Megs M101 vs. M105
- Thread starter runrun411
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2old2change
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- Jan 3, 2007
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Megs M101 has a lot more cut then M105 and a longer working time. M100 is closer to M105 with the edge IMO still going to M100 for cut and working time.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
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M101 = very good no matter how you use it, just look at the pictures here as we used every tool and pad combo available and I even used it by hand...
M101 Foam Cut Compound - 1999 Trans Am Extreme Makeover at Autogeek
Here's Jay working M101 using a Meguiar's 6" Microfiber Cutting Disc on a 3M Orbital Air Sander...
M100 = If you use wool pads on rotary buffers then M100 cuts fast ans finishes out nice.
1965 Mustang GT Fastback - Wetsanding - Live Broadcast
Definitely add these two products to your arsenal of compounds.
:dblthumb2:
M101 Foam Cut Compound - 1999 Trans Am Extreme Makeover at Autogeek
Here's Jay working M101 using a Meguiar's 6" Microfiber Cutting Disc on a 3M Orbital Air Sander...
M100 = If you use wool pads on rotary buffers then M100 cuts fast ans finishes out nice.
1965 Mustang GT Fastback - Wetsanding - Live Broadcast
Definitely add these two products to your arsenal of compounds.
:dblthumb2:
cgreen1120
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- Oct 4, 2012
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What a thought and research provoking question. I did both. The cost of each product makes you think twice before ordering just to do testing and testing can go on forever due to infinite variables involved. Let’s get some starting parameters with just a few facts. I guess I would ask, what are you trying to accomplish, machine to be used, pad, and what clear coat system are you working with? I put together a little data and here is what it looks like.
The top 2 ingredients will probably help me the most in my decision making. For example, if I am working on a Subaru that needs a full correction and I plan to use a DA only, what product would work best on a paint system that research has shown to be very soft? After doing a little cross referencing, I would go with the M100 to start. I chose this due to the lower ALUMINUM OXIDE and higher lubricant content. If it were a newer Mercedes with the BASF iGloss clear coat, I would jump all over the M101. What I’m trying to say is that you have to pick the right tool for the job and account for as many variables as you can. Machine, pad and paint system will dictate a lot so be careful on your selection. Can you imagine the amount of cut you would get with a rotary buffer with a heavy cut wool pad using M101? If the abrasive content in the particular batch you have is on the high side, LOOK OUT.
I hope this helps a few,
Craig
The top 2 ingredients will probably help me the most in my decision making. For example, if I am working on a Subaru that needs a full correction and I plan to use a DA only, what product would work best on a paint system that research has shown to be very soft? After doing a little cross referencing, I would go with the M100 to start. I chose this due to the lower ALUMINUM OXIDE and higher lubricant content. If it were a newer Mercedes with the BASF iGloss clear coat, I would jump all over the M101. What I’m trying to say is that you have to pick the right tool for the job and account for as many variables as you can. Machine, pad and paint system will dictate a lot so be careful on your selection. Can you imagine the amount of cut you would get with a rotary buffer with a heavy cut wool pad using M101? If the abrasive content in the particular batch you have is on the high side, LOOK OUT.
I hope this helps a few,
Craig
cgreen1120
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- Oct 4, 2012
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Can't seem to get these big enough to see.
ihaveacamaro
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- Jun 16, 2012
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take the screenshot, go to paint, press control V and then save as jpeg. Should be big enough to see that way
cgreen1120
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- Oct 4, 2012
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Just tried it and it just wont work. CRAP
CM8 6MT
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- Nov 20, 2012
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Lmaoooooo!!! I was thinking the same thing ! "Woahhhhhh, im polishing like a PRO YO!"
cgreen1120
New member
- Oct 4, 2012
- 117
- 0
What a thought and research provoking question. I did both. The cost of each product makes you think twice before ordering just to do testing and testing can go on forever due to infinite variables involved. Let’s get some starting parameters with just a few facts. I guess I would ask, what are you trying to accomplish, machine to be used, pad, and what clear coat system are you working with? I put together a little data and here is what it looks like.
The top 2 ingredients will probably help me the most in my decision making. For example, if I am working on a Subaru that needs a full correction and I plan to use a DA only, what product would work best on a paint system that research has shown to be very soft? After doing a little cross referencing, I would go with the M100 to start. I chose this due to the lower ALUMINUM OXIDE and higher lubricant content. If it were a newer Mercedes with the BASF iGloss clear coat, I would jump all over the M101. What I’m trying to say is that you have to pick the right tool for the job and account for as many variables as you can. Machine, pad and paint system will dictate a lot so be careful on your selection. Can you imagine the amount of cut you would get with a rotary buffer with a heavy cut wool pad using M101? If the abrasive content in the particular batch you have is on the high side, LOOK OUT.
I hope this helps a few,
Craig
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Meg_Data1.JPG
Maybe the photo link will help.
ihaveacamaro
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- Jun 16, 2012
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Here you go, now it can be expanded :xyxthumbs:
cgreen1120
New member
- Oct 4, 2012
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:urtheman: Thank You for the help.