Mayday Mayday! Oxidation/clear coat failure comes back!

there was a recall from honda/acura on the darker paints for clearcoat faillure, I think they extended (in canada) the paint warranty to 7 years, my mother received a letter last year about this. From what I recall is was mostly on the hood and front fenders.
 
spinz said:
Thanks for posting this 2 years review! Seem like you are from Detailien?
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That isn't my review, it's just a link I had bookmarked. The detailer that did the review is a member here, but I'm not certain on what his username is.
 
After a week and a half, it is starting to oxidize, i can see the clarity is fading, paint feels a little bit rough.
The process is slower compared with before when using Sealant as LSP, but it is just a matter of time before the clarity all gone.

Here's the pic.
20140207_180230.jpg


I've done the best i can...
 
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If the clear coat is indeed failing, and that appears to be the case here, the ONLY way to fix it is to strip it and repaint. A modern, catalyzed clear coat does not oxidize in the same way those old single stage lacquers did.

Think of it this way: when bare, polished aluminum oxidizes it turns sort of white and chalking looking, much like those single stage lacquer paints did. Both surfaces can be polished back to a high gloss shine with the appropriate chemicals and tools, and both will retain that gloss with proper care. But a modern, catalyzed clear coat uses vastly different chemistry, and when it oxidizes (or fails for other reasons) it behaves more like steel when steel oxidizes. And we all know what that means - rust. Nasty, flaking, cracking rust that can only be gotten rid of by grinding it away or cutting it out and replacing the rotted material. If you grind it down and don't get it all, it will quickly spread again. This is what happens with a modern clear coat. And it only gets exacerbated by the fact that even when the clear is totally gone, the color coat under it is not glossy, nor can it be made glossy. It's not like they just started shooting clear coat on top of a glossy lacquer color coat. Nope, the color coat is totally different from a chemistry standpoint too.

Bottom line: once the clear starts to fail, there's no saving it. It must be sanded off, bead blasted off, or chemically stripped (choose your weapon) and the panel must be repainted. Everything else is essentially a band aid on a broken leg.
 
Michael Stoops said:
If the clear coat is indeed failing, and that appears to be the case here, the ONLY way to fix it is to strip it and repaint. A modern, catalyzed clear coat does not oxidize in the same way those old single stage lacquers did.

Think of it this way: when bare, polished aluminum oxidizes it turns sort of white and chalking looking, much like those single stage lacquer paints did. Both surfaces can be polished back to a high gloss shine with the appropriate chemicals and tools, and both will retain that gloss with proper care. But a modern, catalyzed clear coat uses vastly different chemistry, and when it oxidizes (or fails for other reasons) it behaves more like steel when steel oxidizes. And we all know what that means - rust. Nasty, flaking, cracking rust that can only be gotten rid of by grinding it away or cutting it out and replacing the rotted material. If you grind it down and don't get it all, it will quickly spread again. This is what happens with a modern clear coat. And it only gets exacerbated by the fact that even when the clear is totally gone, the color coat under it is not glossy, nor can it be made glossy. It's not like they just started shooting clear coat on top of a glossy lacquer color coat. Nope, the color coat is totally different from a chemistry standpoint too.

Bottom line: once the clear starts to fail, there's no saving it. It must be sanded off, bead blasted off, or chemically stripped (choose your weapon) and the panel must be repainted. Everything else is essentially a band aid on a broken leg.
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Thank you for summarizing this Michael!
Now I know the honest solution to clear coat failure is repaint.
:thankyousign:
 
GenesisCoupe said:
what about laying some Meguire's #7 on the paint and let it soak in a bit? Then polish it out with your polish/pad or choice.

There was a member who used Meguire's #7 on some very dull/oxidised paint and had great luck with it. Mike P. wrote an article on it too.
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Thats for single stage paint. It doesnt have a clear coat so the paint is able to soak up the oil.
 
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