McKee 37 Paint Coating Questions Before I Dive In

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mudhog79

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Hello All,

I will be picking up a new truck in a few weeks and have been thinking about what i want to do to protect the paint. The truck will be white, when i get it i will check to see if there are scratches or swirls (hopefully not, not expecting much). If the truck needs to be compounded/polished i would iron-x the vehicle, clay then polish. I have been reading and see that M105 and M205 have been a commonly recommended product (or would you recommend something else for a new vehicle) however i have read it is dusty and i live in South Louisiana where it is hot.

I have been reading a lot about the McKee 37 Paint Coating product. I am leaning towards that as well as their paint coating prep polish and the coating. I assume i would use this after i have used the above mentioned products?

After all of the polishing is it also a good idea to be double sure the paint is clean or any oil or anything else to do an IPA wipe?

Once i put the coating on and let is cure are there any other products recommended to put over the coating? Waxes, sealants or anything else?

Thanks for the input.
 
Welcome to A-G!
I've done 3 of our cars with M 37 Coating. I'm just a hobbyist.
After the M 37 prep wipe you don't need an additional IPA wipe. It does the same thing.
The great thing about M 37 coating is you can get 5-6 cars from the 4 oz bottle.
I maintain the cars with rinse less washes of the M 37 Rinse-less wash, usually as a water less wash.
Beyond that I use Gyeon Cure once a month which is a SIO2 booster product (quartz ceramic).
It is easy, and looks great.
My cars are 7 months into the coating and they look like day 1.
For washing as waterless or rinseless, get really good towels. At least 10 dedicated wash towels.
 
I hesitate to muddy the waters for you, but I think it was custmsprty (forum member) that did a white Nissan with Polish Angel Viking Coat and it looked spectacular. I only bring this up because it can sometimes be difficult to get that "pop" out of white vehicles. And POP was definitely achieved with the Viking Coat. Maybe look into it? It sounds like you still searching for possibilities.
 
glfnaz said:
Welcome to A-G!
I've done 3 of our cars with M 37 Coating. I'm just a hobbyist.
After the M 37 prep wipe you don't need an additional IPA wipe. It does the same thing.
The great thing about M 37 coating is you can get 5-6 cars from the 4 oz bottle.
I maintain the cars with rinse less washes of the M 37 Rinse-less wash, usually as a water less wash.
Beyond that I use Gyeon Cure once a month which is a SIO2 booster product (quartz ceramic).
It is easy, and looks great.
My cars are 7 months into the coating and they look like day 1.
For washing as waterless or rinseless, get really good towels. At least 10 dedicated wash towels.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
Harpolith said:
I hesitate to muddy the waters for you, but I think it was custmsprty (forum member) that did a white Nissan with Polish Angel Viking Coat and it looked spectacular. I only bring this up because it can sometimes be difficult to get that "pop" out of white vehicles. And POP was definitely achieved with the Viking Coat. Maybe look into it? It sounds like you still searching for possibilities.
Click to expand...
Haha, yes there are so many option! I am not 100% set yet and will look at the producer you mentioned above as well.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
M205 is fine, but I would recommend a more user friendly compound like Meguiars Ultimate Compound instead of M105. Other good choices are the Wolfgang or Pinnacle twins, HD Cut and HD Polish, Menzerna Fg400 and SF3500.
 
mudhog79 said:
Hello All,

I will be picking up a new truck in a few weeks and have been thinking about what i want to do to protect the paint. The truck will be white, when i get it i will check to see if there are scratches or swirls (hopefully not, not expecting much). If the truck needs to be compounded/polished i would iron-x the vehicle, clay then polish. I have been reading and see that M105 and M205 have been a commonly recommended product (or would you recommend something else for a new vehicle) however i have read it is dusty and i live in South Louisiana where it is hot.

I have been reading a lot about the McKee 37 Paint Coating product. I am leaning towards that as well as their paint coating prep polish and the coating. I assume i would use this after i have used the above mentioned products?

After all of the polishing is it also a good idea to be double sure the paint is clean or any oil or anything else to do an IPA wipe?

Once i put the coating on and let is cure are there any other products recommended to put over the coating? Waxes, sealants or anything else?

Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum! Congrats on your new truck.

You are going to like using the McKee's 37 Paint coating, its a pleasure to apply and best of all extremely easy. The effort/reward ratio is off the charts!

I would recommend using McKee's 37 Fast Compound or Fast Polish, Now unfortunately no one can tell you if you need to compound your truck or not, Upon inspection you will have to determine that. If the truck isnt bad at all, Fast Polish would be the best choice, As it has really amazing cut for a finishing polish, Yet finishes amazing. So more than Likely Fast Polish would be the best bet for you. It is also very user friendly, If you are new to machine polishing it is very pleasant to work with and features long buffing cycles, no dusting, and easy wipe off. This is the route I would go!

As far as IPA wipedowns, I have never been a fan, like Mike Phillip's says IPA has horrible lubrication, and after hours and hours of polishing you can introduce towel marring, after your freshly polished surface, After I polish my cars, I do not want to touch them.

I would recommend picking up a bottle of N914 Rinseless Wash concentrate, if you dilute it @ 1:8 it can be used as a Panel Wipe to remove the residual polishing oils left behind, Best of all this is a rinseless/waterless wash so it offers a ton of lubrication, So you do not have to risk towel marring.

Afterwards you can use the N914 to maintain your coating using it as waterless wash, or a rinseless wash, It is an amazing product and you will like it.

I will post links below for everything I recommended.

I will also post some links for the write ups I did on the products I recommended!

Here is a video of me coating a Hyundai Genesis, I used Fast Polish + N914 @ 1:8 to prep the surface, and then we applied the paint coating, I would give it a watch before you install the coating, As there are many tips in the video to get the best results.



McKee's 37 N914 Rinseless Wash
McKee's 37 Fast Polish

1960.JPG


Write Up For The Hyundai Genesis: https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/mckee-s-37/109287-genesis-5-0-vs-mckee-s-37-a.html
 
Dan K said:
M205 is fine, but I would recommend a more user friendly compound like Meguiars Ultimate Compound instead of M105. Other good choices are the Wolfgang or Pinnacle twins, HD Cut and HD Polish, Menzerna Fg400 and SF3500.
Click to expand...

Curious as to what makes the M105 difficult to use?
Thanks!
 
Harpolith said:
I hesitate to muddy the waters for you, but I think it was custmsprty (forum member) that did a white Nissan with Polish Angel Viking Coat and it looked spectacular. I only bring this up because it can sometimes be difficult to get that "pop" out of white vehicles. And POP was definitely achieved with the Viking Coat. Maybe look into it? It sounds like you still searching for possibilities.
Click to expand...

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View attachment 58785

View attachment 58786
 
I would follow Joe's recommendation and advice.

mudhog79 said:
Curious as to what makes the M105 difficult to use?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

The short working time can lead to frustration. Plus the dusting of it. Ultimate Compound would be a good choice as it is derived from M105. Longer working time but less cut. Same abrasive load just less of it compared to M105.

Another option is Sonax polishes.
 
If you can look past the price for the initial purchase, Polish Angel is a great go. If you can apply a wax you can apply Polish Angel. Nothing wrong with M37 Paint Coating either, but don't use IPA or anything else. Use their paint cleansing polish. Product synergy is always at the top of the list especially when you look to coatings.
 
I am aligned with Willports approach and have always been and continue to be a "family" product follower. If you decide to go the M37 route you don't need to do an Iso Alc wipe prior to the coating. Use the Coating prep cleaner from M37 and you're good to go.
 
Paul A. said:
I am aligned with Willports approach and have always been and continue to be a "family" product follower. If you decide to go the M37 route you don't need to do an Iso Alc wipe prior to the coating. Use the Coating prep cleaner from M37 and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

I really like using a coating prep spray vs their paint cleaner. Since I alway polish before putting down the coating I don't have a need to mechanically clean the paint. McKee's N-914 has a mixture ratio listed for coating prep in these situations. Nick recommends going this route if you want to use a spray product. He's also mentioned the Blackfire Coating Prep will work along with, I believe, the Wolfgang coating prep spray. I can personally vouch for the Blackfire spray working with the McKee's 37 coating as a panel prep.
 
WillSports3 said:
If you can look past the price for the initial purchase, Polish Angel is a great go. If you can apply a wax you can apply Polish Angel. Nothing wrong with M37 Paint Coating either, but don't use IPA or anything else. Use their paint cleansing polish. Product synergy is always at the top of the list especially when you look to coatings.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, i am leaning towards sticking with the same line just in case.
 
Desertnate said:
I really like using a coating prep spray vs their paint cleaner. Since I alway polish before putting down the coating I don't have a need to mechanically clean the paint. McKee's N-914 has a mixture ratio listed for coating prep in these situations. Nick recommends going this route if you want to use a spray product. He's also mentioned the Blackfire Coating Prep will work along with, I believe, the Wolfgang coating prep spray. I can personally vouch for the Blackfire spray working with the McKee's 37 coating as a panel prep.
Click to expand...
I thought the purpose of the paint prep was to get any possible residue, hand prints etc. off the car before coating. I too would polish before coating but how does one ensure a clean paint if skipping this step?

Thanks for your advice.
 
So this is the order i think i am supposed to go with this all. Is this correct.

Wash
Iron-X
Clay
Compound (If Needed)
Polish
McKees Paint Prep
N-914 wipe (is this an or to above or an and)
McKees Coating
Anything for a final cover over the McKees coating?

Looking like a lot of sweating and many hours. :)
 
mudhog79 said:
I thought the purpose of the paint prep was to get any possible residue, hand prints etc. off the car before coating. I too would polish before coating but how does one ensure a clean paint if skipping this step?

Thanks for your advice.
Click to expand...

Using the Paint Prep is only one way of preparing the surface for the coating. McKee's N-914 is another product which will remove the items you mentioned and make sure the surface is perfectly clean. On the product page there is a specific dilution ratio for this purpose.

I like using the spray products because after polishing the car, the last thing I want to do is dig our more pads and spend even more time going over the car again with the polisher. Using a spray coating prep product is much faster and easier. I've understood the Paint Prep product was designed more for someone who wasn't polishing prior to applying the coating. Using the Paint Prep with a DA will allow you to deep clean the paint like a polish would, but without nearly the same correction.
 
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