Meguiars product question

BlueGenCoupe

BlueGenCoupe

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Just to let everyone know, I polish a few times a year, and the products im looking for are a scratch/swirl remover, polish and possibly a sealant. so today
I went to my local NAPA and purchased some meguiars polishes. I purchased the Professional show car glaze 7, Speed glaze 80, swirl remover 9, heavey cut cleaner 4 and fine cut cleaner2.

I was looking in the meguiars section and They dont have the heavy cut cleaner. the one I purchased, is it a discontinued product?

Also with the products I bought are these items good for what I want to do? Should I get something else?

1 last question, is the speed glaze and show car glaze the same thing?Feed back pleaseFeed back please

Thanks in advance. looking forward to listening to your suggestions
 
The speed glaze has abrasives in it. The show care number 7 does not. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
 
BlueGenCoupe said:
Just to let everyone know, I polish a few times a year, and the products im looking for are a scratch/swirl remover, polish and possibly a sealant. so today
I went to my local NAPA and purchased some meguiars polishes. I purchased the Professional show car glaze 7, Speed glaze 80, swirl remover 9, heavey cut cleaner 4 and fine cut cleaner2.

I was looking in the meguiars section and They dont have the heavy cut cleaner. the one I purchased, is it a discontinued product?

Also with the products I bought are these items good for what I want to do? Should I get something else?

1 last question, is the speed glaze and show car glaze the same thing?Feed back pleaseFeed back please

Thanks in advance. looking forward to listening to your suggestions
Click to expand...

1) M04 Heavy Cut Cleaner and M02 Fine Cut Cleaner are both very old-school "rocks in a bottle" abrasive compounds which are to be used via rotary only (and they won't finish down as well as some of the more modern abrasive technologies without a lot of skill and finesse).

2) M80 Speed Glaze is a Diminishing Abrasive (DAT) polish which is a medium grade polish; it also contains a fresh paint safe sealant.

3) M09 Swirl Remover is a very very mild Diminishing Abrasive polish, generally it is most effective when only shallow marring is present on the surface to be corrected.

4) M07 Show Car Glaze is a "pure polish" which contains oils to enrich paint surfaces (this is mostly relevant to single stage finishes), but no abrasives whatsoever. The application media is the only source of cut when using M07. It is NOT the same as M80 Speed Glaze.

As for whether or not these products will be useful for your situation, it depends on what you're working on, what condition it's in, what polisher(s) you have, and so on.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
1) M04 Heavy Cut Cleaner and M02 Fine Cut Cleaner are both very old-school "rocks in a bottle" abrasive compounds which are to be used via rotary only (and they won't finish down as well as some of the more modern abrasive technologies without a lot of skill and finesse).

2) M80 Speed Glaze is a Diminishing Abrasive (DAT) polish which is a medium grade polish; it also contains a fresh paint safe sealant.

3) M09 Swirl Remover is a very very mild Diminishing Abrasive polish, generally it is most effective when only shallow marring is present on the surface to be corrected.

4) M07 Show Car Glaze is a "pure polish" which contains oils to enrich paint surfaces (this is mostly relevant to single stage finishes), but no abrasives whatsoever. The application media is the only source of cut when using M07. It is NOT the same as M80 Speed Glaze.

As for whether or not these products will be useful for your situation, it depends on what you're working on, what condition it's in, what polisher(s) you have, and so on.
Click to expand...

I'm working on a 2010 Hyundai genesis with light swirls and scratches. Can you suggest a meguiars or 3m products to use?
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
1) M04 Heavy Cut Cleaner and M02 Fine Cut Cleaner are both very old-school "rocks in a bottle" abrasive compounds which are to be used via rotary only (and they won't finish down as well as some of the more modern abrasive technologies without a lot of skill and finesse).
Click to expand...

Hey Shiny, I have a really old bottle of M02 which is labeled for hand application (great stuff back then for paint transfers, plenty of solvent). Then they changed it to rotary only, but I thought it then got changed back a few years ago to a hand/DA product? I remember Mike Phillips talking about this on MOL.
 
BlueGenCoupe said:
So all the other polishes I can bring back?
Click to expand...

I guess it depends on your budget. I have like 4 different products for each category but I like having options and love trying new products.

105/205 can tackle almost any project, they are my go-to compound and polish. Personally I've never NEEDED to use a fine finishing polish after 205. It has always finished down very well for me. But you can add a finer polish like Menzerna P085RD for that final touch.

And BTW, if you put a glaze under a sealant it will destroy the durability.
 
+1 on the M105/M205, especially for those of us in the lower skill brackets because they are pretty easy to use. But some things that may be even better for you to use by hand, along with being cheaper and even easier to find OTC, would be Ultimate Compound and/or Swirl-X....
 
shoeless89 said:
I guess it depends on your budget. I have like 4 different products for each category but I like having options and love trying new products.

105/205 can tackle almost any project, they are my go-to compound and polish. Personally I've never NEEDED to use a fine finishing polish after 205. It has always finished down very well for me. But you can add a finer polish like Menzerna P085RD for that final touch.

And BTW, if you put a glaze under a sealant it will destroy the durability.
Click to expand...

Awesome info thanks. Now to my next question....I bought these wool pads The Edge 2000 PLUS 8 Inch Wool Buffing Pads and these foam pads Lake Country 7.5 Inch CCS Pads- 6 PACK. now when applying 105 and using the wool pads, I can start off with the Black Heavy cutting pad, or should I start with the least aggressive(medium or Light)? I've never used wool so I dont know what there cutting abilities are like. Then for 205 I would use the blue finishing? The white was is discontinued.

With the foam pad using M105 which pad should I use(I dont think I got the Yellow, not sure which ones I chose)? and for 205?

Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time using these products. The other products I use are so simple to use, there dummie proof.
 
BlueGenCoupe said:
Awesome info thanks. Now to my next question....I bought these wool pads The Edge 2000 PLUS 8 Inch Wool Buffing Pads and these foam pads Lake Country 7.5 Inch CCS Pads- 6 PACK. now when applying 105 and using the wool pads, I can start off with the Black Heavy cutting pad, or should I start with the least aggressive(medium or Light)? I've never used wool so I dont know what there cutting abilities are like. Then for 205 I would use the blue finishing? The white was is discontinued.

With the foam pad using M105 which pad should I use(I dont think I got the Yellow, not sure which ones I chose)? and for 205?

Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time using these products. The other products I use are so simple to use, there dummie proof.
Click to expand...

What kind of polisher ( machine) are you using?
 
another avenue and the one that has worked so well for me is mex sip on a yellow lc pad followed by ultima sealant. fabulous results with not much effort.

hope this helps.

budinsc
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Hey Shiny, I have a really old bottle of M02 which is labeled for hand application (great stuff back then for paint transfers, plenty of solvent). Then they changed it to rotary only, but I thought it then got changed back a few years ago to a hand/DA product? I remember Mike Phillips talking about this on MOL.
Click to expand...

Hmm... that could be, I'm not sure. All I can say for certain is that the bottle of M02 sitting on my shelf says rotary only. :dunno:
 
BlueGenCoupe said:
Awesome info thanks. Now to my next question....I bought these wool pads The Edge 2000 PLUS 8 Inch Wool Buffing Pads and these foam pads Lake Country 7.5 Inch CCS Pads- 6 PACK. now when applying 105 and using the wool pads, I can start off with the Black Heavy cutting pad, or should I start with the least aggressive(medium or Light)? I've never used wool so I dont know what there cutting abilities are like. Then for 205 I would use the blue finishing? The white was is discontinued.

With the foam pad using M105 which pad should I use(I dont think I got the Yellow, not sure which ones I chose)? and for 205?

Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time using these products. The other products I use are so simple to use, there dummie proof.
Click to expand...
Feed back pleaseFeed back pleaseFeed back pleaseFeed back pleaseFeed back pleaseFeed back pleaseFeed back please
 
I find that when stores like NAPA or Autozone have Meguiars professional line products out, they are usually old stock of older products. I wouldn't use any of those. I would return them and start with the 3 products used most on this forum:
M105
M205
Menz P085RD
Generally before deciding on what to use first, you survey the finish to see what types and how severe the defects are. Posting some pictures would be helpful. Pick a test panel and start with the least aggressive pad/product combination that you think would be appropriate for the defects you want to correct. For example M105 on a light cutting pad. Check your results and go from there.
Good luck.
 
BlueGenCoupe said:
Mkaita rotary.
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Have you ever used a rotary? You mention you've never used wool...

I've used neither but I do know that wool on a rotary is about as aggressive a combination as you can get. If you don't have any practice with them, then you'd best not start on your 2010 hyundai

Get a large panel from a junkyard and practice. I'd even hold it on one spot on the junk panel so you can see how fast you can burn through the paint...
 
embolism said:
Have you ever used a rotary? You mention you've never used wool...

I've used neither but I do know that wool on a rotary is about as aggressive a combination as you can get. If you don't have any practice with them, then you'd best not start on your 2010 hyundai

Get a large panel from a junkyard and practice. I'd even hold it on one spot on the junk panel so you can see how fast you can burn through the paint...
Click to expand...
:iagree:
 
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