Lost faith in da polisher, need expert

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ROVERHSE06

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Hello,

2 yrs. ago I joined this forum to help me polish my black Range Rover. I received plenty of advice, list of products to purchase $ and how safe the PC is to use. I purchased a PC 7424, LC pads, polish, towels, etc....) After polishing my RR I ended up with a sh?t load of halograms. Ouch! After numerous post for futher advice and repeated tries, I still have those nasty halograms.

I'm throwing in the towel. I now need help finding an expert in my area (Northern California, I can drive to the bayarea (ie. San Franisco, Oakland) to show me how to polish and remove the halograms, I'm willing to pay for their time and I might have them polish the entire car if the price is right.

Once I get the halograms removed maybe then I can be an advocate for the PC.

Thanks
 
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First of all, I don't think you are seeing holograms, a PC can not create holograms on paint. What it could be is excessive micromarring from using an aggressive polish or pad (or both), not breaking the polish down properly (not working the polish in long enough, it takes a lot of time with a PC), not using enough pressure, not using speed 5 or 6, etc. What polishes and pads were you using and what was your technique?
 
what pad (yellow or orange) and polishes did you use ??
 
Thanks for your responses.

Whatever they are, the car looks like sh?t. They only show up when the sun directly hits the panel. They look like a 3D images floating in the panel. Regardless if they are a halograms, micro marring, I have them after polising and need to get rid of them. The Rover looks awful. Who's say the PC is safe proof!! Maybe it can't burn the paint, but it can create side effects.

I know you guys are trying to be helpful in asking product/pad technique but I have gone done that road, look at my old post. (Search on UserID =Roverhse06)

I'm hoping someone in my area who is an expert can respond and actually do the work or show me how to in-person.

I will end on a positive note. I practiced on my wife's Saturn (clear coat is hard compared to very soft clear coat on Range Rover and I achieved great results, I don't see any side-effects but the color isn't black either.
 
Can you post pics? If you want to explain your procedure and answer the previous questions you may get some more help.
 
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Where in Northern California are you? I live in Reno, NV and would be willing to help, but I'm a full time student and wouldn't be able to go out there or have you come here until the weekend. Please post pics though and we'll try to help you through here before going to the extreme of having you travel somewhere lol.
 
I used the following pads/polish:

LC Orange pad with Menzerna IP, finished with LC White pad with Menzerna Final Polish II.

I used the following prodecure: primed dry pad first, dime size of polish, polished at speed of 5, 1 horizontal pass, 1 veterical pass, 1 left diagonal pass, 1 right diagonal pass, 2 more horizontal passes, 2 more vertical (polished aprox. 4 minutes for a 18x8 area. Worked the polish through the stages. I did have flaking onto other panels but not excessive.

Will post picture showing halograms?/micro marring? tomorrow morning.
 
I would try IP with the white LC pad. See if that helps clear it up. Going from the Orange pad with IP to a white pad with Final Polish II which has virtually no cut on the white pad I think is where the problem is.
 
ROVERHSE06 said:
I used the following pads/polish:

LC Orange pad with Menzerna IP, finished with LC White pad with Menzerna Final Polish II.

I used the following prodecure: primed dry pad first, dime size of polish, polished at speed of 5, 1 horizontal pass, 1 veterical pass, 1 left diagonal pass, 1 right diagonal pass, 2 more horizontal passes, 2 more vertical (polished aprox. 4 minutes for a 18x8 area. Worked the polish through the stages. I did have flaking onto other panels but not excessive.

Will post picture showing halograms?/micro marring? tomorrow morning.
Click to expand...

i think what you are doing with the orange pad might need to take place alot slower, in the right light, while checking your work along the way. really break the polish down and slowly make overlapping passes both ways. it can't hurt to go slower and more concentrated with your second stage with the white pad as well, but i don't see if causing as much of an issue as the first stage you listed.

just a suggestion. not a bad idea to get with a qualified member in the area too to check out your technique, but an online video example might be helpful to, for us all to review!
 
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posted by builthatch
just a suggestion. not a bad idea to get with a qualified member in the area too to check out your technique

Exactly, thats what I'm trying to find/pay a qualified autogeek member to show me the correct technique. I've gone round and round trying to do it myself and not acheiving my desire results.


To respond to sal329:

I tried everything on the the same 18x18 panel in this order:
LC white pad/Menzera FPII ; LC white pad/IP; LC Orange pad/FPII ; LC Orange Pad/IP, Orange Pad/Poorboys SSR 2.5. Nothing seems to work.
 
It looks like my thread is going cold. Here's what I'm finding out from other sources. I found a guy which actually polished a black Range Range (same model/year) He said the clear coat is very soft and he didn't feel a da PC could finish down to the level I'm expecting.

So what does everybody think. Is the da PC all hype? I like to belief otherwise.
 
ROVERHSE06 said:
It looks like my thread is going cold. Here's what I'm finding out from other sources. I found a guy which actually polished a black Range Range (same model/year) He said the clear coat is very soft and he didn't feel a da PC could finish down to the level I'm expecting.

So what does everybody think. Is the da PC all hype? I like to belief otherwise.
Click to expand...
That doesn't make too much sense to me. Despite the paint being soft if you went with an orange or white pad to remove the swirls/holograming and then went over with a white pad to remove any marring with a gentler polish and finish up on an even softer pad like a blue pad with the same light polish or glaze and it should finish fine. PC's aren't as aggressive as rotary's, so I'm not sure why he said it wouldn't finish down.
 
If the paint is really soft I would try 106ff with a 4" white LC pad, then finish with black 4" LC pad and 87mc. I have not lost faith in PC, I will use it until I master the rotary, even then I think I will only use the rotary when it is really needed.
 
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I found another thead in which a guy who did a Range Rover said the following:

Range Rover paint is very soft (in general) and hard to finish correctly with a dual action polisher.
 
sounds like you need to finish with a black pad and some 106ff maybe even a red pad
 
You certainly have recieved alot of help and support are you feeling any better yet. are you ready to give it another go??? :D
 
just like anything else these days, the more you practice doing something (in this case the PC) usually the better you get. you'll find that different pad/product combinatons may work well with one car, may not with another and also one's technique plays a HUGE roll as well. one person i can think of who has mastered and knows the PC very well would be BLKYUKON. check out some of his instructional videos... Car Detailing videos - How to detail, polish and wax your Car

p.s. sometimes the PC is limited to what it can accomplish, so may have to step up to a rotary (also, lots have had excellent results with the Flex as well)...
 
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I actually sent BLKYUKON an email for advice. He responded with alot of helpful tips. I finished with LC black pad and FPII. It seems to have worked. I still need to verify it at different times of the day but at 5:00PM with the sun directly hitting the door, no visible halograms,micro marring.
 
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