Try putting a soft 100% wool bonnet with an old thin foam finishing pad between it and the rubber plate that comes with the buffer.
I remember wool bonnets, for the old orbital buffers and they were also sold for use on early rotary buffers, they had a string running through the perimeter so you could pull it tight and then tie it off.
We don't have any wool bonnets here at AG but we do have some cotton and microfiber bonnets for the old orbital buffers. They have been relegated to being wax spreaders now days....
The Traditional Orbital Buffer aka The Wax Spreader
Then put a thin coat of one of the hardest sealers or waxes like Klasse Sealant Glaze and walk off and let it dry completely. Any one that has used these know how hard they are to remove.
Yep... if you apply anything but a THIN coat of KSG you will break your arm trying to wipe it off and probably scratch your paint in the process.
I wrote an article for KSG but I didn't use the brand name in the article because I didn't want to scare anyone away from using it... instead a I wrote a generic tip that if a person reads the info and follows the tip it will prevent them from making a mistake.
A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you
Tip: Test to small area first
Anytime you're going to use a wax, paint sealant or coating that is a product you've never used before, especially if you're planning on applying it to the entire car... to get a feel for how the product applies and most important, how it wipes off,
first test the product to a small area.
This way you'll be familiar with the
application and wipe-off characteristics for the specific product before applying to the entire car.
A small area = about a foot squared
The average size square microfiber towel is 16" by 16", which is a little larger than a foot squared. So for your test section, lay a clean microfiber towel out flat, like this,
Then use this area as a guide as to how large of an area to apply the product onto in order to get a good feel for both the application and wipe-off characteristics of the new-to-you product.
Follow the manufactures directions
Manufactures know their product formulas best so take a moment to read the directions for application and removal on the label and then follow them as recommended.
Waxes and Paint Sealants that dry
If the directions state that you should allow the product to dry to haze before removal then allow the product to dry before removing it.
The Swipe Test
Here's a handy test to check and see if a wax or paint sealant is dry and ready to remove,
The Swipe Test
Wipe-on, wipe-off waxes and paint sealants
Some products are formulated to be removed before they dry, these are called
wipe-on, wipe-off waxes. If you're using a wipe-on, wipe-off wax then immediately after applying the wax to the entire car go ahead and remove it.
Products vary and climatic conditions vary
The chemistry between products can be very different; some products wipe off a tick on the difficult side while some products wipe off incredibly easy.
Products perform differently in different environmental conditions; a product that applies and remove easily in a humid area may apply and wipe off with great difficulty in another geographical location that's hot and dry.
The idea behind this tip is for you to become acquainted with a product you've never used before in your specific geographical, environmental and climatic location.
For some people, what this may teach them is the
importance of applying a
thin coating and if you're new to the world of detailing in general and waxing by hand in specific, you might not know 100% exactly what is meant by a thin coating and you don't want to learn what thin means the hard way.
Dampen the wool pad with the product and let it dry.
Dampen the wool
bonnet over the foam finishing pad?
Try putting a soft 100% wool bonnet with an old thin foam finishing pad between it and the rubber plate that comes with the buffer.
Just trying to make sure I've reading your correctly.
I can't explain why this works but it will buff to a brilliant shine with no swirl marks.
I trust your Gary, sounds like you've been buffing with a rotary buffer longer than me but I do have to say, from my experience, if we're talking about any type of WOOL bonnet or pad, that is something with individual fibers being pressed against paint in a single, rotating direction, then my experience is the fibers themselves will cut the paint and leave behind swirls or holograms.
I test everything on clearcoated black paint and then inspect in full sun like this and again, from experience, it's not the product you mention but the fibers themselves that can and will impart a scratch pattern. You might not see it on white or light colors but you will see it on black in full sun.
It's possible the KSG is filling the scratches in and creating the illusion of a swirl-free finish.
After two or three layers of Klasse , white and other light colors take on a rainbow like blue cast in bright light.
That's interesting... never seen that before...
Results are amazing and long lasting. The wool bonnet takes it off completely dry with little effort and no dust or build up on the bonnet with almost no heat.
Put it aside and don't wash it so you can use it again for that product only. I occasionally fluff the bonnet with a spur.
It's one of the most enjoyable and rewarding technical that I use.
And that last sentence.... that's really the only thing that's important. That is... your technique works for you.
I'll have to try your technique sometime. I don't have any wool bonnets but next time I see one I'll snag it and test out your technique.
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