Meguiars Ultimate Compound vs M105

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05RLS2

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For the past 3 or so years that I have been polishing, I have been using the Danase Swril Abolishers II and I (no longer available) and these have usually all I have needed to correct and are really easy to use. I've come to a point where I need something stronger to remove some tough water etchings, I believe the SA products just removed some and masked the rest. I'm not an expert polisher by any means, so I have been reading what I can about using M105. All I can say with all of the techniques and methods out there, along with the different kinds of pads use and priming methods, it casn be really intimidating. I don't really feel like experimenting and polishing my car many times to get corrected and haze free results, so I have been looking at Meguiars Ultimate Compound since it is supposed to be not as harsh than 105, yet agressive, and is supposedly easier to use with less hazing.


What kind of correction results can be done with Ultimate Compound? I am working with a newer GM vehicle which is supposeldy has a harder finish (no not a Vette either in case thiers is harder yet)

Is it faily easy to use, or actually easier to use than 105, for someone who doesn't use a 7424 on a regular basis?

After using Ultimate Compound, do I need to go to a like a step II swirl remover then go to a step I swril remover/finishing polish, or can I usually just go straight to a finishing polish?

Does it use the SMAT technology like 105?

Also, do 5.5 pads work well with it? If so, which work better the LC CCS or flats, or is it just a matter of preference? I am assuming I should use orange pads with it, right?



Like I said I am not familiar with this product, but if you feel that there is something that is easy for most anyone to get the hang of using, yet have good cutting power, let me know. I am open to suggestions. Thanks
 
I have not used UC but it is supposed to be more user-friendly with a bit less cut than 105.

A couple other ideas. The Meg's Microfiber DA polishing system is designed to give you a lot of the aggressiveness of 105 without a lot of the other problems. Also, as an alternative to UC, the new Optimum Compound (paste) is supposed to have a lot better workability than 105 with a bit less cut, and perhaps doesn't finish quite as well.
 
I'm like you basically a newbie to polishing. I have used both M105 and UC. M105 really has a big learning curve but produces great results. The first time I used it I had a lot of problems (I used way too much) but after reading a lot more about it the second time was much better. I really like the UC, it has a very long working time and wipes off much easier but it doesn't have as much cut as M105. M205 is real easy to work with just as Megs Ultimate Polish is but again less cut. They both finish down nice to a LSP ready finish. They are all SMAT products.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...anted-know-about-meguiar-s-smat-products.html
 
Just used some UC this weekend. This is the result of 1 round with UC and a Lake Country Orange

before
2011-07-15%25252015.22.52.jpg


after (you can even use it holding a baby!)
2011-07-15%25252016.00.06.jpg
 
I just posted a short instructional video about 105. let me know what you think.
 
I have used both UC and m105 quite a bit. Honestly I prefer UC, but its worth keeping a bottle of m105, may a 16oz, in your bag as well. If m105 and surbuff pads won't remove then you gotta wetsand or leave it. If you used m105 be sure to use the Kevin brown method(google it) by spray the pad water(i use onr) or add baby oil to the bottle, this equals a longer work time.

I almost always use UC. It has little to no dust. It will dust when its hot or with hot surface temperature. Still I have used it tons of times in direct sunlight and got great results, but you can only do 4-6 passses in small sections. When its cooler you can work in larger sections. What I love about UC is no dust, super long work time, its OTC and cheap, and corrects almost as well as m105. What I love about megs compound is the smat technology. the longer you work the compound works the less abrasive the product becomes so it finishes off better.

Most daily drivers I can do a 1 step with UC, ipa wipe down and wax. On nicer details or darker cars I will follow up with m205 or you can use ultimate polish.
 
From what I have read on 105, after a few passes on speed 5 or 6 on the PC, the polish works really quick and turns translucent. At this time usually meaning to check you work, and reactive with water if needed and work more.

With UC, is there a techniques work the best as far as pad priming, amount applying to the pad, and speeds, passes, and pressure on the PC? I know this can vary depending on what kind of finish is being worked on, hard or soft, but is there general rule of thub starting procedure? The thing that confuses me the most about 105 is the pad priming and amount to use, with the tons of articles out there and how tos on the detail forums showing different methods and techniques it just gets confusing.

bottlefed02 said:
Just used some UC this weekend. This is the result of 1 round with UC and a Lake Country Orange
Click to expand...
That's just with one pass, or a left to right up and down pass? Either way, impressive. What size LC pad did you use, and was it a CCS or flat? It looks like it left a lot of hazing from the pic, what did you use after to finish off with?

richy said:
I just posted a short instructional video about 105. let me know what you think.
Click to expand...
Good and informative. Wish I has rotary and a clue how to use one, someday I guess:xyxthumbs:


weavers said:
I have used both UC and m105 quite a bit. Honestly I prefer UC, but its worth keeping a bottle of m105, may a 16oz, in your bag as well. If m105 and surbuff pads won't remove then you gotta wetsand or leave it. If you used m105 be sure to use the Kevin brown method(google it) by spray the pad water(i use onr) or add baby oil to the bottle, this equals a longer work time.

I almost always use UC. It has little to no dust. It will dust when its hot or with hot surface temperature. Still I have used it tons of times in direct sunlight and got great results, but you can only do 4-6 passses in small sections. When its cooler you can work in larger sections. What I love about UC is no dust, super long work time, its OTC and cheap, and corrects almost as well as m105. What I love about megs compound is the smat technology. the longer you work the compound works the less abrasive the product becomes so it finishes off better.

Most daily drivers I can do a 1 step with UC, ipa wipe down and wax. On nicer details or darker cars I will follow up with m205 or you can use ultimate polish.
Click to expand...
Do you have to prime the pads similar to the KBM 105 method with UC by working it into the pads, or can you just apply a few drops directly to the pad? Do you need to mist the pad with ONR or water before applying UC?

Whic pads do you find to work the best with 205 on darker vehicles?
 
05RLS2 said:
Do you have to prime the pads similar to the KBM 105 method with UC by working it into the pads, or can you just apply a few drops directly to the pad? Do you need to mist the pad with ONR or water before applying UC?

Whic pads do you find to work the best with 205 on darker vehicles?
Click to expand...

I use 5.5" ultra thin hydro pads and 5.5" surbuff pads with a griots garage DA. I may prime if its hot. Its always best to prime. Sometimes I just forget and get to work without priming. I use 3 pea size drops on my pads. With UC you don' need to sprtiz the pad with water or onr. It has a long working time.

for m205 I use the hydro tangerine pad with 5-10lbs of preasure. If I am doing a high end car or if the clear coat is very soft then maybe use m205 with a wax pad so only the polish is working. I also have LC CCS fine green pad I sometimes pair with klearknote pink moose glaze. Its a glaze with a mild polish. This is my least agressive step, well maybe glaze and a wax pad...To be honest I almost never get to use this combo. I tend to do daily drivers and some bmws and mercedes. Never any lambos and few people are willing to pay for 3-5step corrections.

Either way always do some test strips. I take a few strips of tape on the hood and work least aggressive to more aggressive till I am happy with results and also work down. so one panel for m205 and tango pad. one for cyan blue and UC. if i am not happy then surbuff and UC. take a look, then try the m205 polish on that strip.

As to what pad is best. I have only tried lake country and surbuff pads. But find a system and stick with it. I have wasted money on CCS pads that I don't use. like yellow, purple wool, fine green, 6.5" gold wax pad. I like the hydro pads and they work well for me. Good technique and knowledge and experience are the keys.
 
It really depends on how you paint reacts with each polish. I keep both on hand since they both have strengths and weaknesses.

If you have paint that is on the softer side UC is great because it can pretty much act like a one step by removing most, if not all of, the swirls and leaving an LSP ready surface. It has a nice long work time, and will not dust anywhere near as much as M105. Also I have never seen it get nasty when used in the sun or a humid environment. I love M105, but it can be a pain sometimes.

I know I ##### these pictures out, but here is what UC did for me on TSX I did this year.

DSC_0056.jpg


DSC_0057.jpg


DSC_0062.jpg

As to M105 it does have a noticeably higher level of cut. If your paint is on the harder side, or you just have really bad defects M105 will probably be your best bet. It really isn't as hard to use as people say, but it does have a learning curve. I have never seen M105 finish down LSP ready, so you would have to follow it up with a medium polish like M205 or Menzerna 106fa. depending on what you are going for (total correction or just a quick one step) that may affect your choice.

All in all I think both are great products, and both have a spot on my shelf. I really don't think that you should let M105's reputation prevent you from using it. Doing a few tests on your own vehicle isn't going to somehow make all the paint fall off. Hope that helps!
 
I'll agree with what's been said already. UC is my choice for harder clears (like GM) or less expensive cars. I don't notice much diff in cut compared to 105, but then I'm using a DA not a rotary or a Flex. I suspect that makes a BIG difference. Used properly, I have not found anything that UC will not tackle. And do it very well and nearly LSP ready. In general, I like to follow up with WG Finishing Glaze (or Menz), but on less expensive rides, like my nephew's 04 Ion, I'll use Ultimate Polish. UP maybe gives a little less gloss and depth than WG, but that also may be the cheaper paint on less expensive cars.
 
IMO.. UC just leaves paint too hazy. maybe its just me idk, but on a black car with soft paint, i want to use something less aggressive than M105. UC used to be my choice, but it has never finished off to be LSP ready at all. lots of haze. so i switched to 3M for my light compounding jobs on black paint. But M105, never has left a black finish hazy at all. Maybe mike can tell me why?
 
I've used UC all summer and I so far its worked really well. I usually follow with Ultimate Polish but I could probably skip this step and it would still turn out really well. UC just doesn't leave the compounding marks like some others do, probably because of the diminishing abrasives. But I'm gonna pick up some M105 on my next order, I just want to be able to get more done faster.
 
That's just with one pass, or a left to right up and down pass? Either way, impressive. What size LC pad did you use, and was it a CCS or flat? It looks like it left a lot of hazing from the pic, what did you use after to finish off with?


It was a 5.5 inch flat pad with a flex 3401. It didn't look hazy at all in the sun or in person, I think it was my camera on my phone. I still followed it up with 205 on a black pad, because that polish is so much fun to use.
 
weavers said:
I use 5.5" ultra thin hydro pads and 5.5" surbuff pads with a griots garage DA. I may prime if its hot. Its always best to prime. Sometimes I just forget and get to work without priming. I use 3 pea size drops on my pads. With UC you don' need to sprtiz the pad with water or onr. It has a long working time.
Click to expand...
So when using the UC, to prime the pads I just put some product on the pad spread it around evenly, no misting of the pad with pad prime, ONR, or anything like that at all? So if I went ot he pea sized drop amount, do I just spread the polish around the working area before turning on the machine?


With the UC, do you just make a few higher speed 5-6 passes using pressure then check your work, and if all is ok lighten the pressure and finish at slower speeds? Or is it a good idea to make a slow pass thengo to 5-6, then back the speed down? With the SMAT products it's different than what I am used to (diminshing abrasives) so I am just trying to get a base idea on how I should start out.

How many lbs of pressure do you use with UC?

HeavyMetal said:
I'll agree with what's been said already. UC is my choice for harder clears (like GM) or less expensive cars. I don't notice much diff in cut compared to 105, but then I'm using a DA not a rotary or a Flex. I suspect that makes a BIG difference. Used properly, I have not found anything that UC will not tackle. And do it very well and nearly LSP ready. In general, I like to follow up with WG Finishing Glaze (or Menz), but on less expensive rides, like my nephew's 04 Ion, I'll use Ultimate Polish. UP maybe gives a little less gloss and depth than WG, but that also may be the cheaper paint on less expensive cars.
Click to expand...
I actually plan on working on GMs and an Ion too with the UC. What was your tehnique (speed, number of passes, and pressure) along with the pads used when using UC on your nephew's car? Also, just curious, what were some of the tougher defects on the car that UC was able to correct? Just trying to get an idea if UC will work for me.




Does the Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish contain a lot of fillers or oils in them?

As far as Ultimate Polish, does it work similar to M205, or do you you work it in until it's nearly dried and can't be seen?
 
+1 for Daves response!

Below are two of my photo's of before and after using Ultimate Compound
 
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bigaizsosexy said:
+1 for Daves response!

Below are two of my photo's of before and after using Ultimate Compound
Click to expand...
Very nice Andrew! :dblthumb2: Thats how I'm used to seeing black look after using UC. I'm sure on some super soft paints it may haze, but I've never run into trouble getting it to finish down.
 
Flannigan said:
Very nice Andrew! :dblthumb2: Thats how I'm used to seeing black look after using UC. I'm sure on some super soft paints it may haze, but I've never run into trouble getting it to finish down.
Click to expand...



Dave,
Thanks, I try my best :dblthumb2:. Yea if it doesn't finish down properly on some soft clears I will use a finishing polish such as Opt Finishing Polish :props:
 
05RLS2 said:
How many lbs of pressure do you use with UC?


I actually plan on working on GMs and an Ion too with the UC. What was your tehnique (speed, number of passes, and pressure) along with the pads used when using UC on your nephew's car? Also, just curious, what were some of the tougher defects on the car that UC was able to correct? Just trying to get an idea if UC will work for me.

Does the Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish contain a lot of fillers or oils in them?

As far as Ultimate Polish, does it work similar to M205, or do you you work it in until it's nearly dried and can't be seen?
Click to expand...

For UC: 15 - 20 lbs pressure, speed 6 on a PCXP, 6 - 8 section passes, last pass at lighter pressure (like 10 lbs) For UP: same pressure, same passes, speed 4.5 - 5 on a PCXP. No fillers or "oils"; it contains aluminum oxide, some light petroleum solvents, glycerine and water. Takes out very heavy swirls and hairlines, polished down some very nasty scratches.
 
I used M105/M205 this past weekend on a black mustang with alot of DISO's. I followed it up with some Poorboys Black Hole Glaze and Meguiars Gold Class. The polisher was a Flex 3401VRG. My wife got jealous of how I was looking at the car when I was done.
 
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