Meguiars M205 which pad to use

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PeteT19640

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Hi Im at the stage where I'm going to give my girlfriends Maxima a light polish prior to a ceramic coating, (2nd coat), first coat applied about 3 months ago car hasn't been out much at all since original coating.
It will be done by hand, options I had in mind.
Meguiars foam yellow pad
Meguiars Even Coat microfiber pad
Microfiber pad
Cotton pad

Thanks in advance
 
Meguiars Yellow Foam Pad or my favorite to pair with M205 Lake Country Orange HDO Foam Polishing Pad.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Wait...why do you want to polish in order to put a "2nd coat" of coating on, after only 3 months?
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That caught my attention too. If it's a real coating, you should have to touch it for a really long time. If the desire is to layer on another coating, any polishing will wipe out what is already on there.

I'm not familiar with the pads listed, i.e. the cotton pad, but I'd start with the foam if it's a medium cut. The MF pads are probably way to aggressive, and even if the paint is in bad shape you'd need a different polish than 205 to pair with a MF pad and then work up to the foam and 205 to finish out the paint.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Wait...why do you want to polish in order to put a "2nd coat" of coating on, after only 3 months?
Click to expand...
Yep pretty much my first go at a real coating didn't do a great job. Will 205 take the coating back even by hand?
 
Desertnate said:
That caught my attention too. If it's a real coating, you should have to touch it for a really long time. If the desire is to layer on another coating, any polishing will wipe out what is already on there.

I'm not familiar with the pads listed, i.e. the cotton pad, but I'd start with the foam if it's a medium cut. The MF pads are probably way to aggressive, and even if the paint is in bad shape you'd need a different polish than 205 to pair with a MF pad and then work up to the foam and 205 to finish out the paint.
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Thanks I'm going to try the foam pad to give a polish by hand then use Eraser to clean up.
 
Ok, after reading that a 2nd time it does now confirm that you’re really working this whole thing by hand.

There’s so many things that could be said, plus we have almost no real details or even an idea of what the vehicle looks like. Polishing an entire vehicle by hand is not advisable, the only thing you’ll gain is a thorough workout, but the results will be something you’ll chuckle about in the future, trust me, I’ve done it once many years ago. Just buy a polisher and skip kindergarten. Lol.

Or just iron remover, wash, claybar, dry, apply coating. Skip the polish step if you don’t have a machine to polish. If the vehicle is black then you’ll only have yourself to blame and you wouldn’t have the makings of a “good boyfriend” lol.

Btw, a “cotton pad” doesn’t sound like a very good idea using on paint unless you’re coming from good experience and proven results.
 
Eldorado2k said:
Ok, after reading that a 2nd time it does now confirm that you’re really working this whole thing by hand.

There’s so many things that could be said, plus we have almost no real details or even an idea of what the vehicle looks like. Polishing an entire vehicle by hand is not advisable, the only thing you’ll gain is a thorough workout, but the results will be something you’ll chuckle about in the future, trust me, I’ve done it once many years ago. Just buy a polisher and skip kindergarten. Lol.

Or just iron remover, wash, claybar, dry, apply coating. Skip the polish step if you don’t have a machine to polish. If the vehicle is black then you’ll only have yourself to blame and you wouldn’t have the makings of a “good boyfriend” lol.

Btw, a “cotton pad” doesn’t sound like a very good idea using on paint unless you’re coming from good experience and proven results.
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Oh man, didn't realize it was all by hand either. Back in the 70's a college buddy of mine picked up an extremely nice '66 Continental (suicide doors FTW!) that had a dulled finish (was some kind of burgundy-ish color) but was otherwise pretty mint. With no tools other than our arms and backs I showed him how we could use polishing compound to restore the finish (and Simichrome for ALL THAT CHROME) and it came out great. But that was all by hand, on a massive car, outside in a central Alabama summer. Oh to be young, strong and stupid again! With the low cost and easy availability of decent buffers today there's no way I'd do that again. Either a Griot's G9 or one of those HF forced rotation jobs is well worth the investment, IMO.

Fun fact on the car - it had pronounced sheet metal crease (paint was intact, though) right behind the rear driver's side door. The interior door handles on these cars were conveniently placed just forward of the arm rest. Story was that granny in the back seat couldn't hear the convo in the front so attempted to lean forward and used the armrest for leverage - but grabbled the handle and opened the door - on the highway. The door caught the wind (or the wind caught the door) and it immediately flipped all the way back parallel with the car body. We weren't skilled or ambitious enough to want to attempt anything to address that and since the paint was still fine there just figured it made for an interesting story. That '66 was a hell of a looker once we were done and was a lot of fun for my remainder of college (at least what I can remember).
 
Karl_in_Chicago said:
Oh man, didn't realize it was all by hand either. Back in the 70's a college buddy of mine picked up an extremely nice '66 Continental (suicide doors FTW!) that had a dulled finish (was some kind of burgundy-ish color) but was otherwise pretty mint. With no tools other than our arms and backs I showed him how we could use polishing compound to restore the finish (and Simichrome for ALL THAT CHROME) and it came out great. But that was all by hand, on a massive car, outside in a central Alabama summer. Oh to be young, strong and stupid again! With the low cost and easy availability of decent buffers today there's no way I'd do that again. Either a Griot's G9 or one of those HF forced rotation jobs is well worth the investment, IMO.

Fun fact on the car - it had pronounced sheet metal crease (paint was intact, though) right behind the rear driver's side door. The interior door handles on these cars were conveniently placed just forward of the arm rest. Story was that granny in the back seat couldn't hear the convo in the front so attempted to lean forward and used the armrest for leverage - but grabbled the handle and opened the door - on the highway. The door caught the wind (or the wind caught the door) and it immediately flipped all the way back parallel with the car body. We weren't skilled or ambitious enough to want to attempt anything to address that and since the paint was still fine there just figured it made for an interesting story. That '66 was a hell of a looker once we were done and was a lot of fun for my remainder of college (at least what I can remember).
Click to expand...

That’s a great story.
Totally agree when it comes to being young, strong & stupid. Lol. I once spent 3 days in my garage doing Meguiars 3 step [remember those old burgundy bottles they used to have with the paint cleaner, polish & carnauba or something]?

3 straight days going at it by hand on a pearl white Cadillac with no clue how to look for swirls if my life depended on it. Lol.

It looked good to me when I was all done, but what the heck did I know back then since I didn’t even know what to look for.
 
I missed the whole, by-hand part too. Major oversight on my part. Like the others, I wouldn't try it by hand.
 
You guys are killing me with the '66 Continental and Meg's 3-step stories, these are a little too close to home for me. Not to mention Simichrome, I think I still may have a tin of that somewhere.
 
PeteT19640 said:
Yep pretty much my first go at a real coating didn't do a great job. Will 205 take the coating back even by hand?
Click to expand...

Depends on coating. I removed week old CQUK3 by hand.

If it’s a consumer grade coating I feel you’ll be removing old and applying new.

If you want to add actual 2nd coat I would do a 3ph wash (google it). Then Tar remover and iron remover to remove as much contaminants as possible w/o polishing and then coat.


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