Many Tiny white specks on black paint...

[MarkD51]

That's a great story. Thanks for sharing. On a scale of 1-10, what is your skill level? I am a beginner but get good results with polishing and sealants. Just starting out with my DA and getting good results. How much paint experience do I need to use the D Color Chip system?

Not sure who's experience you're asking about? Me, I'm now basically just a hobbyist hack, but have been detailing my own cars for over 40 years. And I used to do friend's vehicles, from daily drivers, to classics.

Addressing your one question about the skill level needed to use Dr. Colorchip, about the only way I can best explain it, "it's so simple a caveman can do it".

There is absolutely no worry that the solvents in this paint can somehow etch the existing finish on the vehicle, you can splash the stuff around, and not worry about such.

IMO, it is a heck of a lot easier than any factory touch up paint because it dries so quickly, and has a considerably less tendency to run. Meaning, it's an absolute joy to use on vertical panels.

With the Sealact Solution that comes in the kit, there is a little learning curve there. Since it does settle and separate quickly, one should always shake well to insure the components are mixed in the Solution each time you use the product.

I will first inspect the panels, identify where all chip damage is, and have commonly used little pieces of masking tape, to mark the chips if they are small and random, this way as I walk around the vehicle, there's less searching again for them. I then walk around the vehicle and apply. Do insure you have prepped these chip areas, to remove any waxes-sealants that may be in the chip.

Dependent upon temperatures, adequate set of time of the paint ranges from only 2-3 minutes on average, to perhaps no longer than 5-6 minutes. To wait longer than this, then you will work a bit harder with the Sealact Solution, which means a bit more rubbing needed to finesse the blob down to level, and as well will also use more Sealact Solution product.

There's no worry of messing up, the worst that can happen is you could possibly go a little too far with the Sealact Solution leveling, and then need to re-apply paint again. And if you notice that the paint has not adequately filled a deeper chip, one can simply apply more coats of the paint, and repeat the process until satisfactory results are attained.

When using the "dab and smear" technique like shown in the Dr C-Chip Videos, I then usually will address removing the smeared paint around he chip first. Then with lighter and lighter pressure, finesse the touch up, to the point that you are virtually using no pressure of the little towel, but just letting the solvent properties of the Sealact Solution do its job.

The better the lighting, and the closer you can be to the chip and the surface of the paint, the better. It helps to move your head around, look at what you're doing from a few different angles. You may wipe any film haze at any point with a soft clean MF Towel. to clarify the surface better.

If the touchup paint seems to be removing from the chip a bit too easily, and you're finding that you're then totally removing the paint from the chip with the Solution, then slightly increase the dry time of the paint. It will then have a tendency to be harder to remove, and will then stay put in the chip a bit better.

After touch up has been completed, follow directions of the time needed to let the paint then fully cure, and dry. Then at this point you may clay, decon, polish, seal without worries of removing any of the touch up paint

Hope this all helps, and if others that are experienced with the use of this product, and can add to what I've said, please do chime in.
Mark

 

[OCDetails]

I have used dr c chip...with similar experience. ..it really is great stuff. When you have a chip you fill it, then wipe it with the liquid. The hole stays full and excess wipes right off. I love that it is a single stage paint so you don't even have to worry about getting a clear over it. In my case its really great because my paint is a solid color.

BUT.....The thing is that these specks are REALLY small, as in pin head small.. dust small. There is really nothing to actually fill. Like I said you can't even feel them.

One of my first experiments with Dr Colorchip was with the fantastic fractures left by someone throwing an egg at my car. Egg shells shatter the paint and left small cracks in this fantastic spiderweb pattern that no amount of polishing was ever going to get out. I mashed paint into it with Dr Colorchip and they vanished. These were probably similar in depth to the ones you have. The clear coat is basically just crushed and that is what causes it to be white. If you have Dr. Colorchip then I would definitely try using it. I wouldn't be surprised if they vanish at that point.

 

[Phokey]

I really don't think they are chips at all since he stated that he can't feel them and if you look at the picture he posted they look exactly like the tiny white "water looking" spots I had.

Just sayin.

 

[glfnaz]

Not sure who's experience you're asking about? Me, I'm now basically just a hobbyist hack, but have been detailing my own cars for over 40 years. And I used to do friend's vehicles, from daily drivers, to classics.

Addressing your one question about the skill level needed to use Dr. Colorchip, about the only way I can best explain it, "it's so simple a caveman can do it".

There is absolutely no worry that the solvents in this paint can somehow etch the existing finish on the vehicle, you can splash the stuff around, and not worry about such.

IMO, it is a heck of a lot easier than any factory touch up paint because it dries so quickly, and has a considerably less tendency to run. Meaning, it's an absolute joy to use on vertical panels.

With the Sealact Solution that comes in the kit, there is a little learning curve there. Since it does settle and separate quickly, one should always shake well to insure the components are mixed in the Solution each time you use the product.

I will first inspect the panels, identify where all chip damage is, and have commonly used little pieces of masking tape, to mark the chips if they are small and random, this way as I walk around the vehicle, there's less searching again for them. I then walk around the vehicle and apply. Do insure you have prepped these chip areas, to remove any waxes-sealants that may be in the chip.

Dependent upon temperatures, adequate set of time of the paint ranges from only 2-3 minutes on average, to perhaps no longer than 5-6 minutes. To wait longer than this, then you will work a bit harder with the Sealact Solution, which means a bit more rubbing needed to finesse the blob down to level, and as well will also use more Sealact Solution product.

There's no worry of messing up, the worst that can happen is you could possibly go a little too far with the Sealact Solution leveling, and then need to re-apply paint again. And if you notice that the paint has not adequately filled a deeper chip, one can simply apply more coats of the paint, and repeat the process until satisfactory results are attained.

When using the "dab and smear" technique like shown in the Dr C-Chip Videos, I then usually will address removing the smeared paint around he chip first. Then with lighter and lighter pressure, finesse the touch up, to the point that you are virtually using no pressure of the little towel, but just letting the solvent properties of the Sealact Solution do its job.

The better the lighting, and the closer you can be to the chip and the surface of the paint, the better. It helps to move your head around, look at what you're doing from a few different angles. You may wipe any film haze at any point with a soft clean MF Towel. to clarify the surface better.

If the touchup paint seems to be removing from the chip a bit too easily, and you're finding that you're then totally removing the paint from the chip with the Solution, then slightly increase the dry time of the paint. It will then have a tendency to be harder to remove, and will then stay put in the chip a bit better.

After touch up has been completed, follow directions of the time needed to let the paint then fully cure, and dry. Then at this point you may clay, decon, polish, seal without worries of removing any of the touch up paint

Hope this all helps, and if others that are experienced with the use of this product, and can add to what I've said, please do chime in.
Mark

Thank You!!

 

[onboost]

Thanks again for all the feedback all.

Phokey, thanks for the pics and info. The specks do look very similar to your pics. I think I am going to go ahead and pick up some compound and an orange pad and see if I can cut it a bit and see what happens. Thanks :xyxthumbs: