Meguiar's No.7 Glaze for Single Stage - Bondo?

[Thomkirby]

Meguiar's No.7 Glaze for Single Stage - Bondo?


Mike & forum members,

I am helping my neighbor with his old Chevrolet pickup. He keeps it garaged and hand washed so the relatively clean. He is trying to keep the original exterior paint original and I offered to help or do the No.7 glaze to bring the paint back with a bit of shine. Truck is shown in car events as being in the 'Patina' class.

That said, my test is the rear tailgate and he is very impressed and is ready to do the entire truck now.

Question: How will the No.7 react with the paint if the body repairs in the past were done with Bondo? Will this react with the Bondo (given the trade secret oils contained in No.7)?

Will post a few pictures with my Tapatalk app from the phone.

Starting with this

After first coat set for 24-hours

More to come

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

No problems...

Just massage everything down with the #7 - even bare metal.

Slather it on, massage it really well. Let it soak over night, massage it off.

If one application looks good repeat until you feel like doing a Happy Dance.

Be sure to get the high overhead hood shot. (before)

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Like this,

Pro Tip: Remember to take GREAT BEFORE SHOTS before working on the car!


If you want to showcase your talent, skills, knowledge and abilities when it comes to the art of polishing paint and the craft of detailing cars, then BEFORE you start working on the car take a few moments to take REALLY GREAT BEFORE PICTURES!


I cannot stress this enough.


Why?

Because once you start working on the car it's too late to document the ugly. That's about as plain as I can make it. And if you don't document how bad the condition of the car or the paint was before you started then all you have left to capture is the after shots. While after shots are good... no one will ever know how bad the condition was before you worked your magic because you don't have the pictures to back it up. All you can do is "talk". You can say how bad the paint or the car was before you started but to be honest... those are just words.


A picture is worth a thousand words


So if you want to show the world what you can do - set the buffer down, get out your camera and take great before shots.


Before

Here's how I was able to get the high overhead hood shot - I used a ladder.

:buffing:

 

[Thomkirby]

No problems...

Just massage everything down with the #7 - even bare metal.

Slather it on, massage it really well. Let it soak over night, massage it off.

If one application looks good repeat until you feel like doing a Happy Dance.

Be sure to get the high overhead hood shot. (before)

Yes, the test was the tail gate and so far the owner is pleased, even had him helping this afternoon. Applied a coat today and with Father's Day will come back and do the second coat in a couple of days.

Truck is a 1968 and all original paint for the most part. Owner removed the hood emblem and we found the original paint in very good condition. That will be the test to compare how much life we can bring into worn 50+ years of life of a work truck.

Paint is acting like a straw, so will need at least two more bottles to get it shimmering, our test stop was moving the right direction after two heavy coats. Doing one coat, sit for 24-hours, wipe and reapply! A very satisfying experience.

Thanks for the coaching and tips.

Kirby T

 

[57Rambler]

I would not worry about No.7 and Bondo, the "oils" are not going to break down the chemical bonds of Bondo molecules.

Generally, the only way to remove Bondo, other than mechanical means, is to soften it with heat and then scrape.

 

[Sizzle Chest]

Keep us posted on this sweet truck!

 

[Thomkirby]

Results for unstable paint

We finished up today with rubbing down our second coat of No. 7 Glaze.

I did try a light polish on the tailgate with a white polishing pad. Polish was PINNACLE Advance Finishing Polish with a LC White foam pad. Interesting that pad turned black and indicated the paint likely had aluminum flakes for the old style of metallic colors. I need to finish that job once can get shade again, metal was hot in the afternoon sun.

We used COLLINITE No. 915 paste wax as topper as it gave a nice shine compared to a liquid wax. The garage was a bit too warm as the wax cured quickly and was even turning soft in the can. Wax was hand applied with a very thin coating.

Owner was pleased as it was keeping the patina yet gave a renewed shimmer to that old paint. Thanks to Mike Phillips for introducing me to MEGUIAR’S No. 7 for old thirsty paint.

Note: No. 7 does a great job on cleaning up old chrome and aluminum trim.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Me Time]

At first I thought you were going to be wasting you time, but it did give it a nice little shine. And if he is wanting to keep the Patina look, you gave him a nice shine and some protection.....

Good work.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Truck is a 1968 and all original paint for the most part.

We finished up today with rubbing down our second coat of No. 7 Glaze.

Owner was pleased as it was keeping the patina yet gave a renewed shimmer to that old paint.

Nice work Kirby!

And the paint on this 1968 Chevy Truck will easily last another 53 YEARS!


:cheers:

 

[Thomkirby]

Finished tailgate polish with Blackfire One Step and then waxed.

Pulled it out of garage for final photos

Beauty photos

And it is ready to go to another car meet!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Thomkirby]

For those that polish out old single stage that is a metallic color like this truck.

White polishing pad turns black?

Cleaned it out by hand using my Dawn solution and pad cleaner

Per Mike’s experience this black comes from the aluminum flakes within the paint. A learning experience I wanted to share with forum members.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

:bump:

Shared here,

Thin single stage paint questions - 1987 Volvo 240