If your LSP is strong then almost nothing which is water dilutable and paint safe will do the job. Every single example I have seen which supposedly does the job turns out not to. For example, there is a detox type product sold in the UK which detailers sing the praises of but it simply doesn't strip. It leaves a film which makes the water beading disappear but a good scrub with hot water and the beading is back. To further demonstrate how tough a good LSP is to remove, the above product can be cleaned away using neat IPA - yes, neat IPA recovers the hydrophobic character of the wax, it doesn't strip it. Have you never wondered why waxes are based around hydrocarbon solvents (like mineral spirits) and not IPA? Simple, wax doesn't really dissolve in IPA!
OK, I have said all this before but here goes again...
1) Waxes - should be easiest to strip, in large part because (assuming it doesn't contain synthetic polymers, which many do) it doesn't bond to the surface. Strong alkalinity has a good chance of removing wax but it genuinely needs to be strong. People often use APCs but the alkalinity in these is moderate and really only would have a chance on degraded wax. Often when people find an APC to work it is down to.... the surfactants within it leaving a film. Solvents, again, you have a fighting chance. IPA is not going to do anything (likewise similar products based on it - Eraser) to a good wax, only if it is significantly degraded. Hydrocarbon solvents, like mineral spirits, are a better bet since (as above) wax actually dissolves in these (but it isn't a fast dissolution, don't be expecting that wax dissolves in mineral spirits easily like sugar does in water!). So things like panel wipe and cream cleanser type products are a good thing to try. With a degraded wax, it might be quite easy but with a strong wax, it should be hard work. Guaranteed solution is a quick polish with an abrasive type product.
2) Sealants/synthetics - The job is made tougher because these are inherently less reactive and they actually bond to a surface. Alkalinity is less likely to work, to the point I wouldn't even bother trying it. You are stuck with your hydrocarbon solvent approach (panel wipe/cleanser) but it will be harder. Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to strip a sealant without an abrasive (unless it is almost gone already).
3) Coatings - no point even talking about anything short of an abrasive.
The real key thing which I feel detailers fail to do is to confirm the removal of their LSP. Typically, a quick rinse with the hose to show the beading is gone is all that is done (many even just take the word of the product supplier). After a stripping technique, especially a surfactant heavy technique, a good detailer simply must do a supplementary wash, preferrably with hot water, to remove any residual surfactants. Even a decent IPA wipe down (some on here have tried this an will confirm) can be a good idea. You would be shocked how often this will result in some of the water behaviour of your LSP returning again.
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