfully and I like using spray wax toppers . I was just experimenting with the coating to see if it added to the look. I used brand new suede towels to buff the coating and I had those new no lint towels from carpro

 

[fightnews]

Theres a definate loss in clarity no doubt about that. Just polish it off and use something that doesn’t offend your eyes, thats what I would do.

Thank you thats what im going to do starting tonight