Major problems!!!

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matteo86

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Hi everyone, i posted before under my friend about a lancer ralliart. Anyways today we tried it again this time we bumped up to a yellow LC pad and SSR3 to remove the swrils.
After working it in, no swrils were removed and this happend (see pic)

View attachment 1222

looks like it ripped the paint i guess...werid thing is..its flush to the curve

now sorry if i pissed but wtf is going on heh. The swrils in crazy deep...clear coat missing or what?.. What should i do...

So people reading htis know we tried orange with ssr2.5 and it wouldnt work... i tried the same setup on a silverado and it worked flawlessly.


Thanks in advance,

Matteo

Here is a bigger pic: http://smnetworks.ca/S36000233.JPG
 
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paint is always lightest on edges and corners, you must take care and passion when working these areas. Also a yellow pad, is truly to aggressive in most instances for use. Trying sticking to white or orange as a worst case when using LC pads.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
paint is always lightest on edges and corners, you must take care and passion when working these areas. Also a yellow pad, is truly to aggressive in most instances for use. Trying sticking to white or orange as a worst case when using LC pads.
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Ok so is that basically stripped paint... ?
 
:eek: Ouch. Sorry to see that. A yellow pad. Were they horrible swirls?
 
Lone_Star said:
:eek: Ouch. Sorry to see that. A yellow pad. Were they horrible swirls?
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Very... and funny thing is they still wont come out
ill try a level surface and try to fix this thing.
 
Looks that way to me, like killer said on the corners you got to becareful.
I have that same problem on my SUV, I have lots of grooves on the roof top area and the CC is failing on the corners and curves. Rest of the vehicles paint is fine. :o
 
Hey Matteo,

Sorry to hear about your little booboo my friend but what machine were you using? PC? or Rotary? (sorry I don't recall your earlier post). Now, have you tried wiping the area with a mix of Isopropyl and water? The reason I say this is because I had the same issues when I detailed my Volvo and I thought I had burnt the paint at the edges and all it was polish that did not break down properly. So I spray the area, well actually I do this every time I'm dong any polishing. After I polish I spray the area with Isopropyl mixed with water and it removes anything that is left over by the polish or compound. This helps show you if you have removed all swirls as well because it removes all oils left from polishing.

Well just my opinion, if you used a PC and a yellow LC pad I just can't see the PC burning paint or ripping the paint for that matter. PC does not have the power to do that.
 
Nica said:
Well just my opinion, if you used a PC and a yellow LC pad I just can't see the PC burning paint or ripping the paint for that matter. PC does not have the power to do that.
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I beg to differ... and I'm sure Matteo does as well :o. People have a false sense of security when using the PC. However, when used with the wrong pad / product combo combined with thin paint, the PC can and will do damage. SSR3 is like liquid sandpaper and is made for professionals. The yellow LC pad is also the strongest-- so right off the bat you used the 2 most aggessive things, which you shouldn't have. If the SSR2.5 didn't work with an orange, my next step, if all else failed, would be SSR3 with a polishing pad or maybe a orange light cut pad... SSR3 is a good product if you let the product do the work and if you are careful with it. Did you happen to read this thread http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/porter-cable-7424-pad-forum/5739-why-aggressive-pads.html? A PC is a great tool but I think you may be pushing its limits with this car. If SSR2.5 and the orange light cut pad didn't remove the swirls, maybe you should think about having someone buff it out with a rotary...
 
yea i dunno wtf is going on...when u work it in how hot should the paint feel after?
Maybe its just the lancer but i dont think i will countiue doing this cuz i prob make it worse
 
I wouldn't continue using the yellow pad and SSR3 ... that's for sure. If you do decide to continue on doing it yourself, try SSR3 with a polishing pad... At this point in time I'm sure you'd rather have the finish look better, not perfect...
 
I have gone through the clearcoat in thin areas with a PC using an orange LC pad and SSR2.5.

As was stated, a PC is a great tool, but areas which have been made "thin" through repeated polishing or were just thin to begin with are susceptible to CC break through even with a PC.

In order to remove the swirls you have to remove CC (no matter what machine you use) and there is a point where you might just need to live with some swirls/fine scratches. JMO.
 
budman3 said:
I wouldn't continue using the yellow pad and SSR3 ... that's for sure. If you do decide to continue on doing it yourself, try SSR3 with a polishing pad... At this point in time I'm sure you'd rather have the finish look better, not perfect...
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yea i tried out the orange with 3... nothing and now im worrying its gonna burn more even if open areas... i think maybe just got one of thos estubborn cars. cuz when i tested the truck it was a joke...oh well
 
Waxmax said:
I have gone through the clearcoat in thin areas with a PC using an orange LC pad and SSR2.5.

As was stated, a PC is a great tool, but areas which have been made "thin" through repeated polishing or were just thin to begin with are susceptible to CC break through even with a PC.

In order to remove the swirls you have to remove CC (no matter what machine you use) and there is a point where you might just need to live with some swirls/fine scratches. JMO.
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Thanks... you make a valid point.. im very sad cuz its a black car...but it seems that there very deep swrils.. i mean the ssr and yellow wouldnt pull them out.. hell it was gonna take the paint before swrils lol. Guess i might let it be for a while...but it cant definately burn cuz the paint does warm upalot.
 
I sympathize. It is possible that the defects are in the base paint. You never know the quality of the factory paint job and clearcoating, and some areas are just thin on CC to begin with.
 
Waxmax said:
I sympathize. It is possible that the defects are in the base paint. You never know the quality of the factory paint job and clearcoating, and some areas are just thin on CC to begin with.
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thanks.. you are right.. its sad but oh well at leas thte car preforms :) hehe

Thanks everyone for there posts
 
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