Making the move from da to direct drive

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tbaz

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All the research makes me hesitate from making the switch, I'm very experienced with the da in all aspects but correction removal takes way to long to be profitable, all the warnings about direct drive is intimidating. with my experience with pressures motion and time on task with the da should it be a pretty easy transition to rotary taking caution, or a whole new animal?
 
The main things to remember with a rotary. Keep it moving, watch out for door, hood, trunk edges ( you want the pad spinning off the edge, not into it) and you want to be fast in those areas as the paint can be thinner there. Use a finishing pad at first until you know the rotaries peculiarities ( less chance of damage). Foam pads will create more heat than wool pads in my opinion. I have been using rotaries for over 40 years now and you need to pay attention to what you are doing. The only real downside with a rotary is material sling, it seems no matter how I try it goes everywhere, so if I am only doing partials like headlights I blanket the front end to minimize clean up.

Dave
 
Thanks , that being said can I use my 6 inch pads/plate on a rotary I have a tonne of Meg's correction system microfiber pads ?
 
davidc said:
The main things to remember with a rotary. Keep it moving, watch out for door, hood, trunk edges ( you want the pad spinning off the edge, not into it) and you want to be fast in those areas as the paint can be thinner there. Use a finishing pad at first until you know the rotaries peculiarities ( less chance of damage). Foam pads will create more heat than wool pads in my opinion. I have been using rotaries for over 40 years now and you need to pay attention to what you are doing. The only real downside with a rotary is material sling, it seems no matter how I try it goes everywhere, so if I am only doing partials like headlights I blanket the front end to minimize clean up.

Dave
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I agree. Iv'e used a rotary since 1977. Never any problems. I don't use it much now though because I have a 3401. Being in to much of a hurry is the downfall. Fast makes heat , heat makes burn. Rome wasn't built in a day.
 
tbaz said:
Thanks , that being said can I use my 6 inch pads/plate on a rotary I have a tonne of Meg's correction system microfiber pads ?
Click to expand...

The rotary is going to be a different spindle so DA back plate will not fit. Never used MF pads so no comment. All the pads I have bought have been for a rotary, a combination of 6 and 8 wool and foam. All of that stuff was from Edge until 3m managed to screw that up.

Dave
 
Just my opinion, if I were going to try a rotary and was not really familiar with them I would go to Harbor Freight and pick one up. Minimal expense at first then get the higher priced unit later. That is what I did with the DA I have now and it may last forever as it gets minimal use as the primary tool is the rotary. Your thoughts may vary.

Dave
 
Just be aware if your using a rotary, as a beginner, you will very likely have to follow it with a DA to get rid of the holograms. However if you go with the 3401 it'll cut almost as fast and leave none.
 
Nomadsto said:
Just be aware if your using a rotary, as a beginner, you will very likely have to follow it with a DA to get rid of the holograms. However if you go with the 3401 it'll cut almost as fast and leave none.
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:iagree:

Flex 3401 VRG Best way to go and best compromise from a rotary and DA...kind of like a hybrid rotary/DA.
 
Once you learn the rotary you'll never look back:)

I have the DeWalt 849x, I tell you it's so smooth and steers like a dream.
For small, tight areas use a 3" pad with an extension, it just makes the job that much easier.
 
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