Mckeeys 37 Ceramic Question

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rst08

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Coated my vehicle about a week ago, washed and dryed with beads maker.

Now it almost looks like over spray under certain lighting in my paint. By hand the paint feels smooth.

The "over spray" areas can only be removed by polish when I did a test. Car was corrected and prepped properly before application.

What happened
 
And yes. It's their new formula. Didn't have this issue with the old on two different vehicles.
 
Before washing, did you notice them? How did you apply the coating?

Also, why are you using beadmaker? Ideally no wax or sealant on top of ceramic coating.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 
Didn't notice them before washing. It's not real over spray since they are spread out on every panel of the car.

Coating was applied with the foam applicator. I did not spray the paint, just the applicator.

I use beads maker for added sickness and primarily a drying aid.

Used it the same way with the old formula. No problems.
 
Got it. Might not be the coating if you didn't spray on the panel. I'm assuming that you pour (ie like from a z cap) to a foam applicator instead of spraying to it right?



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Jon TDS said:
Got it. Might not be the coating if you didn't spray on the panel. I'm assuming that you pour (ie like from a z cap) to a foam applicator instead of spraying to it right?



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Correct. No spraying over the paint
 
The one time I coated with McKee's I also ended up with over spray in some areas. I hated using their sprayer, even spraying just on the applicator some of it will be airborne. I understand the newer ones include a dropper if you prefer that way and I do, then you know for sure coating is not going everywhere.

I would skip on bead maker on the coating. If you want to top it use hydro blue, better performance and easier to apply.
 
i just bought a new bottle 2 weeks ago directly from M37 and there was no eye dropper, but 2 sprayers
 
I've used the McKee's coating three times. Each time, I sprayed directly on the panel, and spread in a cross-hatch pattern, then circular. I also made sure to overlap my sections significantly to avoid overspray not being leveled. The one error I did make the first time was near windows, where on the first car I did (my own), there was over spray on the windows. I've since found ways to block overspray on glass, and have not had an issue.

But for the specific answer, I think the key is a wide overlap.

good luck to you!
 
The weird part here is I have zero marks on my windows. So it must be the beads maker. I'm going to try and wipe down the car with cleaner detailer with no gloss. I have some 3d 503. Maybe with a little pressure I can get it to buff off.
 
I've used Bead Maker on top of McKee's before as well, and did not notice anything like you describe. I stopped using it, as I don't feel the longevity is sufficient. I tried it because of the hype, and went back to McKee's Hydro Blue just because it did last longer.

The only other think I noticed in your post was the relatively short time you waited to top it at all. Could it be that under your conditions, you added something to it before it had a chance to cure completely? I'm not suggesting that is the case, just an idea to chew on.
 
What's the best product to use to remove the coating and re apply

Would essence work?
 
On the glass I used a glass pad and Optimum Hyper Polish, and it worked fine. On paint, I didn't try to polish any off, so I can't help you there. I did have one high spot the first time I applied, but I lived with it rather than mess around trying to fix it.
 
I had lots of overspray from using Mckees 37. I wouldn't be surprised if the particles drifted over and onto the paint even if you didn't spray the paint directly. I didn't notice when I was applying it but definitely noticed it the next day as it dried/cured.
 
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