Meguiar's M105 and M205...

TH3M B0N3Z

TH3M B0N3Z

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I've never used M105 and M205 before and I don't have a use for them when it comes to my car, but I'm considering investing in this combo for future detailing jobs. Like for instance, I worked on my girlfriend's '99 Taurus today and just polished the hood with Meg's UC and UP, and the hood looks a little glossier, but it's not like a mirror. I understand the paint is 14 years old, but would the M105 and M205 brighten the paint up more? Her car can somewhat be my experiment because she's not too much into its looks... she's even told me I could try wet sanding on it, lol. I don't know about that, though.

Anyway, can the M105, M205 combo tackle some bad paint?
 
m105 has extremely heavy cut. M205 is lighter. If you want to brighten paint, stick to uc. If there is heavy defects use m105. She should be into its looks as it might have clear coat failure if she has never waxed it. Its probable that there is less of a clear and she might need a new one.
 
Bill1234 said:
m105 has extremely heavy cut. M205 is lighter. If you want to brighten paint, stick to uc. If there is heavy defects use m105. She should be into its looks as it might have clear coat failure if she has never waxed it. Its probable that there is less of a clear and she might need a new one.
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I agree with Bill. Also it shouldnt just look a little "glossier". UC has enough cut to cut through heavy oxidation. Your CC is probably failing, or in the process.
 
CM8 6MT said:
I agree with Bill. Also it shouldnt just look a little "glossier". UC has enough cut to cut through heavy oxidation. Your CC is probably failing, or in the process.
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That's good to know. I recently used the UC on my dad's hood on his '06 Tacoma, but he's actually got some clear coat that's bubbling up. It's a shame because he's always taken care of his vehicles, this one possibly being the least because he's not so young and energetic anymore. He wants me to work on the rest of his truck, but the hood's CC is failing and the roof is even worse. Funny how my GF's 14 year old car with the original paint almost looks better. No bubbling and peeling CC.

I'm kinda surprised to find out UC has enough cut to take on bad paint. It worked wonders on my car, but I just had light wash and dry scratches, some bird poop etching, and pretty much everything came out aside from some strong water marks on my roof. Sometimes I want that part of my car repainted.
 
Speaking of the paint on my roof... it's the original paint... so it's 6 years old. It has a lot of water spots and some deep cat scratches that I kinda nicked when I buffed my car. Would M105 do a good job and really polishing that roof? It looks good now, but the water spots really seem to hold back it's true shine.
 
TH3M B0N3Z said:
Speaking of the paint on my roof... it's the original paint... so it's 6 years old. It has a lot of water spots and some deep cat scratches that I kinda nicked when I buffed my car. Would M105 do a good job and really polishing that roof? It looks good now, but the water spots really seem to hold back it's true shine.
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Was the vehicle parked in an apartment complex? Sounds like you have Type 2 water spots. You need to clay the paint first in order to aid in the removal process when you hit it with UC. Below is a great article by Mike Phillips on the types of water spots, and the process of removing them.

www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-to...ypes-water-spots-type-i-type-ii-type-iii.html
 
TH3M B0N3Z said:
Speaking of the paint on my roof... it's the original paint... so it's 6 years old. It has a lot of water spots and some deep cat scratches that I kinda nicked when I buffed my car. Would M105 do a good job and really polishing that roof? It looks good now, but the water spots really seem to hold back it's true shine.
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i would use iron x or something similar to get the water spots edged in your paint out. 105 may get most of them out but i dont think 100% out, depending on the condition of your paint.

i would invest in some 105 and 205 they sell 16 oz bottles and even 8 oz so that way you dont waste your money on a 32 oz if you end up not liking it
 
psynx said:
i would use iron x or something similar to get the water spots edged in your paint out. 105 may get most of them out but i dont think 100% out, depending on the condition of your paint.

i would invest in some 105 and 205 they sell 16 oz bottles and even 8 oz so that way you dont waste your money on a 32 oz if you end up not liking it
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Thanks for the suggestions. How does Iron X work?

About the M105, will it hurt to use it on 6 year old paint? It looks good aside from the water marks, you really have to see them in the garage with the overhead lights. It's something I can live with, honestly, but if I can remove them safely with the M105, I'm totally up for it.

But do elaborate on the Iron X, sir.
 
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8adxMlQRlk]TAR X - IRONX VS. CLAY.wmv - YouTube[/video]
after wash if the paint is really contaminated some detailers use iron x on the paint before claying
 
So Iron X will take out water spots? Does it damage the clear coat or warrant any polishing?
 
it doesnt take out water spots markings, just the iron, zinc, minerals etc to make claying and compounding allot easier
 
psynx said:
it doesnt take out water spots markings, just the iron, zinc, minerals etc to make claying and compounding allot easier
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Oh, I see. But it's completely safe on the paint?
 
TH3M B0N3Z said:
.I'm kinda surprised to find out UC has enough cut to take on bad paint. It worked wonders on my car, but I just had light wash and dry scratches, some bird poop etching, and pretty much everything came out aside from some strong water marks on my roof. Sometimes I want that part of my car repainted.
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You can safely think of Ult Compound and Ult Polish as kissin' cousins to the 105/205 twins. Both products (UC and UP) are derived from 105 and 205. Best thing about UC is that it is much more 'friendly' to use. Less dusting, doesn't dry out as quickly.

Just my thoughts...

Bill
 
I'm kinda surprised to find out UC has enough cut to take on bad paint. It worked wonders on my car, but I just had light wash and dry scratches, some bird poop etching, and pretty much everything came out aside from some strong water marks on my roof. Sometimes I want that part of my car repainted.[/QUOTE]

The beauty of UC is that your application technique will give you different results. It will be as aggressive as you want or as light as you want. It all depends on your pad and pressure setup. It is an awesome product especially for under ten bucks.
 
JAF06SE said:
I'm kinda surprised to find out UC has enough cut to take on bad paint. It worked wonders on my car, but I just had light wash and dry scratches, some bird poop etching, and pretty much everything came out aside from some strong water marks on my roof. Sometimes I want that part of my car repainted.
Click to expand...

The beauty of UC is that your application technique will give you different results. It will be as aggressive as you want or as light as you want. It all depends on your pad and pressure setup. It is an awesome product especially for under ten bucks.[/QUOTE]

Agree
 
Another way to use UC is prime your pad before working with it then use 105, 3 drops at a time. It'll add a decent amount of working time to the 105. Still have to keep up with pad speed and feel for it dragging though. Problem with 105 is by the time you feel it getting weird, it's sometimes too late. (Then you have to put more on just to get it off.) FWIW, more 105 isn't the preferred choice but sometimes it's the workable solution.

If I only worked on the same car every time I'd know it without looking. It's changing paints that keeps ya' on your toes. :rolleyes:
 
Its probable that there is less of a clear and she might need a new one.
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TH3M B0N3Z said:
I've never used M105 and M205 before and I don't have a use for them when it comes to my car, but I'm considering investing in this combo for future detailing jobs. Like for instance, I worked on my girlfriend's '99 Taurus today and just polished the hood with Meg's UC and UP, and the hood looks a little glossier, but it's not like a mirror. I understand the paint is 14 years old, but would the M105 and M205 brighten the paint up more? Her car can somewhat be my experiment because she's not too much into its looks... she's even told me I could try wet sanding on it, lol. I don't know about that, though.

Anyway, can the M105, M205 combo tackle some bad paint?
Click to expand...

I Personally Think that M101 is better then M105, When I checked about that on the internet I found that 101 is actually better, but Afterwords i contact some sellers and found out for sure that 101 works better then 105, Just add a few bucks to get the newest product :dblthumb2:.
 
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