maintenance wash combo - D114 + D156?

SwiftTone

SwiftTone

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I'm not a detail nut but I like to keep my cars looking clean. I'm trying to assemble products that are easy to use, economical, and produce good results. I've never really detailed other than using Meguiar's cleaner wax on my motorcycle but I think I was using it incorrectly.

Recently brought my new car to a detailer who did a full exterior which included wash, clay, localized compounding, polished, and a coat of 476s. I did use a bottle of Iron X before I brought it to him. Paint feels smooth. I haven't decided how far I want to get into detailing so not sure if I'll get it professionally done on a annual basis or invest in a DA and more stuff.

For the maintenance care between full exterior details I was thinking of using D114 at least as rinseless wash, waterless wash, or quick detailer. I'm also considering D156 as a spray wax as well as a drying aid.

For those particular times that the vehicle is especially dirty I already have CG Mr. Pink via 2 bucket wash which is supposed to be wax safe.

After the pro detailer I made the mistake of wiping down a dusty car using Mother's quick detailer. I think I scratched the paint lightly. Any fixes for this that I can do by hand?
 
If the whole car is lightly scratched from wiping the dusty car, by hand will take forever and the results may not be up to par. A DA polisher is your best bet.

As far as a maintenance products, the two you listed are excellent.
 
In the spirit of being politically correct: You may or may not also consider Meguiars D115 Rinse Free Express Wash and Wax and use it as a waterless wash. You may or may not also consider using it as a Rinseless wash because it can or cannot definitely be used in this fashion and the dilution ratio may or may not be endorsed by Meguiars as "adding a few ounces" in 2 gallons of water. D115 may or may not contain carnuba wax depending on which forum you read.
 
Or you could just use Wolfgang Uber rinseless wash.
 
Using Meguiar's D114, at Meguiar's recommended
RW or WW dilution ratios, should have little to no
adverse affects on the 476s.

As such:
Applying Meguiar's D156 after performing either
the D114-RW/WW would not be, IMO, a necessity.

However:
Many people will use D156 after performing
a typical (2) bucket car-wash session...
regardless the LSP.


Note:
If D114 does/would adversely affect a
particular LSP...then, IMO, it's time to
switch to a more satisfactory one.


Bob
 
pheerix said:
In the spirit of being politically correct:
You may or may not also consider Meguiars
D115 Rinse Free Express Wash and Wax
and use it as a waterless wash.

You may or may not also consider using it as
a Rinseless wash because it can or cannot
definitely be used in this fashion

and the dilution ratio may or may not be
endorsed by Meguiars as "adding a few ounces"
in 2 gallons of water.

D115 may or may not contain carnuba wax
depending on which forum you read.
Click to expand...
I read the below post on AGO's forum:
pheerix said:
Depends if you want protection left behind.
D115 will leave behind some wax
whereas D114 will leave nothing behind.
Click to expand...


Bob
 
Per Mr. Stoops
Waxes with carnauba:
Gold Class Carnauba Plus
Deep Crystal Carnauba
ColorX
M66 Quick Detailer
White Wax
Black Wax
Cleaner Wax
M26 High Tech Yellow Wax
M20 Polymer Sealant
D151 Paint Reconditioning Creme
D301 DA Finishing Wax
M305 Ultra Finishing Durable Glaze


Washes with carnauba:
Ultimate Wash & Wax
Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere
D115 Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax


Quick detail sprays with carnauba:
None


Quick waxes with carnauba:
Quik Wax
Gold Class Quik Wax
Ultimate Quik Wax
D156 Synthetic Express Spray Wax



Before we discuss this any further, let's look at the word that seems almost taboo for the carnauba lovers out there. Oh, and Top Gear, we are NOT singling you out here as there are countless car guys who swear by carnauba waxes and couldn't be persuaded to switch to a full synthetic for any reason. You, sir, are most definitely not alone!! That word? Polymer (gasp!!). OK, for something to be classified as a "polymer" it needs nothing more than to fit this rather broad definition: "a substance that has a molecular structure consisting chiefly or entirely of a large number of similar units bonded together, e.g., many synthetic organic materials used as plastics and resins." (thank you, Google) Yep, that's an enormous family of material. Styrofoam is composed of a polymer structure, and basically so is deoxyribonucleic acid (yes, DNA). And DNA is, of course, the stuff inside us that determines what each of us, individually, looks like (among other things). Nobody is going to confuse the properties of styrofoam with those of DNA and yet...... both are polymers.

Now, for the hard core carnauba guy the big question is in what percentage is the carnauba mixed with other ingredients, including synthetic polymers that may or may not provide the majority of the desired characteristics of the product. For example, there are polymers of some sort in virtually all of our waxes, but as has been discussed in the past the word "polymer" is an incredibly broad, sweeping term. Sometimes the polymer(s) in a product are there for nothing more than ease of application or removal (sometimes simply in the form of a polysiloxanes of some sort - yes, silicone) and nothing more. Further, some silicones are fantastic gloss enhancers and others, not so much. Which ones are used is determined by the design intent of the product. For example, D155 Last Touch contains a pretty solid load of gloss enhancing silicones, which is why so many people love the gloss it provides. But it contains neither carnauba wax nor the hydrophobic polymers found in products like Ultimate Quik Detailer, Ultimate Quik Wax, NXT Tech Wax 2.0 or Ultimate Wax, among others.

Looking at the group of waxes that listed above that do contain carnauba, each also contains other ingredients (of course!) that make the carnauba usable in the first place (solvents - some of which could even be polymers in and of themselves [how's that for confusing the situation, huh???]); ingredients that make the product easier to use; products that help to enhance gloss. For example, we consider Gold Class Carnauba Plus to be a "polish/wax" since it also contains some polishing oils not terribly different from those found in M07 Show Car Glaze. It is possible that at least some of those oils could be in the form of a polymer. Deep Crystal Carnauba and M26 are what we call "pure waxes", meaning they contain no polish but also no cleaning ability.

In each of those waxes, however, the primary form of protection - and the primary visual appearance - is down to the carnauba content. Products like Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere or Ultimate Quik Wax get the majority of their protection from the polymers used. Any carnauba content in them is secondary, really. The extreme water beading they create is also down to the polymers in them, specifically those water fearing (hydrophobic) polymers added to their formulation that are missing from products like Gold Class, M26 and even M20.

So what is the hard core carnauba lover to do? Well, we made Gold Class Quik Detailer and Gold Class Quik Wax specifically to compliment Gold Class Carnauba Plus wax. Probably the most common descriptor given to carnauba waxes is the darkening of the paint (or deepening of the paint, wetness of the paint, depth - anything having to do with that deep appearance given to darker colors). So the polymers selected for use in GCQD are those that continue to enhance that look. The polymers used in GCQW, plus the actual carnauba in it, also are chosen for their ability to enhance that property. We've even prepared test panels using side by side by side sections of Quik Wax, Gold Class Quik Wax, and Ultimate Quik Wax. The GCQW section looked darker than the other two, but once you got them wet the UQW side shed water like a duck - noticeably better than the GCQW did. And that's really all down to the selected polymers in the two products.

There really is no "right" or "wrong" combination here. We all like what we like, and we fully understand anyone's desire to stay within a certain product mix or to strive for the maximum result of the look they individually desire. Heck, we not only understand it, we applaud it!!! Come on, that's practically the definition of "passion", right?
 
I use d114 and d156 on my car. I don't have time for the 2bucket so d114 and d156 every week or twice a week gets it done for me. When I feel like treating the car I'll put megs hitech yellow wax.
 
I know about the D115 product. As far as I know, it's more expensive ($60+), dilution ratio is lower, and it's a one step compared to D114+D156 which takes 2 steps to do the same thing. The reason why I chose those 2 products is that it's more versatile where I can use it together or separately. D114 also can be used as a RW, WW, or QD. D156 can be used as spray wax or drying aid. Since D114 doesn't contain wax and actually strips wax at low dilution ratios, I can use it before waxing.

I guess I'm not interested in carnuba wax (that D115 may or may not contain) because my car is non-metallic white so I'm not looking for depth.

Now moving on to Wolfgang Uber rinseless wash, it's about $16 for 16oz.. It's less economical than D114 but D114 is only available in gallon size. I think it was Bob that said that a gallon of D114 makes almost 5 55gallon barrels of mixed solution. That is literally going to last me a decade.

Does the Wolfgang contain wax? Can I use it to strip wax at low dilution ratios?

Thanks in advance!
 
SwiftTone said:
I
Does the Wolfgang contain wax? Can I use it to strip wax at low dilution ratios?
Click to expand...


Doesn't contain wax in the traditional sense but it does contain glossing and slickness agents/polymers much like a quick detailer would. You can't use it to strip wax.
 
As far as buying your own DA and doing your own polishing. Your initial investment will last you a REALLY long time with as little as you will polish, and judging by some quotes I got, will have paid for itself after I do both of my vehicles the first time.
 
I always use 115 as a drying aid and then use 156 after that about monthly
 
Sounds like a simple, straight forward plan. These two products will serve your needs well. You can always try other stuff later through trade should you feel like expanding your arsenal.

And I agreed with the gents. A nice DA (Griot's/Porter-Cable) will pay for itself in no time. With attachments, you could tackle all sorts of jobs; headlight restoration, carpet cleaning, exterior trim rejuvenation, tires....to name a few.
 
Swiftone,

I've used D114 & D156 weekly (when my '16 Pilot is not dirty enough to need a foam bath with 2 bucket) and have had no issues.

I've put Menzerna Powerlock & Colorlock on and use the Meg's MF mitt (small 2 bucket method) or 600gsm towels (Gary Dean method) with D156 as my drying aid. So far no adverse issues with the paint.

For the price and performance I have no complaints. The Pilot is black and my wife's dailydriver. She never misses a puddle
 
I did end up purchasing D114 and D156. Its in the mail somewhere.

Is there a way to mix these together so I can apply wax while using. Basically creating something like D115. For example: add D156 to the bucket of solution of D114, or add D156 to a spray bottle with D114 in it.
 
Just spray some D156 on the wet paint before you dry. I do this with Optimum Car Wax, Prima Hydro, Opti-seal etc.
 
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