Me and the Saleen S7

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Could you share with us your exact process and the products used on this car? I went through all of the posts and did'nt find this information. It's always helpful to others to let us know what machine, pads and products that you used to get the results posted. I see the car is Lystic Red, you don't see that color everyday! Didn't you just detail another car that is was Lystic Red? Is it the same car?
 
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AL417 said:
Could you share with us your exact process and the products used on this car? I went through all of the posts and did'nt find this information. It's always helpful to others to let us know what machine, pads and products that you used to get the results posted. I see the car is Lystic Red, you don't see that color everyday! Didn't you just detail another car that is was Lystic Red? Is it the same car?
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Well the process went something like this:

QDed with griots(doesnt leave any sort of wax behind)(i could not get the car wet so i had to QD, it lowers the value of the car.)
Clay with griots clay, and speed shine
polished with XMT1 via porter cable orange followed by white pads.
Waxed with LS(liq. souveran) via PC blue pad
QDed at the car show woth CM(crystal mist) and Griots speed shine.
Applied Black onyx tire dressing at show, man the tires looked great in the sun.
Wheels done with mothers chrome polish, its the only thing I had lying around.

If I could do it all over again I would do it diffrently though, now I have way more products.
 
Wow getting the car wet lowers the value? That's insane. What if you do a rinseless wash?
 
klumzypinoy said:
Wow getting the car wet lowers the value? That's insane. What if you do a rinseless wash?
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I thought it was crazy too, but if you really think about it, it makes sense. If he sells the car and tell the guy the car has never been wet, the guy know the car was never driven in bad weather and there is no rust. The car is also hand made so some parts of the car are not 100% water tight. A rinse less wash? maybe, hes worried about any water getting into the frame or into any crevases, places water doesnt belong. Anything involving lots of liquid is a no no. A rinseless wash is really pushing it. It makes things 100000000x harder when you cant wash a car, there were so many places that i could not clean. You almost have to take the car apart to clean it, so mant tight fits. It is probably the most challanging car to detail in the world due to its complicated shapes and vents. And not to mention one scratch and you have to repaint the whole car because the paint is hand belended every time, there is no touch up paint. If you really mess up on a car like this your life is over.
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
Well the process went something like this:

QDed with griots(doesnt leave any sort of wax behind)(i could not get the car wet so i had to QD, it lowers the value of the car.)
Clay with griots clay, and speed shine
polished with XMT1 via porter cable orange followed by white pads.
Waxed with LS(liq. souveran) via PC blue pad
QDed at the car show woth CM(crystal mist) and Griots speed shine.
Applied Black onyx tire dressing at show, man the tires looked great in the sun.
Wheels done with mothers chrome polish, its the only thing I had lying around.

If I could do it all over again I would do it diffrently though, now I have way more products.
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What would you do differently if you were to detail this car again?
 
AL417 said:
What would you do differently if you were to detail this car again?
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Glad you asked.

Process:

QD with griots, or any thing else that does not leave behind a film
Clay with griots clay and griots QD
50/50 alcohol(IPA) wipe down to remove any silicones or clay residue.
polish with Menzerna IP with OPT polish(~6:1) via Festool speed 5 w/ griots polishing pad
Follow with Menzerna nano with OPT polish(~10:1) via Festool speed 5 w/ Festool white pad(fine)
50/50 wipe down to remove polishing oils
Menzerna Glaze via Festool speed 4 w/Festool white pad(fine)
Wax w/ SigII (5 layers+) via Festool speed 3 w/ Festool white pad (fine)

I wish I could do it all over again:( Maybe someday.......
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
I thought it was crazy too, but if you really think about it, it makes sense. If he sells the car and tell the guy the car has never been wet, the guy know the car was never driven in bad weather and there is no rust. The car is also hand made so some parts of the car are not 100% water tight. A rinse less wash? maybe, hes worried about any water getting into the frame or into any crevases, places water doesnt belong. Anything involving lots of liquid is a no no. A rinseless wash is really pushing it. It makes things 100000000x harder when you cant wash a car, there were so many places that i could not clean. You almost have to take the car apart to clean it, so mant tight fits. It is probably the most challanging car to detail in the world due to its complicated shapes and vents. And not to mention one scratch and you have to repaint the whole car because the paint is hand belended every time, there is no touch up paint. If you really mess up on a car like this your life is over.
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Oh man that does sound hard to clean. The car just basically stays in a garage right? The value going down does make sense.
 
klumzypinoy said:
Oh man that does sound hard to clean. The car just basically stays in a garage right? The value going down does make sense.
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The car is not a total garage queen, it has 3,000+ miles on it
 
what happens if it rains? or gets in a sprinkler 3k miles is a decent amount...?
 
ltoman said:
what happens if it rains? or gets in a sprinkler 3k miles is a decent amount...?
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It has never been out in the rain. 3k, is very decent, for a super car garage queen. Most super car garage queens have like 1.5k.
 
klumzypinoy said:
I'd be fearful of taking that baby out :p
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Bringing a change of underwear along for the ride may not be a bad idea
gears.gif


o and btw... if it were mine, id wash it every day, with WATER!
bootyshake.gif
 
ltoman said:
what happens if it rains? or gets in a sprinkler
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Then that's a catastrophe and owner must commit ritual suicide because their life is officially over.
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
Glad you asked.

Process:

QD with griots, or any thing else that does not leave behind a film
Clay with griots clay and griots QD
50/50 alcohol(IPA) wipe down to remove any silicones or clay residue.
polish with Menzerna IP with OPT polish(~6:1) via Festool speed 5 w/ griots polishing pad
Follow with Menzerna nano with OPT polish(~10:1) via Festool speed 5 w/ Festool white pad(fine)
50/50 wipe down to remove polishing oils
Menzerna Glaze via Festool speed 4 w/Festool white pad(fine)
Wax w/ SigII (5 layers+) via Festool speed 3 w/ Festool white pad (fine)

I wish I could do it all over again:( Maybe someday.......
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From the thread Problem Buffer Trails with XMT#1 and PC
thejoyofdriving posted:
"I used the white CCS pads, oh and also i used edge pads to, i for got to mention that, i used the orange 2000., I think that i might have followed up with a ultra fine polishing pad after the orange pad. It cant be left over polish because the wax would not adhere and I QDed the car 3 times after the detail was complete. I am at loss on this one:confused: What are the chances of receiving a defective polish, 100,000:1, i dont understand how this happened."

This is the same Saleen right? Why did you use XMT1 and the PC?? Why didn't you do what you listed above?
I'm confused, is anybody else confused by this?
 
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AL417 said:
From the thread Problem Buffer Trails with XMT#1 and PC
thejoyofdriving posted:
"I used the white CCS pads, oh and also i used edge pads to, i for got to mention that, i used the orange 2000., I think that i might have followed up with a ultra fine polishing pad after the orange pad. It cant be left over polish because the wax would not adhere and I QDed the car 3 times after the detail was complete. I am at loss on this one:confused: What are the chances of receiving a defective polish, 100,000:1, i dont understand how this happened."

This is the same Saleen right? Why did you use XMT1 and the PC?? Why didn't you do what you listed above?
I'm confused, is anybody else confused by this?
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Because at that time I did not have the Festool or menzerna polishes. This is what I would do now, I have a lot more products now.
 
Thats not true about the cars not being able to touch water, Ive owned a couple of "hand built" cars and they were all ok going through the wash. Even though they werent as high end as the S7.
 
FMINUS said:
Thats not true about the cars not being able to touch water, Ive owned a couple of "hand built" cars and they were all ok going through the wash. Even though they werent as high end as the S7.
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Its hard to understand, you have to see the car in person. Most hand built cars are fine with water, but remember this is a Saleen S7:D, it has many air vents and channels, around like 20 i+ think. There are channels that flow the air through the body of the car to lower air resistance. All of those ducts make it a crazy hard car to build, plus they are tring to save as much weight as possible, they skip on a lot of parts and materials that other hand built cars have. Since there are so many complicated ducts, not every thing is perfectly water tight.

On a side note, for a 50K paint job it has a lot of defects:eek:. If you walk around the car you can see a bubbles in the paint:eek:, also there are some places on the car that they didnt paint well, for example the insides of the vents. I was surprised when I saw so many flaws:eek: You can also see the weave of the carbon fiber through the clear coat.
 
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klumzypinoy said:
That's a shame for a 50k paint job, I'd be pissed!!
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I dont know why but carbon fiber is very very hard to paint, it takes them like 3 months to repaint the car.
 
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