Makita 9227C gets a makeover...

Thanks for all of the replies and interest. As I stated the product, like Klasse SG, has to be one that dries harder than most, ones that if allowed to dry completely are almost impossible to wipe off dry by hand. The bonnet has to be pure wool, no synthetic fiber and wool blends, like most screw on pads. I buy the bonnets at a nation wide auto parts store out of Texas. They always have them is stock, but are getting harder to find. The pads are extremely plush, not at all like a polishing pad, which are course.

I said to dampen the pad not wet it. It can be off the buffer, the soft foam pad that I place under the bonnet is just to give some cushion while buffing. It has been my experience over the years that most holograms produced while dry buffing a top coat are in the wax, not the paint, especially with most soft waxes that do not dry hard or take a long time to cure.

I use a very light touch, keep the machine moving and set it on a low speed. I set mine on 1000 RPM, it's slowest speed. I think the wool fibers absorb the sealant and it gets impregnated into the pad. Kind of like on like. I wait 24 hours between layering coats to get the best rainbow effect. I will do one in the next few weeks and take some pictures with bright lights and post them. Thanks for the friendly discussion. Just wanted to share some of the technics I've learned over the years. Gary
 
I just realized that I may have confused everyone. I didn't mean to imply that I was removing swirl marks or holograms out of the paint. My post on Klasse SG was just to help in a way to remove a product in an easy way with a rotary buffer and get excellent results. It probably does fill in scratches and swirl marks in paint but that wasn't the reason for my post. I polish out defects first with another machine and different products. Thanks, Gary

P.S. Have learned how to spell Technique.
 
It has been my experience over the years that most holograms produced while dry buffing a top coat are in the wax, not the paint, especially with most soft waxes that do not dry hard or take a long time to cure.

No dry buffing here...because I wiped the product, M105, off before it dried out. These holograms ARE in the paint for sure as there is no wax on this hood at all.

Resorted to the rotary, w4000 wool pad, and M105. Left some tracks (holograms). Only needed one set of section passes with wool on each section of the entire hood.
800_Trashed_Trailblazer_138.jpg



This is after an intermediate step with Dyna-brade DA attachment on my rotary paired with a Meguiar's yellow polishing pad and M105.
800_Trashed_Trailblazer_140.jpg


Not trying to be argumentative, just not sure I understood what you meant by saying the holograms are in the wax and not the paint.


(Click o the little red box in the above quote with pictures to view the entire write-up.)



Anyway...to keep this thread on track...

I too would like to see some reviews of the new Makita rotary. Looks very promising.
 
I have this rotary for trade I'm looking for a rupes or a flex... Message my inbox if interested.
 
I think I have the same Makita dinosaur Mike has - 9217C. Still running,thought it was dead & got a deal on a 849X I couldn't pass up. Turns out it just needed a new power cord. I do agree you can't go wrong with either. I like using the lower rpm ranges for most uses. Less chance to burn anything at the slower speeds IMO.
 
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