M205 Dust Dried and Stuck on Paint

Soulman1980

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I apologize if this has been covered, I tried searching through the forum and found dozens of article on annoyances of dusing in general, but none specific to this.

I used 205 on my black Acura TL, however I had started polishing later in the evening as the sun was setting and it was getting dark.

I noticed dust getting all over the place and tried just "dusting" it off the panels as I went along.

The next day it rained, thunderstorm, dirt, grime, etc.. I had neglected the car for the past two weeks, yesterday I cleaned it all up to find white speckles of M205 dust over the entire car. Most likely such fine particles I didn't see it in the dark.

I tried QD and it didn't even touch it. It looks like someone spattered white paint over the entire car. Worse yet there are now thousands of small microfibers stuck to each speckle from drying the car.

What a mess....

Is there anything that can take this off easily? (I have not tried clay yet).

Despite having read so much about taping off a car prior to polishing, it never hit me it could be this bad trying to clean up after the fact.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

thanks,
Justin
 
I haven't experienced dusting with M205, not saying it won't happen but I've used it a lot. M105 on the other, I have experienced dusting with. Just grab your best micro fiber towel and a bottle of Isopropyl alcohol or if you really want to place an order at Autogeek, Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner. :xyxthumbs:
 
Actually - come to think of it I used 105 followed by 205.. on two seperate days though. It MAY be from the 105, but I'm nearly certain I would of noticed it going through w/ the 205....but I could be wrong.
 
Either way just spray some IPA and wipe off :) Just don't grind into and risk marring the paint. If needed, spray, allow to dwell, then spray and wipe away. I prefer Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner personally but IPA is everywhere.

*Edit - Sorry Mike, just realized this is your forum :doh:
 
thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot.. I've never used alochol on a car before, but I've seen it mentioned a lot in these forums.

Thanks again - I'll update the post w/ results!
 
Give the car a good soaking with a good sudsy car wash like Meg's Gold Class and then clay. 205 is water soluable, but you let it dry rock hard. It's gonna be like trying to get cement off. May take a few soakings. Good luck, and don't do that again.
 
From my experience (which is pretty limited), you will have better luck with a strong soap than alcohol removing completely dried polishing residue. My suggestion would be to use a paint safe APC (all purpose cleaner) at a LOW dilution. I use Megs APC+ on all exterior surfaces at about 15:1 to 20:1 (it's not marketed for exterior but is considered very safe when diluted). Spray the car (cool, no sun) with it or apply with MF out of a bucket and let it sit about a few minutes but don't let it dry. Repeat soak stage. Rinse with water. Wipe dissolved scums carefully with MF. Final rinse (I use distilled water with a little ONR) and dry. APC should get you down to bare paint + anything that's really embedded or super nasty (clay required).
 
Either way just spray some IPA and wipe off :) Just don't grind into and risk marring the paint. If needed, spray, allow to dwell, then spray and wipe away. I prefer Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner personally but IPA is everywhere.

I'd be VERY CAREFUL using IPA on paint. IPA is a solvent for the clear. A guy in another thread just dissolved a spot of clear w/ IPA trying to remove tree sap. Use it if you wish, just realize that you're assuming a risk if you do.
 
Would Poor Boys APC / Degreaser fit the bill?

I just bought a bottle of it and havn't used it yet:
Poorboy’s Bio-Degradable All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser: bleach-free, all purpose cleaner for most interior and exterior surfaces.

Thanks,
Justin


I would wait for confirmation from somebody that will check out the MSDS for you, but the answer is probably yes. For safety, I would not use it higher than 10:1 (perhaps start at 20:1 and see if it breaks up the residue) and don't let it dry.



From detailedimage:
Product Description

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NOTE - Not intended to be applied to hot, uncoated or highly polished metal & wheels. Triggers are not included with the following sizes: 32 oz
Product Information


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I'd be VERY CAREFUL using IPA on paint. IPA is a solvent for the clear. A guy in another thread just dissolved a spot of clear w/ IPA trying to remove tree sap. Use it if you wish, just realize that you're assuming a risk if you do.

I have used IPA many, many times with no harsh effects. In fact, I've never had it change the paint thickness readings either. Not sure what the other guy was doing or how thin the paint was, but even when I used it on a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo VIII with paint thickness readings ranging from 2.3mil - 3mil (door jambs at 1.7mil) I had no adverse effects. Like I said, I prefer Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner over IPA. Please link me to the other thread as this sounds very interesting.

The funny thing is 2 weeks ago I did a 1 step on a 2003 4Runner and had to work on it after work each day for 3 days. On Saturday as I was detailing it I found M105 splatter. Simply sprayed a little Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner on the splatter then sprayed my micro fiber towel and guess what? It wiped right off. No need to use an apc. My situation my have been different but until you try don't say "IPA won't work, it's not strong enough. You need to wash with an apc".

OP, you should read Mike Phillips' article on how to mix IPA to inspect your results. This could be used to clean your paint too. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
 
My situation my have been different but until you try don't say "IPA won't work, it's not strong enough. You need to wash with an apc".

I never suggested an APC. I suggest a soaking wash with Gold Class.
 
Seems like clay bar and then re-applying sealant or wax would be the safe route to go.
 
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