LSP recommendation

opie said:
I like 3d bead it up. Just not sure if it is me(meaning not using enough product or what) or the fact that 2 out three of our vehicles are coated so im used to the tight ass water beading from it but ime 3d bead it up as astandalone product doesnt last long (beading wise) on vertical panels only.

Pic is 1.5 months after application. Just after a fresh wash. It was driven twice and washed twice

Or maybe its not as bad as i think?

Not highjacking, just adding info for the masses
5b1a1f3d409972889d2e739c8e327725.jpg


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Opie is the Bead It Up on top of fresh prepped paint? I have found that makes a huge difference. I used 3 in 1 years ago and the beading was not that good because I just put it on top of whatever was already on the car.

From what I'm seeing, Bead It Up doesn't produce the tightest beads. But I'm going by vague photos I've seen of it here and there.... I had this issue with Hyper-Seal too but the more I played around with it and prepped the paint well, the beading got substantially better.

Griot's recommends a thin layer, but I found when applying it heavier it worked even better. Took me some time to get familiar with it. They always say "less is more" but even that is vague.
 
NJNinja said:
Opie is the Bead It Up on top of fresh prepped paint? I have found that makes a huge difference.
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No, Polished in may. Did a wipe down with surface prep b4 using 3d bead it up.

Ive used bead it up as a topper on coated vehicles and beading was much better and paint felt more slick. So maybe your right.

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The picture of the 3D Bead It Up looks very similar to what I experienced with Griots 3 In 1. It is respectable, but not to the same level as a actual coating.
 
The beading I got from 3 in 1 on a non prepped painted surface was drastically different than on a prepped surface. While this should not surprise anyone, it was to me before I knew anything about these things.


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When you guys are saying "prepped sruface" do you mean stripped or polished? Or both?
 
The more you can do to get the surface prepped...I.E....strip/iron decon/clay/polish....the better your results will be
 
BlackCarBlues said:
When you guys are saying "prepped sruface" do you mean stripped or polished? Or both?
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Bosko is correct, but i took NJninja's comments as meaning a minimum of a polished surface

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Sealant- Meguiars Ultimate, FinishKare Great White (1000P), or Collinite 476s
Spray- 303 Graphene

Never had had much luck with Griot's or Chemical Guys products. Might just be me.
 
Fewer bad choices out there than good ones. So with that you can go forth and purchase with confidence, chances are if it is recommended here it is at least decent. I'm the weird guy who you need to take with a grain of salt because I have been using CarPro Reload since it came out(2015 I think?) and since it has been blown out of the water by countless others. Mostly in durability and cost. But, I still use it. I made a promise to myself(and I guess to some here in a sense) that when this current bottle is empty I shall move on. Lol.

Old habits, as they say, die hard.
 
Post op photo. Dealer kindly gave me some free scratches :(. Washed, did very light polish on select areas. Used cmx, which was time well spent. I don’t know why I had these streaks on the vertical panels, maybe leftover hard water? Either way I was glad I used it.

The Griots 3in1 ceramic was good. Really liked how I could just spray everything, this car has sooo much plastic. I had no streaking issues, and felt like I used a lot of product. Does require some effort in buffing to get glossy. Could do 1 large or 2 small panels at once. Used 3 rags per coat, one to spread product, 1 buff, 1 final buff. Did 2 coats. Pretty pleased so far, time will tell.

Thanks for the suggestions, will assuredly have more questions!
Chris
 
polish angel and sonax make spray wax type products that are coating like in regards to beading IME.
 
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