*meh* experience with old school PC 7424

vaca22

vaca22

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...and I do mean old school. I resurrected this thing for the first time in 10 years, which I purchased in 2005 or thereabouts.

I was using the machine on speed 3 or 3.5. It felt as if it would get bogged down so easily and not freely rotate. The only reason I figured this out is because I drew a couple of black lines on the backing plate so I could see what was happening. I felt as if I had to just barely float the pad on the surface in order for it to oscillate properly. I suppose this was ok on flatter panels, but on edges or creases? Forget it.

I learned some tough lessons yesterday. Firstly, I underestimated the value of proper lighting for checking work. My snow white pearl paint was EXTREMELY difficult to examine without proper lighting, which I didn't have. It hides imperfections so well, which is great, but I wasn't able to easily monitor my progress. Second, I found the PC to be on the heavier side and I am out of detail shape, so I'm really feeling the effects today.

And thirdly...is this a "slow" machine? I feel as if I needed to move this thing at such a snails pace, and it took me much longer than expected to go around the car.

It was an enjoyable day and I'm looking forward to greatly expanding my arsenal of tools and products, but I don't think the PC will cut it for me going forward.
 
If you're compounding or polishing speed 6 should give you a much better experience.
 
The last update to the PC was in 2009. This latest version is as reliable as rain. Sure it doesn't have the power of the BEAST but there are times when the right tool for the job is an 8mm short stroke random orbital polisher.

I'll always have one in my tool collection.

You would like the updated version better than the 2005 version you have. And like mentioned - you need to be on speed 6 to do any substantial paint correction.

Also - pad size and thickness are HUGE considerations. You want a 5" backing plate and thin foam pads or microfiber pads.


:buffing:
 
In addition to Mike's post, use the Lake Country "THIN" pads in 5" size. They will spin better.
 
Thanks guys, great info. I can't believe I didn't consider a higher speed.
 
I still use my PC7424XP as my mini DA and Sealant/Wax Applicator. It was my 1st DA. LOVE IT! As for reliability, it's a tank and keeps on running! I did have to repair my Flex 3401 XP (my fault from dropping it many times).

But now I use my Flex most of the time for correcting and polishing, however, I use the PC for the other stuff. Either way, If I had to use the PC for compound and polish I use speed setting 5. So far So good!

KEEP ON ROCKING!
 
The Porter Cable is honestly not a bad machine. It was my first polisher as well, I bought it from an autogeek reseller in Canada, and got a kit with the polisher, and like 6 pads or so. I bought a bunch of other LC flat pads and off I went.
My first time polishing, well, I figured I can't do worse than what the dealership did so.. off I go. You do need it on speed 6 though, and I put as much pressure on it as the rotation will allow.
 
Bummed that I didn't go higher with the speed. When I first purchased the PC back then I would polish my new car which in retrospect didn't need any correction. So I must have kept on a medium speed. I can't wait to try it again with thinner pads. I just coated the car so the remaining deeper swirls (they're not bad) will have to be locked in for now LOL
 
I’m surprised you got any rotation at that speed
 
vobro said:
I’m surprised you got any rotation at that speed
Click to expand...

I am as well.

The PC was my first machine as well. Speed 6 is the only option for any correction, and it will take longer (more passes).

That said, the PC is "The little Engine that could".

A tank of a machine as far as reliability, and a perfect entry machine for a hobbyist.

If anyone reading this just wants to remove light/medium swirls from their "Baby" or "Prized" ride, the PC is a great and affordable machine.
 
I gather other members here know what they speak of, when they say for best correction abilities, use Speed 6 if you are using a 5" Backing Plate with 5.5" Pads. If not using such, both Lake Country and Griots as well make specific Backing Plates that are compatible with the PC7424.

They likely recommend Speed 6, as the PC7424 being an older model likely has slightly less power than the newer XP Model, which you could get by if careful with Speed 5 with 5.5" Pads, particularly the 5.5 LC Thinpro Pads.

But one beauty with the Porter Cable D/A, is versatility, meaning one can also use 4" Pads, and even 3" Pads with the correct sized Backing Plates. Those Backing Plate Sizes would need to be a LC 3.5" (For 4" Pads) and the LC 3" (actually 2-7/8" diameter) for the use of 3" Pads.

With 4" Pads, these sometimes are actually easier and more efficient to use on smaller vehicles, and smaller panels than the 5.5" Pads I've found.

And what you might lose in Pad size to cover areas better, you'll actually gain better Pad rotation, and correction abilities with the smaller 4" Pads. Then you might likely find Speed 5 works just fine with the smaller 4" and 3" Pads.

And with 3" Pads, these sure come in handy in the tight areas, license plate coves, near-around Mirrors, Door Handles, Bumpers, for Headlight-Tail Light correction-polishing, near Badges-Emblems, A and B Pillars, etc.

With my own PC7424XP, I keep all such goodies in a little cheapie Wally World variety Plastic Stanley Tool Box.

In it are the PC D/A, 3 Backing Plates of the sizes I mention above, Backing Plate Wrench, and a small quantity of the small Fiber Backing Plate Washers. The Washers are a definite must have, and if you don't have spares on hand, it is wise to get some in the event one goes bad, or gets lost. All that I mention in this post are sold here.

Besides Lake Country for the various sized Pads, others such as Meguiars, Griots, and others here carry the requisite Pad sizes one can use.
 
Sterling responses to your questions. I certainly agree with higher speed and Thin Pro pads.

I still have and use my PC7336 purchased new in 1998! It's been dropped several times and , like the old Timex watch ads, keeps on ticking. Other than regular maintenance and a few brush changes it's still rockin' and rollin'.

Since my Flex gets 80-90% of the work for me now my PC7336 remains the occasional "finesse" machine on certain paints. I do use 3"-4" pads with it after changing the counterweight from OEM 6" to now 5". It vibrates a bit more easily swinging 3" pads but works great.

Speed 6, Thin Pro pads and feel the right pressure to keep it spinning and a little pressure to work the abrasives for the correction you're after.

It's kind of a forgotten machine nowadays with all the advancements available but as Mike reminds us...pick the right machine and approach for certain jobs. Sometimes it's the PC (still) for me occasionally. Plus it's my wax/sealant machine all the time.
 
Oops!!

Coming out of Costco today under cloudy skies and saw an ugly streak down the entire side of the passenger door. Looks like Ixll definitely have to redo that panel, this time on the appropriate speed.

I'm assuming that claying and polishing will get rid of the coating that wasn't leveled down, correct?

I couldn't tell without my polarized sunglasses but it really sticks out now that I've see it.

Thank you all again, I intend to practice a lot more with this old trusty machine!
 
Don't need to clay, just go ahead and polish. You can literally just use a towel and a finishing polish if you want to. Wipe a few times, and then re-coat.
 
WillSports3 said:
Don't need to clay, just go ahead and polish. You can literally just use a towel and a finishing polish if you want to. Wipe a few times, and then re-coat.
Click to expand...

I was hoping you'd say that. I literally just finished reading a post from Mike Phillips describing the same process. Going back to the importance of good lighting, I severely underestimated the need for it.
 
**UPDATE**

I did a dumb thing the other day by using Meg's plain 'ole Quick Detailer to wipe off some light debris after a rainstorm. The debris was just a little more than pollen and the like, and while I misted both the panel (in this case the trunk) and the towel itself, I felt odd inside because I assumed I was doing more harm than good. So after this wipedown I noticed plenty of micro marring. That's not to say this was caused by just this last wipe, but probably from doing it a bunch of times over the last few weeks.

So that wasn't cool, because the horizonal trunk deck is something you can easily see and it was by far worst panel on my car and it irked me that it looked so out of place.

With some free time before work yesterday I washed the car and clayed the trunk only, going back to the old PC but this time with the PROPPER speed setting. Wow, what a difference that made! After a bunch of slow passes I was easily able to see that I had removed about 90% of the defects, leaving only the deeper RIDS which for me is totally fine as I'm not looking for perfection.

So thank you all for the meaningful suggestions. My *meh* experience has turned into a much more meaningful one and I'm looking forward to using the trusty PC soon.
 
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