How large of an area are you working in?
Is the 105 clumping up on the paint while you're compounding? If so you're using too much product on the pad for one section.
You should try to keep your work sections around 12 to 16 inches squared, and work the 105 until it's pretty much gone from the paint. At this point you should brush the spent product from your pad and inspect your results.
A lot of GM paints are very hard so it may take a few attempts to get the swirls and scratches leveled out of the paint in your work area. And remember....you are removing paint with each failed attempt at this.
M-105 is a fast cutting product with a short working time. Another way to say that would be that it has super hard and sharp, fairly fine abrasives, but the solvents in the product evaporate rather quickly so it ends up dusting a good bit when worked to it's full potential.
So many people want a dust free compound, I always say that "Dusting is simply part of the deal when compounding paint" and there's a trade off in time when you go to a less dusting compound, or add something to a fast cutting (but dusty) compound to reduce the dusting.
Essentially you add something oily like M-205 or some folks have used a few drops of mineral oil to increase the working time of M-105, but that's exactly what it does...increases the time that you have to work to get the results you're attempting to achieve.
Another common setback that guys new to M-105 make is to use the foam pad priming spray that you mentioned using. There's something in those products that make them slick, that same ingredient "theoretically" would change or alter the way a fast cutting fast flashing compound "should" work, making it take longer to work and potentially hyper-lubricating the abrasives in the compound, resulting in a less effective product.
If a product it designed to flash (or dry out) quickly, then it stands to reason that the product also needs to be worked over the paint for a sufficient amount of time as to get the desired "swirl free" results, before it does flash completely dry. The way to achieve this (product unaltered) is to do longer, slower (arm speed) section passes in a smaller work section.
Additionally, the abrasives in M-105 don't stop working just because you don't see a wet trail of product following the pad as you work it across the paint. Work it til it is gone and if you are left with a bad haze then your pad is likely what's leaving the haze behind, or you're not working clean and dirt or other stuff (spent product not cleaned from your pad from a previous attempt) is the cause of the hazing.
M-105 is not reliant on a cutting pad to do the work. I actually find that a foam pad with smaller cells like a polishing pad works better to keep more abrasives against the paint, producing faster, nicer work.
To add more product, so the pad stays wet and dusts less simply hyper lubricates the abrasives rendering the cutting action less effective.
To add some M-205, so the pad stays wet and dusts less simply hyper lubricates the abrasives rendering the cutting action less effective.
To add mineral oil or baby oil, so the pad stays wet and dusts less simply hyper lubricates the abrasives rendering the cutting action less effective.
The product can be worked to it's potential with less dusting and fast cutting but it requires a technique and certain amount of product used and worked for a certain amount of time, at a certain machine and arm speed. These factors change with every car you work on and really can't be taught. It's something you work out during the process of working on each car, and the more experience you have working with M-105 the easier it gets.
