m100 will not wipe off.

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2002camaross

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I have been using this compound for awhile on a rotary with wool and a DA with a megs microfiber cutting disc. I have never had a problem with it and its never been a problem wiping off. Fast forward today, Im correcting 2010 Acura MDX with OEM paint and for the life of me cannot figure out what the problem is. After I make my passes all it does is smear and the consistency while compounding is almost like its getting sticky which is causing a lot of dust. Combo's tried today all with the same result....microfiber on PC set 5 and tried 4, Makita rotary with w-5000 wool, LC tangerine flat pad and LC orange flat pad. Im using the same bottle Ive used on other vehicles without fail. The only difference this time is the temps are in the upper 80's and its extremely humid today, but this m100 should be ok in those conditions. Lastly, even when trying to wipe the panel with IPA to get the rest of the m100 off, it just smears and smears. I pretty much want to drive this MDX off a cliff.

Any ideas what possibly could be going wrong here?
 
Try using a finish pad with m100. MDX have soft paint if i remember right.
 
The only time compound (any compound) doesn't wipe off is when it's hot and/or humid. Try using some QD spray or a hot wet MF. Compound is water soluble. Give it a try! Or use a red pad and a wax prep/paint cleaner.
 
Andr3wilson said:
The only time compound (any compound) doesn't wipe off is when it's hot and/or humid. Try using some QD spray or a hot wet MF. Compound is water soluble. Give it a try! Or use a red pad and a wax prep/paint cleaner.
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Not true. Acuras and some Nissans have very "sticky" paint, and no matter what product you use they can be hard to remove.

Best shot is mixing a little bit of water based Polish such as HD polish with your compounds to aid with initial removal. Work the products completely and have a bottle of qd or eraser to help with the really sticky stuff.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
VP Mark said:
Not true. Acuras and some Nissans have very "sticky" paint, and no matter what product you use they can be hard to remove.

Best shot is mixing a little bit of water based Polish such as HD polish with your compounds to aid with initial removal. Work the products completely and have a bottle of qd or eraser to help with the really sticky stuff.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
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LOL sticky paint.
 
Andr3wilson said:
LOL sticky paint.
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Lol I forgot to mention Subaru!! Their paints are the worst of all. Product removal nightmare. There are even several threads about it on the other a a utopia if you wanna go laugh some there.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
No sure what the condition of your paint is but on my MDX I use M205 with a mint über polishing pad and it takes out most everything using a GG DA with a 5" back plate. I think you might be too aggressive. I can follow with PO85rd to extract a bit more gloss but the 205 finishes down well on it own. I rarely go the extra step.
 
Sticky paint is a reality. Some may laugh but when doing correction on a Subaru , Honda , Acura and a host of others it can quickly become a nightmare if you are unfamiliar with this condition. Adding water of other tricks will work but I have found grabbing some Menzerna Super Finish 106 has saved me every time. Have no idea what causes this problem but this is my answer for facing this condition. When I first heard about sticky paint I was in the camp that thought these guys are nuts. But after finding this first hand I know exactly what they are talking about.
 
I know when I used to have issues like this it was with M105. It gets pretty humid here. I solved this by getting M205 and make a pass and presto!
 
FullAttn2Detail said:
I know when I used to have issues like this it was with M105. It gets pretty humid here. I solved this by getting M205 and make a pass and presto!
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I do this same thing when 105 is being funny, just do one quick pass with 205 and its gone!
 
I'm sorry guys, but there is a difference between sticky paint and soft paint. To the best of my knowledge, only Nissan used self healing clear back in 08'-09' and that was actually sticky; buffer bounces all over the place, forget using a rotary on that.

Soft paint on the other hand is more susceptible to heat. (When it gets hot, it gets even softer) If the panel is too hot you are drying the compound into the clear, that's why it's not buffing off. Sticky paint is not the problem here. Heat is. Anyone who is skilled at paint correction will say "heat is your biggest enemy".

I don't need to read anything (wasting enough time answer this today already). I do this stuff all the time. From soft unbaked booth clear (towel mars it) to ford super snakes to ceramiclear. I really don't mean any offence, but I know what I am talking about. He said IPA wasn't working. Try a hot wet towel, that always works, if it doesn't. I'm wrong, big deal. Try a paint cleanser, if that doesn't work, keep experimenting. Judging from the sounds of it, it's heat that's giving you issues.
 
Andr3wilson said:
I'm sorry guys, but there is a difference between sticky paint and soft paint. To the best of my knowledge, only Nissan used self healing clear back in 08'-09' and that was actually sticky; buffer bounces all over the place, forget using a rotary on that.

:iagree:You are correct about sticky paint.
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Thanks for all the input guys. I finally got it worked out. This was quite a learning experience. I'm so used to moderately to very hard clears, I was just using way too much speed and the microfiber disc was just to aggressive. What ultimately worked well for compounding was mez SPI and 106fa mixed 1 to 1 on a lc tangerine pad with a PC set on 3. I've never even used the 3 setting, lol. For the polishing I tried to use my favorite go to 106fa, it made the correction work mixing with sip, but alone it just got gummy on the surface no matter what I tried. Sooo, I tried m205 with a LC white flat pad with the pc set at 3 and I had to clean the pad after every section. It worked perfectly. Frustrating weekend and the most baffling correction I have ever done. I planned 15-18 hours because the swirls were horrid and had rids on every panel, and I ended up at somewhere close to 50 hours....FAIL. It finished out beautifully though.

Thanks again for the tips.
 
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